The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(Daily News)CFDA Award Winners

"It was just one of a night of surprises that proved fashion's in store for a youthquake. For every Brooke Shields and Gwyneth Paltrow, there was Alexa Chung, who sparkled in a demure Marc Jacobs dress, and sometimes "Gossip Girl" star Michelle Trachtenberg, in Rebecca Taylor. Even Marc Jacobs, no spring chicken, walked to the podium to accept his Womenswear Designer of the Year award to the tune of Justin Bieber's "Baby." Jason Wu, 28, had to "pinch himself" when he picked up the Swarovski Womenswear award, which honors emerging talent. Wu's best known for pulling off fashion's greatest feat - dressing Michelle Obama for the Inaugural Ball - at just 26. Of course, leave it to the Olsen twins to defy their youth and swathe themselves like monks. As 26-year-old nominee Alexander Wang put it, "I love fashion because you can't define it." Consider that this generation's motto: With an "anything goes" attitude, the new guard is ready to shake up the status quo." read more

(wwd)Wal-Mart Downplays Apparel

"Wal-Mart Stores Inc. has lots of plans for the future when it comes to international expansion, but it made one thing absolutely clear at its annual meeting here: apparel isn’t a focus. “Apparel is a small part of our business,” vice chairman Eduardo Castro-Wright said in a Q&A session with the media following the annual meeting Friday. “Sixty percent of our business is in grocery. “While apparel makes a lot of the headlines, it isn’t our [most] important business. Apparel is a work in progress,” he said, repeating a phrase he’s used several times in recent months. “I can summarize it by saying that we are going back to basics in many ways. Basics, as in business basics and basics, literally, in terms of the product itself. We do extremely well when we sell everyday needs for our customers, anything from socks and underwear to jeans and T-shirts. That’s where we excel and that’s where our value proposition can differentiate us from other retailers.” Apparel is important only “because it completes the trip,” Castro-Wright continued. “If you’re buying groceries and consumables and can pick up [soft goods], that’s the model we’re using to enrich the [product] mix and the overall basket.”  read more

(wwd)Versace Posts Loss for '09

"Hit by the slump in luxury goods and the extensive restructuring plan masterminded by chief executive officer Giangiacomo Ferraris, Gianni Versace SpA last year had operating losses of 49.6 million euros, or $59.2 million, on a 19 percent fall in sales to 268 million euros, or $320 million. Losses before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization were 2.4 million euros, or $2.7 million, in part due to a slash in Ittierre royalties. Net profit was unavailable. Currency conversions are at current exchange rates. The results confirm a forecast made by Ferraris last fall, when he also predicted flat sales this year but a return to profitability in 2011." read more

Resort Collection 2011:

DVF Resort 2011

"Diane von Furstenberg’s girl is “always ready to fly at any time” — just like Diane. So her resort collection, titled La Petite Valise, was full of lightweight, throw-on-and-go goods that drew on DVF classics — here, with a young, sporty spirit. Her signature wrap dress came as a romper; graphic prints were bigger and bolder on men’s wear shirts and boxer shorts, and striped and polka-dot swimwear went well with HotPants."

Carolina Herrera Resort 2011

"With Impressionist colors and technique in mind, Carolina Herrera delivered a resort lineup that felt perfectly apropos for the season’s early spring due date. Silhouettes such as tiered mermaid gowns and sophisticated sheaths were in tune with Herrera’s feminine, formal oeuvre, but they were rendered with a new lightness in sheer organzas and a playful parasol print done in shades of pale pink, mint green and sky blue."

Oscar De La Renta Resort 2011

"Always one for whom more is more, Oscar de la Renta included 55 ultrafeminine looks in his resort collection that left all his bases covered. For day, short tweed jackets — many done up in inventive textures — added a trim, tailored layer to skirts, frothy or fluted, while great knitwear and a refreshing chambray, denim and khaki series addressed de la Renta’s more casual constituents. And evening was a grand affair, full of full-skirted ball gowns and elegant columns."

Same store sales preview: investors brace for a chilly spending environment

Despite temperatures soaring well above 85 degrees across the country, however there's a chill and it's coming from the American consumer. In light of same store sales numbers that will be reported later this morning, analysts are estimating ( by way of Reuters) May comps will be up 2.6 percent a  mere whimper compared to March and April numbers. What gives? A lot of factors. For example, March and April's push to purchase reflected a phenom. I like to call "frugal fatigue" also known (to the economist set) as pent up demand. In addition, Easter came a week earlier compared to the previous year. Also, fears of Euro debt contagion,  BP oil spill environmental disaster, stock market volatility and unemployment numbers are causing the American consumer to spend less and save more.  The result- deparment store comps are expected to be up 0.9 percent and 1.1 percent while teen retailers are expected to take a nose dive by 2.6 percent. In light of uncertaintly, there are retailers I think will weather the storm:

1) Norstrom ( JWN)

Reasons why: Multi- channel increases of 13.9%, Nordstrom Rack highly successful for them opened 6 new stores in the last quarter and  inventory mix is STELLAR (read: perfectly merchandised jeggings, denim and DvF dresses).

2) JCrew (JCG):

Reasons why: Posted strong first quarter results, with net income doubling to more than $44.7 million and comp store sales rising 15 percent. Raised guidance for fiscal year 2010 earnings from $2.35 to $2.45 a diluted share.  Hi-fi partnerships with designers such as Belstaff, Essie nail polish, Hunter wellies, Fallon jewelry and Net-a-porter will give J.Crew fashion street cred and presence in over 170 different countries without overhead cost.

