Fashion week

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wwd)Chinese Textile Industry Warns of Bankruptcies

"China’s textile industry could face serious repercussions if the value of the yuan appreciates 5 percent against the dollar, state media reported Tuesday. China National Textile & Apparel Council vice president Gao Yong told the China Daily that a 5 percent currency appreciation could cause half of the country’s textile companies to go bankrupt. He said the bankruptcies would be spurred by the industry’s thin profit margins of around 3 to 5 percent. The textile industry output in 2009 accounted for just more than 11 percent of China’s gross domestic product, a Ministry of Commerce report said. The Chinese government conducted a yuan stress test in March that indicated textile manufacturers’ profit margins would decline 1 percent if the currency appreciates by 1 percent, according to the newspaper. China’s central bank announced last month it would allow greater flexibility in the value of the yuan against the dollar, amid pressure from the U.S. and other trading partners. The People’s Bank of China did not say how far the currency might fluctuate. Analysts told state media that textile industry profit margins already have been affected by rising raw material and labor costs, together with an appreciating yuan, which rose 21 percent against the dollar from 2005 to 2008. Zhang Bin, an analyst with Sinolink Securities, said textile products have become more expensive, resulting in diminishing price advantages compared with Vietnam, Indonesia and other Southeast Asian countries. China’s textile manufacturers could further be squeezed by rising labor costs, Zhang said. Demands from factory workers for higher wages have become a central focus around the country after a spate of suicides at Foxconn Technology, a hardware producer in the southern city of Shenzhen." read more

(bloomberg)Polo, Hugo Boss, Hermes-Linked Fashion Notes Sold By Vontobel

"Vontobel Holding AG, a Swiss private bank, is marketing structured notes that track the stocks of fashion companies including Hugo Boss AG, Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. and Hermes International SCA. The two-year note is aimed at private banks and asset managers, according to Georg Vonwattenwyl, Vontobel’s Zurich- based head of financial products distribution. The bank will issue as much as 20 million euros ($25 million) of the notes, which start trading July 16 on the SIX Swiss Exchange Ltd. and Germany’s Stuttgart and Frankfurt bourses. Luxury goods companies in Europe are expected to post sales growth of 7 percent on average this year, after slumping 6.6 percent in 2009, according to a Vontobel report. Fashion companies returned about 50 percent last year, according to the Swiss bank, almost double the 27 percent gain in the MSCI Europe Index of 461 stocks. “We have seen some interest in the fashion story this year,” Vonwattenwyl said. “The global development of wealth and the demand for luxury products, particularly in Asia, should benefit these stocks in the future.” Vontobel’s notes will return to investors any gain or loss on the basket of 11 stocks that also includes Bulgari SpA, Burberry Group Plc, Coach Inc., Cie Financiere Richemont SA, Louis Vitton Moet Hennessy SA, Swatch Group AG, Tiffany & Co. and Tod’s SpA. The Swiss bank issued similar notes in 2004 that earned 20.3 percent for buyers that held them for all of their 18-month term." read more

(wwd)J. Crew Names Jenna Lyons President

Jenna Lyons was named Tuesday as president of J. Crew Group Inc. after the resignation of Tracy Gardner, president of retail and direct channels. Lyons will retain her responsibilities as executive creative director. Gardner is leaving the company effective Sept. 13. “This is nothing other than an important personal decision” for Gardner, said Millard “Mickey” Drexler, chairman and chief executive officer, adding that she wants to “spend more time with her children.” Drexler, who worked with Gardner for almost 20 years at J. Crew and their former employer, Gap Inc., described her as “a great merchant, business partner and human being. But we have a really strong team and there are people in place to step up and take on more responsibility.” Drexler said J. Crew will spread Gardner’s duties among executives. Libby Wadle, who had overseen the factory outlets, will become executive vice president of retail and factory. Charlie Phillips, senior vice president of men’s and women’s retail merchandising, now will serve as senior vice president of factory and men’s retail merchandising. Renee Brantjes will continue as vice president of women’s retail merchandising. Merchandise production responsibilities will be under James Scully, chief administrative officer and chief financial officer. Trish Donnelly will continue as executive vice president of the direct channel, and Laura Willensky will remain as senior vice president of the Madewell retail channel. The last person to hold the president’s position at J. Crew was Jeff Pfeifle, a close associate of Drexler, who left the company two years ago. “The team at J. Crew has considerable depth, and I am…confident in our ability to achieve a seamless transition,” Drexler said read more

