Want a job at Burberry? Start speaking Mandarin!

Earlier this morning, luxury retailer Burberry reported earnings that after taxes rose by 26% to $415 million. Revenues were up a staggering 24% to around $2.5 billion. What's driving the growth? Asia, baby. Burberry launched flagship stores in Hong Kong, Teipei and Paris. An intereesting sign of the times: If you walk into almost every luxury flagship store stateside, you will find at least TWO people who speak Mandarin. Why? Because SURPRISE luxury sales outside of Asia and Europe are mostly driven by Chinese tourists. Want to know something else? Burberry trench coats are still a top seller. And given all the rain we've been getting on the east coast, a trench could definitely come in handy.

(YES that's me from the Art of the Trench campaign shot by my friend Scott Schuman. I really don't look like that when I am getting out the cab.)

Is luxury back? Coach beats estimates with 2Q earnings

(A luxury obsessed consumer. Picture courtesy of Racked.com)

Coach reported better than expected profits today. Net income rose to $303.4 million, or $1 a share up from $241 million or 75 cents in 2Q of last year. Sales rose 19% to $1.26 billion and the company expects sales and profit to increase at least 10% through 2011. In addition, Coach plans to repurchase close to $1.5 billion of shares by June 30th, 2013.

With those kind of numbers it's hard not to seriously wonder if the luxury retailers are finally back. Or is it?

Mike Tucci president of Coach's North American retail division credits three main reasons for strong sales during the holiday season: product performance, digital strategy and progress on the new mens intiative. Tucci specifically notes Coach.com is the fastest growing full price channel in North America and experienced double digit growth during the holiday season. "We will continue to use digital capability as a touch point for the customers," he said on the earnings call. So what are some of the pitfalls for Coach? For one, gross margin estimates missed the street's expectations coming in at 72.4% compared to 73.2% due mostly in part by an increase in sales at their lower priced outlet stores. Second, Coach's market share in Japan continues to contract. But, with expanding market share in China (Frankfort referred to China as "our fastest growing business.") and a potential move of production to lower labor cost countries such as India, Coach may still see some bright days ahead in 2011.

Coach wasn't the only luxury retailer to report stellar earnings supported by significant growth in China. Burberry reported a 36 percent increase in sales reflecting the deal to take over 50 stores from the retailer's Chinese franchise partner. Likewise, the new "digitally enhanced" flagship store in Beijing drove significant traffic. "There is an underlying growth in the Chinese luxury sector anyway, but the main driver has been making sure our stores are properly stocked," said Stacey Cartwright, chief financial officer. "Previously, lean levels of inventory meant a lot of sales were walking out the door."

Luxury conglomerate Richemont reported a 7 percent increase in sales (omitting currency fluctuations) to $2.29 billion beating analysts estimates. The Asia-Pacific region accounted for 31 percent of Richemont's sales during the quarter.

It's difficult to ignore numbers like that especially when Consumer Confidence Index rose 7.3 points to 60.6. Feeling better about the economy mixed with a little "frugal fatigue" may be the exact combination luxury retailers need in order to have a full recovery. With that said, there is a Chloe handbag AND a pair Christian Louboutin heels that I've been eyeing for months now. 18 months to be exact.

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(babble)Maternity Fashion For Teens

Forever 21 sells affordable fashion to a mostly under-21 demographic. However, they have dabbled  Menswear, Children's wear and now... Maternity!? Perhaps we can thank MTV shows like I'm 16 and Pregnant for this for this new market. Don't get us wrong, affordable fashion is important, but we just can't help but wonder if this is a new trend we will see in the near future- teen maternity lines:

"Youth-focused trend-purveyors Forever 21 are proving the point with a new maternity wear for their (largely teenaged) customers. Some people are wondering whether a clothing line that sells primarily to teens should be doing a maternity line at all. Is selling maternity clothes to teens marketing teen pregnancy? Or are we beyond that by now? As Heather at Kidglue jokes: “If you’re a pregnant teenager, no doubt the first thought that crosses your mind is, “Darn, if only I could get my hands on some trendy and affordable maternity clothes!”  (I mean, what else could you possibly have to worry about?)” She also points out that the in-store locations are conveniently located in the states with the highest teen pregnancy rates. The Love 21 Maternity line is fashion-forward and wallet-friendly, not unlike Forever 21’s other offerings. And like their other offerings, these clothes will probably be worn by women who are well over the under-21 target audience. (Forever 35 doesn’t have quite the same ring.) read more