3) TJMaxx (TJX):

Reasons why:  Analysts expect comp store sales to come in at 2.7% and by the looks of store traffic from my numerous visits, assortments and inventory control they are in a good position.  Also, Carol Meyrowitz announced at the annual meeting on Wednesday TJX is rolling out another off-price retail concept set to launch in 3Q 2011. One thing to be wary of is their plan to invest almost all of thier $750 million of capital budget in Marmaxx and TJX Europe. Biut with a rise in first quarter profits of 58.4% to $331 million, euro currency fears may not have much of an effect on this retail behemoth.

4) Blue Nile (NILE):

Reasons why: According to the CEO in an interview on CNBC, net sales increased 18.7% to $74.1 million operating income grew 23.3 % to $3.6 million in the 4th quater.  In addition, international sales grew 71.4% and there is iscounting on top of sinking diamond prices compared to gold:  $NILE’s prices are 20% - 60% lower than retail because they don’t have infrastructure of the store.

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wwd)YSL Cruise 2011

“Everybody has a reference in mind because Yves Saint Laurent is so iconic. So how are you going to do it"

While in New York showing for the showing of his Yves Saint Laurent resort collection on Thursday at the French Consulate, Stefano Pilati said about the collection“For me, it’s about understanding now that [the iconic looks] are basically cult. So the answer is to take certain elements from the archives and change them.”As for his show, Pilati said the venue makes perfect sense. “Resort started for the American market,” he said. “And so, this is a sort of a mini-show in New York in a space that could breathe a bit of French history by itself. You know, a collaboration.” read/see more

(wwd)"Made in Midtown"

"In a surprising finding, an independent study of the Garment District found the neighborhood is far from dying and has a future as a productive incubator of ideas — with the right support. That was the takeaway from the much-anticipated “Made in Midtown” survey that will be released today by the nonprofit Design Trust for Public Space after six months of in-depth research and man-on-the-street conversations with a battery of sources. But what was even more surprising to the group’s executive director, Deborah Marton — and perhaps more inspirational to the scores of designers who have yet to make names for themselves — is the vibrancy that exists for start-up businesses and emerging designers.

The fact the area is an incubator of ideas — or more of “a research and development hub” as opposed to an industrial production community — was a bit of a surprise, she said. The degree to which companies of various sizes use the district in that way, especially in terms of plucking fresh talent, was another eye-opener. “Made in Midtown” determined that 846 fashion companies are headquartered in the Garment District, which is more than those based in Paris, Milan and London combined." read more

(wwd)Shorts Return to Fashion

"Retailers report they’re experiencing double-digit increases in the shorts category, and it’s not just because the weather has heated up. Shorts have become fashion items, ranging from denim cutoffs to rolled and cuffed twill shorts to belted cargoes and longer, slinky silk shorts for evening.

Bloomingdale’s, for example, is touting shorts as “the summer essential from minis to knee-length” in signage at the entrance of its contemporary department. Across the country, stores ranging from Lord & Taylor, Belk and Saks Fifth Avenue to Scoop, Olive & Bette’s and Chalk Boutique are seeing customers gravitate toward shorts in greater numbers than previous years.  “It’s one of our big pushes. We got them in early and they started off very well,” said Frank Doroff, vice chairman and general merchandise manager for ready-to-wear at Bloomingdale’s. Some of the brands doing well are Sanctuary, Buffalo and Calvin Klein Jeans, especially in twills and rayons. “The rolled cuffed shorts are working really well. They’re the hottest trend,” said Rodbell. In denim, shorts from AG and Rich & Skinny have also been strong sellers, she said. “It’s easy to wear the rolled look, and the whole military thing is anchoring it,” she said. She said L&T is also doing well with the cocktail short, “which is softer and more fluid. It’s not big volume yet, and it’s more dressed up. It’s flirtier,” she said. Some of those vendors include 860, Love 80 and BCBG. read more

On that note, The Cut recommends J. Crew's Déjeuner pair (pictured above). The silk fabric makes these evening-appropriate, while the drawstring gives them a sporty spin that’s suitable for day.-nymag

(TED)Johanna Blakley: Lessons from fashion's free culture

We are always on the lookout for great TED talks, and here is one that is relevant to the business of fashion. Johanna Blakley talks about copyright laws, how much knock off designers can get away with and whether or not we need copyright laws in fashion to protect designers and their designs.

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Long is in Short is Out, Lacoste's Lemaire at Hermes, Expensive Handbags at the Mall, J. Crew's Profits Rise and Gucci Cruise 2011.

(nyt)A Long, Lean Backlash to the Mini

Ruth La Furla of the NYT shows you how wearing the long maxi silhouette this summer can give you a whole new look and presence. "An elongated silhouette also represents a turning away from the frivolity and calculated provocation of a thigh-high skirt “toward a more austere sensibility,” said Holli Rogers, the buying director for Net-A-Porter, which highlights and sells long tanks from Helmut Lang(a side-split jersey maxi, $330), Stella McCartney (a long silk shirtdress, $1,115) and L’Agence (a cross-back jersey maxi, $200) on its Web site. “People are accepting a more muted, covered-up feeling and moving on". “There is definitely a movement to a very lengthy look, especially among the young,” said Nevena Borissova, a partner in Curve, a progressive retailer with stores in New York, Los Angeles and Miami. Ms. Borissova favors radically stretched-out skirts and dresses that “drag on the floor, with raw edges, and worn with combat boots,” she said. And as she pointed out, these myriad calf- or ankle-grazing iterations of the milelong skirt bear no relation to “Big Love” or, for that matter, the Summer of Love."read more

(AP)Gaultier exiting Hermes, Lacoste's Lemaire enters

"Jean-Paul Gaultier is leaving high-end fashion house Hermes' womenswear line, and Lacoste designer Christophe Lemaire is taking over as artistic director, the fashion company said Thursday. Gaultier will oversee the spring-summer 2011 collection to be revealed in 2010, and Lemaire will take over for the fall-winter 2011 collection, the Paris-based firm said in a statement. The move puts an end to "seven fruitful years of creative partnership" and allows Gaultier "to concentrate on his own projects," the statement said. Much tamer and preppy than his own signature line, Gaultier's collections for Hermes consistently garnered critical acclaim. "This has been a marvelous adventure which has allowed me to learn about a new 'savoir faire,'" said Gaultier. He said he'd maintain "a privileged relationship" with Hermes, which has a 45 percent stake in his own company, Jean-Paul Gaultier." read more

(wsj)These Bags Cost a Lot!