(myfashionplate)Stella McCartney To Design Olympic Sportswear

"Stella McCartney is one of the UK’s most successful fashion designers and has previously collaborated with the likes of H&M on accessible ranges for those of us who can’t afford designer price tags in our virtual closet organizer. But now the daughter of the former Beatles legend has been appointed as the creative director of Adidas’ 2012 Olympic Team GB ranges. Of course, this is not the first time McCartney has worked with the sports brand, as she designed a performance collection back in 1995. "As a British fashion designer it is an amazing, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be creative director of Team GB as the hosting nation of the London 2012 Olympic Games," McCartney said. Plus, it is not just the athletes that will get to wear the fashionable sports gear, as there will also be a fan wear range to match. McCartney launched her own fashion house as a joint venture with Gucci Group in 2001. They may only be sports kits, but it’ll still be interesting to see what she comes up with! We’ll just have to remember to keep our eyes on our own athletes as well." read more

(wsj)French Court Kicks Google/LVMH Case Back To Appeals

The French Supreme Court Tuesday referred a previous ruling against Internet search giant Google Inc. (GOOG) back to the Court of Appeal, effectively canceling an earlier decision in favour of French luxury goods company LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA (MC.FR), which complained that searches on Google's website for its Louis Vuitton trademark generated adverts for counterfeiters and fake Louis Vuitton goods. The court, which is known in France as the Cour de Cassation, canceled a June 2006 Court of Appeals decision condemning Google to a EUR300,000 fine, and referred the case back to the appellate bench. The dispute concerns Google's AdWords business. Google, like others in the multi-billion-dollar Internet search industry, derives valuable income from enabling advertisers to tag their ads to particular search words, often famous brands. LVMH has complained that searches on Google's website for its Louis Vuitton trademark generated adverts for counterfeiters and fake Louis Vuitton goods. On March 23, the European Court of Justice ruled that Google could allow advertisers to use trademarks of brands as search keywords, but may be liable for polic

Modelinia Launch Event

Tonight (Wednesday 2/10) was Modelinia's launch event for their NYFW limited edition MODELINIA Magazine and daily Fashion Week TV. Veronica Webb and Coco Rocha, the hosts of the new show, brought some glamour to the event, and Mayor Bloomberg stopped by to remind us of the importance of why we do this crazy fashion life. Style File had the opportunity to interview Rachel Roy to see how the recession has affected her business.

Even though the U.S. unemployment rate is 9.7%, Rachel Roy stated that "we're headed out of the recession". While we agree with her statement that "you can't stop creating new ideas and new silhouettes," her affinity for Alaia and Margiela may be an unlikely dream for many hit harder by the downtrodden economy. Ah, if only all of us could make our own shoes, dresses, and jewelry, then perhaps we wouldn't look so shabby. But, then again, aren't the consumers who cannot create their own wardrobes the ones whom the industry needs the most?

Shipley and Halmos leather for FW10

While I was working on doing another Style File Report and research for my book, the rest of The Style File Group (aka Megan and Natalie) spent a few minutes with Sam from Shipley and Halmos talking about the Autumn/Winter 2010 Collection. Certain designers invite the press to see the collection and ask questions before it hits the runway. Here is Megan's (a senior at Parsons School of Design and my assistant) interview:

The Style File Group: What is the focus of this collection?
Sam:The collection is mainly about outerwear and prints. We have some chunky alpaca knit sweaters that we had made in Peru and some hand designed abstract prints throughout the collection. But our outerwear is the focus especially with leathers, lambs skin and fur coats. Fur is doing well right now, it seems to be in reaction to the past few seasons.

The Style File Group: What is your background in design?
Sam:I went to college in Colorado where I grew up and studied fine arts/painting. There I met my partner, Jeff Halmos. He has a financial background. Together years later, we wanted to develop a brand that was really involved in craft and doing what we loved, which is fashion.

The Style File Group:Did you teach yourself to design, drape and sew?
Sam:Yes, We learned as we came up with the ideas, we are mostly self-taught.

The Style File Group: Was it hard to get your brand started?
Sam:No. Not at all. Easy in fact. You just have to be very driven and devote your time to getting things accomplished. I already had a background in art. Once we got past the hurdle of backing our work financially, it came pretty naturally.