(wwd)Levi’s Loss Expands in Second Quarter

"Levi Strauss & Co. said its second-quarter loss widened as financing costs erased the positive effects of higher sales and margins and advantageous currency swings. For the three months ended May 30, the net loss attributable to the San Francisco-based denim and sportswear firm rose to $14.4 million from $4.1 million in the year-ago period. Included in the bottom-line result was a $16.6 million pretax loss on the early extinguishment of debt. Operating income, exclusive of the debt effect, was up 23.4 percent to $69.2 million from $56.1 million a year ago. Sales rose 8.1 percent to $958 million, versus $886.5 million in the 2009 quarter, and licensing revenue grew 3.2 percent to $18.6 million from $18 million. Total revenues moved up 8 percent to $976.5 million from $904.5 million, and gross margin rose 522 basis points to 51.1 percent of sales against 45.9 percent in the year-ago period. The company said that the improvement reflected the increased contribution of the company’s stores and their higher margins compared to wholesale operations. In the Americas, sales were up 8 percent, to $558 million, and grew 6 percent on a constant currency basis. In Europe, sales increased 9 percent, to $240 million, and gained 7 percent at constant currency. Asia-Pacific sales hit $178 million, an 8 percent rise that, upon conversion for currency effects, translated into a 2 percent decline. “We continue to invest behind the brands,” John Anderson, president and chief executive officer, said on a conference call with analysts. “We believe we have a compelling consumer proposition. We selectively look to continue to invest in retail. It’s a battle.”  He said Japan continues to detract from results in the Asia-Pacific region, but added that he was somewhat encouraged by results in Europe: “If there’s good news, it is that there is no further deterioration.” read more

(wwd)EBay Ups Fashion Game With iPhone App

"The Web site, which revolutionized e-commerce in 1995 by connecting buyers and sellers in an auction format where price was set by the convergence of supply and demand, unveiled its first fashion app for the iPhone on Thursday. The company recently introduced an iPad fashion app, and an app for the BlackBerry mobile phone is due next. The new fashion app could have major consequences for eBay and its competitors, and for consumers as well. Users will have access to the 20 million fashion items offered through eBay’s Marketplace. The app can be used to browse, virtually try on and buy products at any time of the day, anywhere the iPhone gets a signal (airplanes, yes; subways, no.) It can be downloaded for free on iTunes. EBay’s core iPhone application has been downloaded 10 million times, the company said. A measure of the iPhone app’s potential: EBay expects to more than double its $600 million gross fashion merchandise volume of last year to $1.5 billion this year. “Over the past year, we have made significant investments in dramatically enhancing the way customers shop for fashion on eBay,” said Dinesh Lathi, eBay Inc.’s vice president of North America. “[We] feel that mobile offers a great medium to continue our innovation in delivering a personalized experience and connecting our buyers with the world’s largest online selection of branded, designer and vintage clothing, shoes and accessories. It also enables our sellers, regardless of their size, to participate in mobile commerce in groundbreaking ways.” With $5.45 billion in worldwide gross merchandise volume in apparel last year, eBay is the largest seller of clothing online. Apparel is also the company’s top mobile category in terms of items sold, and the second-largest after automobiles in terms of volume. Not content with merely selling more apparel online than any other company, eBay wants to offer more exclusive fashion to its client base of more than 90 million active users. For example, eBay this year introduced exclusive capsule collections by Narciso Rodriguez and Norma Kamali. Products are listed under the headings women’s, men’s, kids, baby and vintage, with the latter organized by decade." read more

(wwd)Burberry Buys Back China Operations

"Burberry has agreed to buy back its China operations for 70 million pounds, or $107.8 million at current exchange, in cash. The company said it would acquire the stores and “related assets” in China currently operated by its longstanding franchisees. Burberry said the transaction was in line with its strategy to unify and consolidate operations worldwide, and increase its exposure to high-growth luxury markets. “With a solid foundation of 50 stores across 30 cities, operational expertise and strong brand momentum, this is an optimal time for Burberry to integrate this business,” stated chief executive Angela Ahrendts. She said Burberry planned to “drive productivity” in existing stores and to open new stores, while rapidly implementing digital marketing initiatives. The transaction is expected to add up to 20 million pounds, or $30.8 million, to group operating profit in the fiscal year 2011/12."