"As shoppers begin to feel the recession lifting and tiptoe back into spending, some mall stores are seeing a small window of opportunity to woo them in a new way: big-ticket handbags. Talbots Inc. will line its shelves with a $425 python-embossed shoulder bag come fall. Teenybopper Abercrombie & Fitch Co.'s megastores now stock $300-and-up bags alongside the belts and flip-flops. And Ann Taylor Stores Corp. is offering new carryall totes for as much as $298. These pricey purses—which feel particularly pricey in stores like Ann Taylor, where the average price of an item sold last year was $38—are the latest incarnation of the accessory craze, which retailers seized on last year after clothing sales plummeted. Penny-pinching shoppers who took a pass on apparel instead snapped up jewelry as a quick way to update their wardrobes. Bags, like jewelry, don't require a trip to the fitting room, and are more likely to be an impulsive, and emotionally satisfying, purchase." read more

(wwd)J. Crew Profits Rise

"Driven by greater full-price selling and differ-entiated merchandise, J. Crew Group Inc. posted strong first-quarter results, with net income more than doubling to $44.7 million and comparable-store sales rising 15 percent. With the business continuing to be on a roll, the company raised guidance for fiscal 2010 earnings to $2.35 to $2.45 a diluted share, as compared with previous guidance of $2.20 to $2.30 and fiscal 2009 earnings per share of $1.91.  Also on Thursday, J. Crew opened its first bridal store, at 769 Madison Avenue in Manhattan, and launched madewell.com. And recently, J. Crew launched a partnership with the Net-a-porter fashion Web site, giving J. Crew instant presence in 170 countries as well as some indications where the U.S. retailer might consider international expansion in the future." read more

wwd-Gucci Cruise 2011

(wwd)Gucci Cruise 2011

We love Gucci's Cruise 2011 collection which is print heavy with overdyes, tiger stripes and a Military-Rocker feel.  click to see more pictures

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Men's Spring 2011, Burton to Take Over at McQueen, Richemont Profits Fall, Theyskens New to Theory, Gaultier Leaves Hermes, AEO Profits Fall and Everyone is Over Sex and the City 2.

A Change in Seasons in Men's Suits

"For spring 2011, suit vendors are once more celebrating American heritage by featuring the khaki suit as the ultimate ensemble for the season. Look for cotton suits and separates in a multitude of khaki shades in cropped silhouettes and softly constructed blazers."

see more pictures

(wwd)Burton to Be Named Creative Director at McQueen

"Sarah Burton, the late Alexander McQueen’s trusted colleague, is set to be named creative director of the London-based fashion house, WWD has learned. Burton worked alongside McQueen on his women’s wear collection for more than a dozen years, and completed the fall collection after the designer’s suicide in February. Burton’s appointment should further solidify the future of the company. Shortly after McQueen’s death, Gucci Group vowed to keep the company open, saying the designer had set the “building blocks of a brand” that would allow the business to continue. However, Robert Polet, Gucci Group president and chief executive officer, declined to comment on any succession plan at the time."

read more

(wwd)Richemont Sales, Profits Decline in Year

"Sales and profits may have declined last year at Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA, parent of brands including Cartier and Dunhill, but Johann Rupert, Richemont’s executive chairman and chief executive officer is decidedly optimistic about the next 12 months. On Thursday, the company said profits in the year to March 31 fell 18 percent to 603 million euro, or $850 million, due chiefly to currency translation losses on net financial assets. Sales, meanwhile, fell 4.5 percent to 5.18 billion euro, or $7.3 billion, due to a decline in spending worldwide and lower inventory levels during the recession." read more

(boston.com)A genre that's out of fashion

"After more than a decade of Patricia Field-designed costumes for films and TV series, the genre has been wrung out, like the last of Samantha Jones’s delicates on wash day. Which makes the arrival of “Sex and the City 2’’ perhaps the most anticlimactic sequel of the summer, and the reason I won’t be queued up tonight to see it alongside the ladies who smell of cranberry juice, vodka, and Sarah Jessica Parker’s Lovely Moments perfume. Didn’t everyone’s dreams already come true in the first film?" read more

(wwd)Olivier Theyskens to Design for Theory

"Theory is bringing Olivier Theyskens back to fashion. Theyskens will design a women's capsule collection for the contemporary brand, which will bow for the spring-summer 2011 season. For Theyskens, one of the most revered designers, it will mark a return to fashion after stints at Rochas and Nina Ricci. Further details were unavailable at presstime." read more

(businessweek)Hermes Says Jean-Paul Gaultier to Quit Fashion House

"French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier will step down as the artistic director of Hermes International SCA’s women’s ready-to-wear unit after seven years in the role. The 58-year-old French couturier, best known for designing the cone bra worn by singer Madonna on her 1990 Blond Ambition tour, will be replaced by Christophe Lemaire, Hermes said today in a statement. The spring-summer 2011 collection to be presented in October will be the last one created by Gaultier for Hermes. Gaultier’s exit marks the end of a formal arrangement that began when Jean-Louis Dumas, former president and chief executive officer of Hermes, signed the designer up to bring new blood to the maker of luxury handbags and silk ties. Dumas died this month at the age of 72." read more

(wwd)AEO Profits Fall in First Quarter

"American Eagle Outfitters Inc. flew into pockets of turbulence in the first quarter, cutting profits in half, and said Wednesday it expects more choppy skies ahead. While heavy discounting and the cost of closing the Martin + Osa division took their toll on first-quarter results, a second-quarter earnings projection slightly below analysts’ expectations played a larger role in dropping shares of the Pittsburgh-based teen specialty retailer $2.57, or 16.7 percent, to $12.81. For the 13 weeks ended May 1, net income totaled $10.9 million, or 5 cents a share, compared with $22 million, or 11 cents, a year earlier. Stripping out charges from the closure of the 28-door Martin + Osa chain, adjusted profits amounted to 17 cents a share, matching analysts’ estimates." read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

DKNY Resort, AE Profits Fall, Cathy Horyn on Ungaro, Burberry's Profits Rise and Obama's Trade Bill With Haiti.