It's Fashion Week Again and We Need an Intern

It's almost here! Fashion Week is one of our busiest times of the year, so to help out and to ensure a smooth Fashion Week 2010 we are looking for an intern to help us take video and pictures at some of the shows. This is a great opportunity for a student to gain access to the tents and add to your resume! We are looking for someone who is truly dedicated, professional, great with social media, web and video! If this sounds like something you'd be interested in, send us your resume to info@hithaprabhakar.com

Hi-fi shoes: What fashion week was REALLY about

An $850 million acquisition of online retailer Zappos.com by Amazon. The Sex and the City sequel where extras are clamouring for Carrie Bradshaw's shoes. Children's footwear posting an 11.8% dollar volume in sales increase. While the retail industry in almost all areas is experiencing one of the worst economic downturns in recent history, the shoe industry in the last three months has proven to be a bright light at the end of a very dark, damp, dismal, depressing tunnel. “When the product is right and offers multiple reasons for wear, the purchases will come,” according to Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst for The NPD Group in an interview done by just-style.com.

“Consumers are showing they want footwear and are willing to show their passion on their feet rather than on their backs.”

Cohen's sentiments could not be more true considering what I saw Mercedes- Benz fashion week. While the most of the collections had buyers barely raising an eyebrow, the shoes on the runway caught everyone's attention. here are some of my favorites:

Guiseppe Zanotti Balmain leopard print

Check out these Giuseppe Zanotti for Balmain animal print boots. Yes they are priced at over $1,000 but guess what? People are buying them like crazy. Why? Because this country's mantra when it comes to spending is "where there's a will, there's a way." We'll discuss that later.

Guiseppe Zanotti Balmain zipper shoes

Another Giuseppe Zanotti for Balmain boot. Awesome right?

Guiseppe Zanotti for Balmain

These are my FAVORITE.

Guiseppe Zanotti leopard print shoes

Again, another crazy pair of shoes from Giuseppe Zanotti. What would you wear these with?

Guiseppe Zanotti cut out boots

I think Rhianna was eyeing these...

Roberto Cavalli shoes

While it's not really my thing to a) spend upwards of $300 on a pair of shoes and b) purchase anything at full retail price, these shoes were worth talking about because they are metallic. I have several pairs of metallic shoes and they are the best accessories in my closet!

J. Mendel: accessories

I've talked a lot about the dresses and how this company is doing over all, BUT I didn't point out the incredible accessories which adorned the models. Check out these dazzlers: J Mendel Accessories #2

GOD this is my kind of necklace! What I love most- you can wear it with a gorgeous gown (pictured here) or with a pair of jeans and a t-shirt!

J Mendel Accessories

Again- wearable art! Just awesome.

J. Mendel: a few of my favorite things

Five things I LOVE about MB fashion week:1) The big post summer reunion with all of my fashion friends 2) Wearing all of my new fall clothes (MB Fashion Week = back to school for fashion peeps) 3) Spending so much time in Bryant Park 4) Watching the new assistants throw around 'tude to make themselves seem more important 5) THE J. MENDEL PRESENTATION

Yes, Giles Mendel creates pieces that are unbelievebly out of my budget (an average dress costs upwards of $1500- fur coats starting price $5000), but what I love most about this brand is that it does not deviate from their core audience- wealthy women (read: NOT ME) who, despite a horrible recession and cutting back still indulge in a little slice of luxury. What I love even more is this brand has turned a profit (sales up 20%) over the last year while most luxury companies are experiencing sinking revenues. Also the CEO is amazing. Susan Sokol is the former president of Vera Wang, a cancer survivor and all around power woman.

J Mendel #4

This picture does not do this dress justice- WAY more gorgeous in person!

J Mendel #1

The signature J. Mendel fur.

J Mendel #5

I love the back of this dress.

J Mendel #7

The front of the dress is incredible too!

J Mendel #2

More gorgeous floor length gowns.

J Mendel #3

Cocktail dresses!!

J Mendel #6

This is wearable art.

2007 Fashion Week: Runway To Realway

If you already had a wee hunch the world was going to hell in a hand-basket, your suspicions would have found ample confirmation in the dark, depressing duds trotted out by designers at the Spring 2008 Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York, just concluded. If clothes can be pessimistic, these were.

"Part of the way [my] collection is constructed has to do with the post-apocalyptic world," says Yeohlee Teng, designer and creative director of the Yeohlee line. "[My] collection is about my vision of [the] future, [what clothes will look like] when the world is destroyed and we are without machines to make the clothes."

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Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Day #1: Lunch

Hitha Prabhakar @ Mercedes-Benz FashionWeek - Lunch from Hitha Prabhakar on Vimeo.

It's been an INSANE 48 hours as you can see from my previous posts. And while I could probably tell you details about all the clothes I saw down the runway, give you my opinion (btw, I not a fashion critic), I am gonna go ahead and give you an insider's look as to how we eat during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Basically whatever we can get...

Get your fash-on.