(fibre2fashion)IMG, Japan Fashion Week Organization Reach Deal

IMG Fashion announced that it has signed a five year agreement to partner with the Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFWO), which organises and manages Tokyo Collection Week held biannually in Tokyo. IMG Fashion will act as JFWO’s sole and exclusive representative for the exploitation of sponsorship rights. IMG Fashion will help to maximise the efficiency of a series of industry and consumer events that make up Tokyo Collection Week staged by the JFWO. JFWO has been created to strengthen the competitive power of the Japanese textile and fashion industry, and to encourage growth. It is also designed to further increase Tokyo's reputation as a significant textile and fashion hub. The event brings together manufacturers in the textile and fashion industries, fashion designers and distributors from across Japan, greater South East Asia and the world. "This is a very exciting partnership," said Mr. Peter Levy, Senior Vice President and Managing Director of IMG Fashion, Worldwide. "Tokyo Collection Week is one of the more significant fashion events held annually and has reached a stage in its lifecycle where it is capable of achieving substantial growth. Our globally connected team at IMG Fashion is ready to take on this challenge and work closely with the JFWO to realize the event’s true potential."

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wwd)Chinese Textile Industry Warns of Bankruptcies

"China’s textile industry could face serious repercussions if the value of the yuan appreciates 5 percent against the dollar, state media reported Tuesday. China National Textile & Apparel Council vice president Gao Yong told the China Daily that a 5 percent currency appreciation could cause half of the country’s textile companies to go bankrupt. He said the bankruptcies would be spurred by the industry’s thin profit margins of around 3 to 5 percent. The textile industry output in 2009 accounted for just more than 11 percent of China’s gross domestic product, a Ministry of Commerce report said. The Chinese government conducted a yuan stress test in March that indicated textile manufacturers’ profit margins would decline 1 percent if the currency appreciates by 1 percent, according to the newspaper. China’s central bank announced last month it would allow greater flexibility in the value of the yuan against the dollar, amid pressure from the U.S. and other trading partners. The People’s Bank of China did not say how far the currency might fluctuate. Analysts told state media that textile industry profit margins already have been affected by rising raw material and labor costs, together with an appreciating yuan, which rose 21 percent against the dollar from 2005 to 2008. Zhang Bin, an analyst with Sinolink Securities, said textile products have become more expensive, resulting in diminishing price advantages compared with Vietnam, Indonesia and other Southeast Asian countries. China’s textile manufacturers could further be squeezed by rising labor costs, Zhang said. Demands from factory workers for higher wages have become a central focus around the country after a spate of suicides at Foxconn Technology, a hardware producer in the southern city of Shenzhen." read more

(bloomberg)Polo, Hugo Boss, Hermes-Linked Fashion Notes Sold By Vontobel

"Vontobel Holding AG, a Swiss private bank, is marketing structured notes that track the stocks of fashion companies including Hugo Boss AG, Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. and Hermes International SCA. The two-year note is aimed at private banks and asset managers, according to Georg Vonwattenwyl, Vontobel’s Zurich- based head of financial products distribution. The bank will issue as much as 20 million euros ($25 million) of the notes, which start trading July 16 on the SIX Swiss Exchange Ltd. and Germany’s Stuttgart and Frankfurt bourses. Luxury goods companies in Europe are expected to post sales growth of 7 percent on average this year, after slumping 6.6 percent in 2009, according to a Vontobel report. Fashion companies returned about 50 percent last year, according to the Swiss bank, almost double the 27 percent gain in the MSCI Europe Index of 461 stocks. “We have seen some interest in the fashion story this year,” Vonwattenwyl said. “The global development of wealth and the demand for luxury products, particularly in Asia, should benefit these stocks in the future.” Vontobel’s notes will return to investors any gain or loss on the basket of 11 stocks that also includes Bulgari SpA, Burberry Group Plc, Coach Inc., Cie Financiere Richemont SA, Louis Vitton Moet Hennessy SA, Swatch Group AG, Tiffany & Co. and Tod’s SpA. The Swiss bank issued similar notes in 2004 that earned 20.3 percent for buyers that held them for all of their 18-month term." read more