(wwd)DKNY Resort 2011

click to see more pictures

(wwd)American Eagle Profits Fall

"American Eagle Outfitters Inc. issued cautious guidance for the current quarter and said the closure of the Martin + Osa business weighed on first-quarter results. Net income was cut in half to $10.9 million, or 5 cents a share, compared with $22 million, or 11 cents a year ago. Excluding the charges and losses related to the shuttered Martin + Osa business, adjusted profits of 17 cents a share met Wall Street’s expectations. Citing weaker business trends, the retailer projected adjusted profits of 12 cents to 16 cents for the second quarter, falling short of the 21 cents analysts expected." read more

(nyt)Cathy Horyn's Take on Giles Deacon and Ungaro

"Ungaro may seem “a poisoned chalice,” as one of my fashion sisters in England called the Paris house, but this is an industry that dauntlessly recovers from bad taste. If my count is accurate, Giles Deacon is now the sixth ready-to-wear designer at Ungaro in the past decade (and I’m not counting the very brief and strange Lindsay Lohan episode). That’s a lot of designers trying to give a modern look to a label known for prints and a zesty femininity. Mr. Deacon is well liked and reasonably well known in England, where he started his business in 2003, and his clothes have a quirky elegance. But many young-uns have busted out since then and the world keeps changing daily. Fashion folks point to the success of Balenciaga and Balmain — very different businesses but examples nonetheless of old houses that have been re-energized." read more

(wwd)Burberry Profits Rise to $131.5 Million

"Burberry Group plc said Wednesday profits in the year to March 31 rose to 82.2 million pounds, or $131.5 million, fuelled by a 6.5 percent spike in sales and a string of cost-efficiencies. Sales rose to 1.28 billion pounds, or $2.04 billion. The fastest growing category was non-apparel, which accounted for 36 percent of revenue. “Burberry has delivered record profits in what have been very challenging markets,” said chief executive Angela Ahrendts." read more

(wwd)Obama Signs Haiti Trade Bill

"President Obama has signed into law a bill that almost triples the amount of apparel made in Haiti that can be shipped into the U.S. duty free. The bill is intended to help Haiti, the poorest country in the Western Hemisphere, rebuild after the devastating earthquake in January that disrupted the mainstay of its economy — the apparel and textile industry. The centerpiece of the legislation would increase the allowances of third-country fabric of knit and woven apparel to 200 million square meter equivalents from 70 million SMEs in each category. But it would also place sublimits of 85 million SMEs on the duty free benefits for certain high-volume knit apparel products and limits of 70 million SMEs for certain woven apparel products."read more

Sex and the City: the business that keeps on giving.

 

It's back. No, I'm not referring to my creepy ex boyfriend,  I am talking about the Sex and the City juggernut manifesting itself in the second instalment of the movie, Sex and the City 2.  A part from the welcomed spot light the movie has put on the fashion industry, the brand itself has generated millions of dollars for industries a lot less glamourous like tech, travel, beverages, automobiles, heck even internet web sites (Rent-a-bag web site Bag, Borrow, Steal got a significant lift in biz when Jennifer Hudson proclaimed her Louis Vuitton was NOT owned but RENTED). Vanity Fair created an extensive and complete list of product placement goers from the first movie, which included designer names like Dior, Ferragamo, DvF, and Hermes, techie names such as Apple, iPhone, Dell and Sprint and in the "Sips and Snacks" department, Starbucks, Pelligrino, Pret-a-Manger and Cup of Noodles, all to tune of $100 million and this isn't including the total worldwide film and DVD gross which tops close $420 million.

New Line Cinema hasn't confirmed the tie in deal they had with Apple for the last movie is officially severed,  but from the looks of it Hewlett Packard is stepping up with brand extension insanity (private screenings for bloggers to SJP with her own HP ad and who knows what's to come in the movie since I haven't seen it), as well as Mercedes Benz and probably an airline company given the foursome are traveling to Abu Dhabi by way of Morocco. And how much has HBO made from the "Sex and the City" frenzy? While they wouldn't disclose the exact figure, HBO claims they have made "hundreds of millions of dollars" from the subscribers garnered from the show, to DVD sales and the sale of  syndication rights to TBS for $750,000 per episode. And let's not forget the SATC Martini Shaker for $29.99. the "Miranda" Martini Glass for $14.99 or the SATC garment bag  for $29.99 that are selling out in the NYC store and online.  You hear that sound? That would be Candace Bushnell hitting her head against the wall (cosmo in hand) for selling the rights to SATC to HBO for a mere six figures in the early 90s. Hindsight's always 20/20, peeps.

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Giles Deacon at Ungaro, Lindsey Lohan's New Accessory, New Projects at LV, Textile Import Fraud, PVH Corp. and Tommy Hilfiger, Fashion on the Tennis Court.