Amidst all of FashionRocks insanity, I almost forgot about fashion week. Just kidding! But seriously folks, it definitely feels like fashion week started days ago when really today was the first day. Since I was caught up making sure the Pussy Cat Dolls looked fantastic down the red carpet, Emma graciously went to Erin Fetherston for me. This is what she had to say: "Even though I was sitting behind a man with a straw fedora at the Erin Fetherston show, I still got glimpses of each outfit that was coming down the runway...hits of lime, lavender, sequins and gathered ivory skirts that looked like whip cream. I was sort of dissapointed that the man in the fedora didn't block my whole view. The collection was called, "East of the Sun and West of the Moon." It SHOULD have been called "25 going on 5." Though Fetherston is known for her designs as being feminine to the max, her Spring 2009 collection looked like it was taken from a 5 year old's closet and made into a woman's size 0.

The final dress was called "Sunset Ombre Flowing Cloud Gown" - and it looked exactly like that... but what's next? A model riding a unicorn down the runway or butterflies and bubbles flying out to the photographers at the end of catwalk? My wish to Fetherston is that she'd keep her femininity because that is what she is known for, but mature the collection so it would relate better to her audience."

Whoa Emma. Harsh but in a great way! If you were at the show, what do you YOU think??

Fashion Week in Cleveland...

OK before everyone starts to freak about "yet another fashion week in a small city," here me out.  I am in love with the little city of Cleveland. Last year I went for a weekend and it was fabulous.  The Indians were playing the gross Red Sox, the people were seriously lovely (even though their team lost), the food was great and I was actually a little sad to be coming back to New York.  With that said, I wasn't really sure what they meant by "fashion week in Cleveland" when I came across this article on cleveland.com.  This piece outlined a talk given by Megan Spagnolo, costume curator at the Western Reserve Historical Society about the history of children's clothes.  How cute, right?? Did you know the color "pink" was orginally meant for boys because red was seen as a masculine color? Did you also know boys and girls used to wear dresses? Why is Cleveland so damn wholesome?? Ooh I just want to give it a good squeeze!!

One of the numerous things I did this fashion week.

huffington_post_logo.jpg The totally awesome Jacqueline Colette Prosper wanted to get my take on fashion week. To see the entire interview click here. This is my bit: 

 You're So Pretty When You are Faithful to Me: Fashion Week

Hitha Prabhakar, fashion and retail expert via e-mail.

1) What was your favorite show so far?

My favorite show was J. Mendel. I loved it because he [Giles] stayed true to form. Everything was tasteful, luxurious and looked like it was made for some totally wealthy woman who hits galas and red carpets every night. It was almost like he was saying, "Recession? What recession?" through his collection. It was fantasy, fantastic and having the show in the Grand Ballroom at the Plaza made his point resonate that much more. Just brilliant.

2) At Tracy Reese, I saw one model trip twice, what was the worst foot fumble you saw this week?

Hmm. I guess the worst foot fumble I saw this week was at the BCBG runway show on Friday but it wasn't by a model. This woman tripped over my friends umbrella while trying to get to her seat and fell flat on her perfectly made up face. Then she proceeded to yell at my friend. I get that she was embarrassed but was it necessary to yell? I mean, c'mon!

3) What was the worst item received in a gift bag this week?

Oh man. The worst item I recieved in a gift bag were those damn "Sweetriot" dark chocolate nibs! I hate those things!! They taste bad and the are just annoying!!

It's true! No one really sleeps in New York City!

Including me during fashion week. I was just looking at my calendar in the last eight days I covered 33 shows, did 15 designer interviews, 10 celebrity interviews, had 9 outfit changes, 5 blow outs,  was quoted 4 times as a "fashion and retail expert" (only one interview made it to print), went to 3 after parties, was on TV twice and had one panic attack. Total hours slept for the past 8 days? About 24... 

Class act- Ellen Pompeo

ellen-pomeo-4.jpg 

Yesterday I was at Rag & Bone and  met Ellen Pompeo. Can I just say how so totally nice she was? She was wearing a grey shift dress with tights and was sitting next to her husband in the front row. What I liked about her is that she seemed very down to earth, didn't take fashion too seriously and seemed SO happy to be there. Really refreshing.

Fashion on crack.

As much as I love fashion I am SO HAPPY I am only covering one fashion week (that would be Mercedes Benz fashion week Feb 1st-8th). To give you an idea of the insanity other writers are going through right now covering Milan, then Paris then New York and then off to London, check out this piece about the crazy 4 day schedule everyone is enduring  right now in Milan. Amazing to see elegance is really a focus for fall menswear, but  I would literally lose my mind trying to cover all those shows in 72 hours. Thank God for style.com. !!