(wwd)J. Crew Names Jenna Lyons President

Jenna Lyons was named Tuesday as president of J. Crew Group Inc. after the resignation of Tracy Gardner, president of retail and direct channels. Lyons will retain her responsibilities as executive creative director. Gardner is leaving the company effective Sept. 13. “This is nothing other than an important personal decision” for Gardner, said Millard “Mickey” Drexler, chairman and chief executive officer, adding that she wants to “spend more time with her children.” Drexler, who worked with Gardner for almost 20 years at J. Crew and their former employer, Gap Inc., described her as “a great merchant, business partner and human being. But we have a really strong team and there are people in place to step up and take on more responsibility.” Drexler said J. Crew will spread Gardner’s duties among executives. Libby Wadle, who had overseen the factory outlets, will become executive vice president of retail and factory. Charlie Phillips, senior vice president of men’s and women’s retail merchandising, now will serve as senior vice president of factory and men’s retail merchandising. Renee Brantjes will continue as vice president of women’s retail merchandising. Merchandise production responsibilities will be under James Scully, chief administrative officer and chief financial officer. Trish Donnelly will continue as executive vice president of the direct channel, and Laura Willensky will remain as senior vice president of the Madewell retail channel. The last person to hold the president’s position at J. Crew was Jeff Pfeifle, a close associate of Drexler, who left the company two years ago. “The team at J. Crew has considerable depth, and I am…confident in our ability to achieve a seamless transition,” Drexler said read more

(myfashionplate)Stella McCartney To Design Olympic Sportswear

"Stella McCartney is one of the UK’s most successful fashion designers and has previously collaborated with the likes of H&M on accessible ranges for those of us who can’t afford designer price tags in our virtual closet organizer. But now the daughter of the former Beatles legend has been appointed as the creative director of Adidas’ 2012 Olympic Team GB ranges. Of course, this is not the first time McCartney has worked with the sports brand, as she designed a performance collection back in 1995. "As a British fashion designer it is an amazing, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be creative director of Team GB as the hosting nation of the London 2012 Olympic Games," McCartney said. Plus, it is not just the athletes that will get to wear the fashionable sports gear, as there will also be a fan wear range to match. McCartney launched her own fashion house as a joint venture with Gucci Group in 2001. They may only be sports kits, but it’ll still be interesting to see what she comes up with! We’ll just have to remember to keep our eyes on our own athletes as well." read more

(wsj)French Court Kicks Google/LVMH Case Back To Appeals

The French Supreme Court Tuesday referred a previous ruling against Internet search giant Google Inc. (GOOG) back to the Court of Appeal, effectively canceling an earlier decision in favour of French luxury goods company LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA (MC.FR), which complained that searches on Google's website for its Louis Vuitton trademark generated adverts for counterfeiters and fake Louis Vuitton goods. The court, which is known in France as the Cour de Cassation, canceled a June 2006 Court of Appeals decision condemning Google to a EUR300,000 fine, and referred the case back to the appellate bench. The dispute concerns Google's AdWords business. Google, like others in the multi-billion-dollar Internet search industry, derives valuable income from enabling advertisers to tag their ads to particular search words, often famous brands. LVMH has complained that searches on Google's website for its Louis Vuitton trademark generated adverts for counterfeiters and fake Louis Vuitton goods. On March 23, the European Court of Justice ruled that Google could allow advertisers to use trademarks of brands as search keywords, but may be liable for polic

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wsj)Forever 21 Pursues Big-Store Branding

"Forever 21 Inc. is set to open a massive new store in New York's Times Square on Friday, the latest and most aggressive step in the low-priced fashion retailer's plan to expand from a clothing boutique into a department store. The privately held, Los Angeles-based company is expanding aggressively at a time when most retailers are holding back or downsizing, a move enabled in large part by the recession. Forever 21 snapped up real estate vacated by brands such as the now-bankrupt Mervyns LLC chain that were forced to downsize or close because of dwindling sales. Teens continue to swarm Forever 21's piles of inexpensive, high-fashion-imitating party dresses and tank tops. But moving into cavernous spaces, like the 90,000-square-foot spot near 46th and Broadway, is forcing the chain into new categories like menswear, children's clothing and beauty, where its hold on consumers is less certain." read more