Giles Deacon for Ungaro

(nymag)Emanuel Ungaro Hires Giles Deacon to Design

We are really hoping that after struggling for years with it's so-so Creative Directors and designers, Ungaro has FINALLY made a good decision. "With the housekeeping finally complete and Lindsay Lohan and Estrella Archs tossed out like cigarette-burned leggings, Emanuel Ungaro has finally appointed a new designer: Giles Deacon. The designer — a designer first and foremost by profession, it must be noted — will stage a presentation at Paris Fashion Week in October, and probably another presentation for the following Fashion Week in March. He wants to really get his feet wet before hitting the runway — no slapdash "I wasn’t aware of the nipple tassels on the girls until they were walking out" kinds of collections." read more

(cbs)SCRAM Bracelet: Lindsay Lohan's Newest Court Ordered Fashion Statement

What the heck is a "SCRAM" bracelet?

"Simply put, it's "Secure Continuous Remote Alcohol Monitoring" or an alcohol monitoring device, like the one Lohan wore after her arrest on a DUI charge in 2007. The actress has been on probation since August 2007 after pleading guilty to misdemeanor drug charges and no contest to three driving charges. A judge ordered her to wear one today after her appearance in a Los Angeles courtroom over a missed probation hearing. You might recall she claimed she was stuck in Cannes after her passport was stolen last week." read more

(wwd)Yves Carcelle Talks Retail Projects for Louis Vuitton

When asked by WWD in an interview on Tuesday, "what is the company’s bigger priority this year, opening stores or optimizing business in the existing stores?",  Yves Carcelle, CEO say's both. "It was clear there was a period when we needed to cover the planet as quickly as possible. I would say that in the last 10 years we really needed to conquer new countries where luxury was appearing. The desire for luxury design had become a worldwide desire. I think today we have already covered [the globe] quite well, but that doesn’t mean we don’t have new countries in our plan. This year, we opened our first stores in Lebanon, Poland and the Dominican Republic — that makes three new countries this year. We will open in three new cities in China — Nanning, Hohhot and Fuzhou — and some second stores in Chinese cities." read more of the interview

(wwd)Congress Seeks Tougher Policing of Textile Import Fraud

"Congress will consider legislation to crack down on textile import fraud, which is battering the weakened domestic industry. Yarn spinners and denim fabric makers said they have suffered major damage from the increasing illegal activity that undercuts their $10.2 billion export business to Central America, Mexico and four Andean countries, all of which have duty preferences with the U.S... The Textile Enforcement and Security Act, sponsored by Reps. John Spratt (D., S.C.), Howard Coble (R., N.C.), Larry Kissell (D., N.C.) and Walter Jones (R., N.C.), is intended to close enforcement loopholes by placing additional Customs inspectors in Central America and Mexico, expanding penalties to more firms in the supply chain, decreasing the use of “blanket” affidavits that certify all imported products comply with U.S. rules and starting a verification system to track yarn and fabric in regions that have free trade agreements with the U.S." read more

(wwd)Hilfiger Buy Weighs on PVH in Qtr.

Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. said Monday that it posted a first-quarter loss, hurt in part by expenses from the $3 billion purchase of Tommy Hilfiger and hedges to cover a portion of that euro-denominated acquisition. For the three months ended May 2, the net loss was $27.6 million, or 53 cents a diluted share, versus net income of $24.7 million, or 48 cents, in the year-ago quarter. Eliminating over $100 million in onetime costs related to the Hilfiger acquisition, earnings per share rose to positive territory, coming in at 83 cents, 4 cents higher than the consensus estimate of 79 cents. The Hilfiger transaction, in tandem with the earlier purchase of Calvin Klein, created a global powerhouse with two of the most recognized designer brands. “This extended brand portfolio and operating platform creates unique growth opportunities across additional geographies and product categories, which we are positioned to capitalize upon to drive future revenue and earnings growth as well as strong returns to our stockholders." read more

(washington post)Williams Sisters Turn Heads with Fashion at the French Open

Fashionable tennis wear? I'm not quite sure the Williams sisters have it down yet... Here are some pictures of their most recent fashions on the court... what do you think?

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Velvet for Uniqlo

(wwd)Uniqlo in Tie-Up With Velvet Brand

"Set to hit Uniqlo’s 950 stores worldwide on June 17, the new venture, dubbed Uniqlo + Velvet, offers 14 jersey styles retailing from $15.90 to $19.90. Jenny Graham and Toni Spencer, the co-creative directors at Velvet, created four separate mini collections inspired by the Southern California lifestyle to appeal to Uniqlo’s diverse customer base. A group dubbed Hollywood Roosevelt features a black sleeveless top with a draped neckline and other slinky rayon pieces that can be worn on a night out, while a set called Venice Beach uses heather gray jersey in a racer-back tank dress accentuated with cotton voile. A cropped harem pant in gray cotton slub comes from a daytime-oriented batch called Point Dume, and lightweight Supima cotton is used for a cap-sleeve tunic in a set named Rodeo Drive." read more

(wwd)Halston's Night Owls: Brand Unveils Men's Lines

"The company unveiled looks from its two Halston men’s lines in an exclusive to WWD, and the iconic American designer’s own personal style (and love of nightlife) clearly made a deep impression." read more

(nyt)Rise and Shine | The Swarovski Award for Emerging Fashion Talent

"The CFDA awards are American fashion’s night to shine — this year, quite literally. Swarovski, the Austrian crystal juggernaut, has been a sponsor of the so-called fashion Oscars for almost a decade. But for the first time, the emerging talents nominated in the categories of menswear, womenswear and accessories have been asked to make a special piece for the evening incorporating Swarovski material. Most of the CFDA nominees — like the jewelry designer Dana Lorenz and the womenswear designers Joseph Altuzarra, Prabal Gurung and Alexander Wang (who bagged the women’s category last year and is currently up for accessories) are no strangers to the sparkly stuff, having worked with Swarovski in seasons past." read more

(wwd)Penney's Expects Claiborne Sales to Double

"J.C. Penney Co. Inc. thinks its designation as the exclusive retailer of Liz Claiborne merchandise could double its Claiborne business. Speaking after the annual meeting of shareholders at Penney’s headquarters here Friday, Myron E. “Mike” Ullman 3rd, chairman and chief executive officer, told WWD that within five years after its introduction at the firm’s stores this fall, Liz Claiborne could reap double the sales of Liz & Co., Penney’s top national brand. He declined to reveal Liz & Co.’s volume." read more

(wwd)Tahari Names Three Executives

"To better serve the U.S. and global expansion, the company tapped Patricia Williamson as president of international sales. In the new post, Williamson will spearhead Tahari’s international sales for women’s and men’s wear as well as accessories. Most recently, Williamson was senior vice president and managing director of international at Collective Brands Inc., and prior to that, president of international alliances at Liz Claiborne Inc.

Tahari also named Dennis Wootten vice president of footwear and handbags, succeeding Joseph Campbell, who left the company to pursue other interests. Wootten joined from Prada USA, where he spent the past nine years, most recently as vice president of footwear. At Tahari, he will manage the shoe and handbag sales accounts and report directly to Helaine Elias, president of wholesale and merchandising.

The company also hired Jonathan Bergman as sales manager for the men’s line. Before joining Tahari in this newly created role, Bergman was director of sales for K-Swiss USA’s apparel division, and before that, a senior account executive at Hugo Boss. He reports to Elias." read more

Ann Taylor Loft

(wwd)Ann Taylor Returns to Black

"AnnTaylor Stores Corp., propelled by strong response to spring fashions selling at full price, swung into the black for the first quarter and said the momentum is continuing.  On Friday, the company posted a $22.6 million net profit for the first quarter ended May 1 compared with a loss of $2.3 million in the year-ago period. The report followed the pattern seen in companies from Gap Inc. to Saks Inc., Macy’s Inc. to Target Corp. Many retailers have posted stellar first quarters, fueling perceptions of pent-up demand and better feelings among consumers about the economy, after last year’s debacle." read more

WASP's not dead: Kate Spade makes preppy chic again

Years ago (oh, I would say about twelve years to be exact) I got my first Kate Spade bag. It was a black square tote and took me two and half months of intern pay to scrape together the cash for it. But omg, I will never forget the feeling of throwing my books, wallet, flip flops, snacks, scarf, sunglasses with room for so much more over my shoulder and whizzing around New York City. I felt so... NYC.

Cut to May of 2010, when in to the Kate Spade 5th Ave store for a random visit. I wouldn't describe my style to be anything but rocker profesh (skull jewelry, dark nail polish, rivited boots and skinny jeans all have permanent places in my closet), but somehow this Connecticut preppy WASP chic drew me in like a magpie to shiny things. Hello bedazzled, jewel encrusted shift dress! %$^&*(! flats with brightly colored pom poms! AND wow, am I really drooling over this 1960s (early) style lucite bead necklace?? I felt like I was an intern again. In a good way.

A couple of weeks ago I met with Bill McComb, president and ceo of Liz Claiborne. As he showed me and a colleague how LIZ was at one point just a bunch of brand silos and now (under his direction) departments finally talk to each other, I finally grasped what the company was trying to do with their brands. Cut to The 1Q earnings call on May 10th where McComb pointed out how Kate Spade along with Lucky Brand Jeans, MEXX and Juicy Couture have been seeing continued momentum with Kate Spade and Lucky Brand Jeans reporting positive retail comps. McComb expects this momentum to continue into 2Q.

What's helped the Kate Spade brand so much? Definitely the re-design of the flagship store on 5th Ave. (the stripes on the front of the store were design overkill), but credit really belongs to Deborah Lloyd who took over as creative director and co- president when Kate and Andy Spade left in 2007. No more wicker blah handbags. So long brightly colored no shape skirts and dresses. The iconic tote which made Kate Spade a household name and staple for all counterfeit stands in Chinatown? Gone. Instead the store as well as the products exude a WASP/ prep lifestyle that in the past I would have sprinted far away from, now taps into my whole Jackie O obsession. According to McComb, "the Kate Spade customer is well defined. She knows exactly who she is and how her clothes represent those ideals." If those ideals mean I can pretend I vacation in Newport, Rhode Island, attended Miss Porters and have a politico husband who went to Harvard, when I throw on a dress I'll for sure take it!

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

American Apparel Struggles, Target's Profits Rise, Designers and Digital Prints, Lucky's new CEO and A Tour of The CFDA Incubator

(wwd)American Apparel Facing New Credit Crisis

"Shares of the Los Angeles-based retailer fell more than 40 percent Wednesday after it said it does not expect to be in compliance with a covenant covering debt to adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization under a credit agreement with Lion Capital as of June 30. The firm based the projection on “existing trends” and results for the first quarter ended March 31.  London-based Lion provided American Apparel with $80 million in financing in March 2009, allowing it to pay off a $51 million loan from SOF Investment, an arm of computer tycoon Michael S. Dell’s MSD Investments. American Apparel said it is working with the lender to amend the agreement, but could provide “no assurances” it would obtain appropriate amendments prior to the anticipated covenant default."  read more

(wsj)Are You Wearing a Watercolor?