(wwd)H&M Profits Up 24 Percent in Second Quarter

"Hennes & Mauritz AB, the world’s third-largest fashion retailer, said net profits rose 24 percent in the second quarter, but sales of its spring garments were disappointing due to unusually cold weather in most of its markets. Net profits in the three months ended May 31 amounted to 5.21 billion kronor, or $710 million, on sales of 31.6 billion kronor, or $4.3 billion. Same-store sales were down by 1 percent in the quarter. Dollar figures are converted at average exchange rates for the period. Like-for-like sales fell 4 percent in May compared with the same month last year, with the retailer reporting that unspecified calendar effects had a negative impact of 3 to 4 percentage units in the month. Including new stores, sales grew 6 percent in May and 22 percent during the period of June 1-22, it added. The Swedish high-street giant said weaker-than-expected spring sales had left it with 2 percent more stock than last year. “This could lead to a higher price reduction level in the third quarter compared to the corresponding quarter last year,” it said. Gross margin — a key measure of profitability — rose to 65.9 percent in the second quarter from 61 percent a year earlier, boosted by a weaker dollar during the purchasing period for garments sold in the quarter. “Other factors, such as greater surplus capacity at suppliers, lower transportation costs, favorable raw material prices and efficiencies in the buying process also impacted the gross margin positively in the second quarter 2010,” it said. H&M announced it would enter Croatia and Romania in 2011 with store openings in Zagreb and Bucharest in the spring. Also next year, Morocco will become a new franchise market with a store opening in Casablanca in the fall. The company said it had postponed the planned opening of a COS store in Hong Kong from fall 2010 to sometime next year."

(wwd)U.S. Retailers Push in China

"China is beckoning mainstream U.S. retailers as never before. With the country’s middle class growing fast — projected by Euromonitor to total 700 million people in 2020 — companies such as Gap Inc., American Eagle Outfitters Inc. and Bebe Stores Inc. are making their first forays into China. Others, including Guess Inc., Iconix Brand Group Inc. and Levi Strauss & Co., are enlarging their footprints. The activity comes as China has decided to let its currency appreciate gradually against a basket of currencies, including the dollar, which could — along with rising wages for Chinese workers — boost the purchasing power of its consumers and make the world’s most populous nation an even more enticing market.  The push by retail and apparel firms in China, preceded by the expansion of luxury brands, has accelerated as they seek to diversify geographically because the international economic crisis exposed the vulnerability of developed markets while China’s economy grew 8.7 percent last year."

(Independent)Madonna's Fashion Line to Hit Macy's in August

"Macy's has released the first images of popstar Madonna and her daughter Lourdes's first fashion range for the US department store, called Material Girl - due out for back-to-school season in August. Judging from the sketches, there will mainly be 1980s-inspired clothes (complete with a range of fingerless gloves), including flowery bustier dresses, star prints, and 'jeggings.' According to the press release, the new line relies on mixing unexpected items, "like a tutu dress and studded-combat boots, or an oversized boyfriend sweatshirt with a floral print mini skirt." Even though the fashion world is starting to get fed up with celebrity fashion lines, this collection is highly anticipated not just because of Madonna's star power, but also because of her successful design debut for Swedsih retailer H&M a few years back. All items, expected to cost under $40, will hit Macy's stores and its website on August 3." read more

Fashion's Night Out--Officially--Coming to L.A.!

"Cynthia Ruiz, the president of the city’s Department of Public Works—and also known as the mayor’s fashion ambassador—confirmed that the mayor’s Office of Economics & Business Policy, under the jurisdiction of Deputy Mayor Austin Buetner, has started to plan Los Angeles’ participation in the night-long shopping extravaganza. The U.S. edition of Fashion’s Night Out was created last year through a partnership between Vogue, the Council of Fashion Designers of America and N.Y.C. & Co. (New York City’s tourism site) as a global initiative to celebrate fashion and boost consumer confidence, shopping and the local economy. The F.N.O./L.A. committee will soon reveal how the city of Los Angeles is planning on translating this much-awaited night into sales, events and an opportunity for local designers to be showcased. “I love the idea of L.A.’s FNO having some of the elements that the Downtown L.A. Art Walk has been able to implement—a little something for everybody,” Commissioner Ruiz said. Last year during the inaugural launch of F.N.O. in New York, Los Angeles held a few in-store shopping events around town. Now, after the efforts of many, L.A. will officially join the lineup of Fashion’s Night Out cities, alongside New York and several other fashion capitals around the world."