"Presenting high fashion—now brought to you by inkjet printer. The stores and runways this spring are full of clothes with intricate prints—not just flowers but unique, often enigmatic designs resembling artwork. Behind this profusion of patterns is a familiar piece of technology: a printer not unlike the one sitting on your desk." We love that designers can take inspiration and images directly from nature and with digital technology,  instantly turn it into the most beautiful printed fabric.  read more

(wwd)Target 1st-Qtr. Profits Gain 28.5%

"Customers “are putting well-considered discretionary items back in their baskets,” said Kathryn Tesija, executive vice president of merchandising. “They are indulging while feeling smart in their decisions. We’re seeing this trend particularly in home and apparel. Both men and women are freshening up their casual wardrobes and picking up new shoes and accessories for spring.” For the quarter ended May 1, Minneapolis-based Target reported net income of $671 million, compared with $522 million in the same year-ago quarter." read more

(wwd)New Lucky Brand CEO Seeks Sharper Focus

"Four months after joining Lucky, DeMattei is applying his 25 years of retail experience gained at Williams-Sonoma, J. Crew, Gap and Banana Republic to turn Lucky around. His first order of business is to entice shoppers with snazzy display windows that show off jeans selling for less than $119. Second, he plans to do more direct marketing to the 500,000 customers in Lucky’s database with e-mail blasts and catalogues. Third, all Lucky stores will begin using a new computerized replenishment system that will help them restock popular styles more quickly. Last, and perhaps most important, he plans to focus intensely on product and merchandise management. DeMattei is reducing the number of graphic T-shirts, increasing the number of women’s styles by 30 percent and expanding offerings for woven tops, sweaters, dresses, skirts and jackets." read more

(wwd/style.com)CFDA Fashion Incubator Is Ready to Go

"The incubator was launched by the Council of Fashion Designers of America with Mayor Michael Bloomberg in partnership with Newmark Holdings and the New York City Economic Development Corp. The initiative consists of a full floor at 209 West 38th Street, where 12 up-and-coming designers have taken two-year leases for studios at rents from $1,000 to $2,000 — far below the market rate for space so centrally located in the Garment District. It also provides mentorship from industry professionals." read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Jil Sander's Navy, Limelight Marketplace, Nordstrom and Target Grow, Price of Cotton Increasing, Polo and Target Report Strong Quarter

(wwd) Jil Sander Navy Spring 2011

"Prints, color and California are not words typically associated with Jil Sander, a collection anchored in strict devotion to minimalism and precision cuts. Yet those concepts unite in Jil Sander Navy, Raf Simons’ new casual collection that the Milan-based company is launching for spring 2011." see more

(wsj) Cotton Tale: Apparel Prices Set to Rise

"After a decade of deflation, the cost of producing apparel is on the rise. Prices for cotton are up about 55% from a year earlier. "We are facing a very serious problem in terms of increased cotton prices,"Abercrombie & Fitch Co. Chief Executive Michael Jeffries said Tuesday. The increases are making it harder for the high-priced teen retailer to restore margins already eroded by steep markdowns and depressed sales."

read more

(wwd) Polo, Target Beat on Gains

"Better apparel sales helped both Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. and Target Corp. come in ahead of Wall Street expectations Wednesday. Polo’s net more than doubled in its fourth quarter to $114.1 million, or $1.13 a share, from $44.5 million, or 44 cents a share, in 2009. Target grew its first quarter bottom line by 28.6 percent to $671 million, or 90 cents a diluted share, from $522 million, or 69 cents a share, a year ago." read more

(nyt)Limelight Marketplace

It was an Episcopalian place of worship, then a drug rehab center, briefly a nightclub, and now a pricey specialty  marketplace in the heart of Chelsea. There are a range of shops, everything from a bakery to an antique store, including a shop for dog bone shaped cookies for your 6 inch teacup poodle. The maze of shops will keep you looking for hours, but we do have to agree, the black and white theme is vertigo inducing!       read more

Gap and Nordstrom talk Growth

"Coming out of the recession, Gap has no debt, $2.3 billion in cash, a clearer grasp of what apparel customers want in the lean economy, remodeled and relocated U.S. and Canadian stores, and online sales in Canada poised to launch, Murphy said."

“As consumers sit on the sidelines, we have to give them a reason to part with their dollars,” said Nordstrom. “This forced us to evolve our product offering. We continue to see improvement with bringing in fresh new product every day."  Reflecting on recent improvements in the business — such as the 43.2 percent increase in first-quarter profit reported last week and the 10 percent improvement in 2009 earnings — Nordstrom said, “It’s a lot better to be here today than it was a year ago.”” read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Yes the cheat sheet is going out a little late today (only because we have that pesky thing called college graduation throwing a wrench in everything- just kidding Megs VERY proud of you), but better late than never right? Besides, nothing makes me more happy than reading fashion news headlines on a Monday morning-- it's like the beginning of a whole new drama called "welcome to work." I love it.

What goes up, must come down. H&M profits fall in April. We knew this was inevitably going to happen. H&M the world's third largest fashion chain saw same store sales drop by 6%, which was better than what analysts had expected at 7.7% in stores opened longer than a year. (Wall Street Journal)

Bump up the Jam. The show, Jersey Shore has risen to new heights and I'm not taking about ratings or the size of those steroid induced guns those overly tanned guys show off on the show. the "Snooki Pouf" is now manifesting itself on the runways of Paris where Nina Ricci, Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld featured the half up/half down 'do on the runways in March and Tina Fey in "Date Night" (a movie I JUST saw) also rocked a messy version of it. Isn't it true that if something happens in threes it's a trend? (NY Post)

Shanghai sets the stage for luxury. It's no joke- China is literally taking over the world ESPECIALLY when it comes to luxury items. The growing wealthy class have an insatiable appetite for all things luxe and designers as well as other luxury goods brands are positioning themselves to reap the benefits. For example, John Galiano decided to show his resort collection in Shangahai over the weekend because, “[China is an] emerging market and a big player in the field and very thirsty to understand couture, craftsmanship and the savoir faire Français.” Well said, G-Rock. (WWD).

"Oh, oops. Is this the party I so rudely snagged you away from?" I didn't ask this question, but was certainly thinking it when I saw this post on style.com's blog. I realized this was THE SAME PARTY (Amy Sacco's annual Free Arts NYC benefit auction) my Someone Awesome was attending when I demanded he come over with a pint of Ben and Jerry's and listen to me kvetch about how crap my life is. PS, don't you think everyone's allowed one day of self loathing? PPS, how great is S.A. for ditching this party and coming to my rescue? A true knight in shining Adidas indeed. Yay. (www.style.com)

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(NBC) Express Goes Public with Lunchtime Fashion Show in Wall Street

"Express went public today, and to celebrate 30 years in the biz, models rang the bell at the NYSE and this afternoon, they'll host a fashion show on Wall Street itself. Headliners Alek Wek, Isabel Goulart and Flavia de Oliveira will lead the catwalk down the main thoroughfare of the financial district at 12:30pm, before taking to the streets with "mystery" gift cards loaded with up to $75 -- according to Modelinia, there'll be thousands up for grabs."

(WWD) Zac Posen May Show in Paris

"The designer told a visitor to his showroom Tuesday that he will show his spring 2011 ready-to-wear collection in Paris where, he said, “they understand my clothes.” Posen cited as an additional reason for the move his inability to secure his preferred time slot during New York Fashion Week."

(WWD) Nordstrom Earnings Up in First Quarter

"Reporting after the markets closed Thursday, the high-end retailer said first-quarter earnings for the period ended May 1 jumped to $116 million, from $81 million.Sales rose 16.6 percent to $1.99 billion from $1.71 billion, while same-store sales rose 13.7 percent."

(WSJ) At Gap, Two Brands on Mend, One to Go

"While Gap Inc.'s Old Navy and Banana Republic divisions are showing signs of life, the Gap brand itself continues to struggle with styles that consumers find easy to ignore.This week, Gap is expected to post its first quarterly same-store sales rose in more than five years—the first of Mr. Robinson's tenure. But a rise, for the quarter ended May 1, would come with the caveat that last year's quarter was especially bad. The question is whether Mr. Robinson can build on the gains and convince people inside and outside the company that a turnaround is under way."

(WWD) Urban Outfitters Profits Leap

"Urban Outfitters, which operates the Anthropologie, Free People, Leifsdottir, Terrain and Urban Outfitters brands, on Thursday reported record first-quarter earnings of $53 million. Net income was 31 cents a diluted share, a 72 percent increase over last year’s 18 cents, when earnings totaled $31 million. Glen Senk, chief executive officer of Urban Outfitters Inc., said  “We achieved record sales and earnings, but to do so within the greater context of our longer-term goals of investing in store productivity, e-commerce penetration, international expansion and new brands, is even more satisfying.""

Retail Sector: On Road to Recovery?

Retail Sector: On Road to Recovery?

YES we are in the midst of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week FW10 prep BUT that doesn't mean the retail sector or the economy comes to a standstill. On Thursday I was on CNBC to talk about same store sales and whether or not the positive upswing was an indication the economy is recovering. My verdict: definitely not. January is typically the easiest month when it comes to comps and if you are doing a year over year comparison, most retailers reported horrible numbers this time last year therefore any positive numbers being reported will of course seem amazing. Also, retailers notoriously targeted the bottom line over the past months which means stores were closed, jobs were cut and inventories were slashed. This contributed to the incredible turnaround companies like Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) and Saks Fifth Ave (SAKS) experienced. Consumer spending has a direct correlation to jobless claims and the unemployment rate. Once both of those numbers come down significantly, we will see substantial numbers for these retailers. To check out the video click here.

Wal-Mart Reorganizes, Strikes Deal With Li & Fung

Wal-Mart Reorganizes, Strikes Deal With Li & Fung:

Interesting… let’s see if Wal-Mart will be able to get it  right this time. But with a partnership with Li & Fung I have a feeling they will.

J. Mendel: accessories

I've talked a lot about the dresses and how this company is doing over all, BUT I didn't point out the incredible accessories which adorned the models. Check out these dazzlers:

GOD this is my kind of necklace! What I love most- you can wear it with a gorgeous gown (pictured here) or with a pair of jeans and a t-shirt!

Again- wearable art! Just awesome.

J. Mendel: a few of my favorite things

Five things I LOVE about MB fashion week:1) The big post summer reunion with all of my fashion friends 2) Wearing all of my new fall clothes (MB Fashion Week = back to school for fashion peeps) 3) Spending so much time in Bryant Park 4) Watching the new assistants throw around 'tude to make themselves seem more important 5) THE J. MENDEL PRESENTATION

Yes, Giles Mendel creates pieces that are unbelievebly out of my budget (an average dress costs upwards of $1500- fur coats starting price $5000), but what I love most about this brand is that it does not deviate from their core audience- wealthy women (read: NOT ME) who, despite a horrible recession and cutting back still indulge in a little slice of luxury. What I love even more is this brand has turned a profit (sales up 20%) over the last year while most luxury companies are experiencing sinking revenues. Also the CEO is amazing. Susan Sokol is the former president of Vera Wang, a cancer survivor and all around power woman.

This picture does not do this dress justice- WAY more gorgeous in person!

The signature J. Mendel fur.

I love the back of this dress.

The front of the dress is incredible too!

More gorgeous floor length gowns.

Cocktail dresses!!

This is wearable art.

Rachel Roy- more wearable looks

This look makes me happy.

So does this one. Most of Rachel's pieces sell in stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. (*Note NMGA's same store sales were down by 27.3 % in July. I know- Yikes.)

On Fox News Radio this morning!

Will be talking about how negociate your way into a good deal on the radio this morning. Here is a list of stations (more may be added, please check my twitter for any updates). Everyone tune in!! KCOL Fort Collins, CO 0905AM ET   WDUN Gainesville, GA 0920AM ET   KOGO San Diego, CA 0940AM ET   KFBK Sacramento, CA 1038AM ET