Ruth La Furla of the NYT shows you how wearing the long maxi silhouette this summer can give you a whole new look and presence. "An elongated silhouette also represents a turning away from the frivolity and calculated provocation of a thigh-high skirt “toward a more austere sensibility,” said Holli Rogers, the buying director for Net-A-Porter, which highlights and sells long tanks from Helmut Lang(a side-split jersey maxi, $330), Stella McCartney (a long silk shirtdress, $1,115) and L’Agence (a cross-back jersey maxi, $200) on its Web site. “People are accepting a more muted, covered-up feeling and moving on". “There is definitely a movement to a very lengthy look, especially among the young,” said Nevena Borissova, a partner in Curve, a progressive retailer with stores in New York, Los Angeles and Miami. Ms. Borissova favors radically stretched-out skirts and dresses that “drag on the floor, with raw edges, and worn with combat boots,” she said. And as she pointed out, these myriad calf- or ankle-grazing iterations of the milelong skirt bear no relation to “Big Love” or, for that matter, the Summer of Love."read more

(AP)Gaultier exiting Hermes, Lacoste's Lemaire enters

"Jean-Paul Gaultier is leaving high-end fashion house Hermes' womenswear line, and Lacoste designer Christophe Lemaire is taking over as artistic director, the fashion company said Thursday. Gaultier will oversee the spring-summer 2011 collection to be revealed in 2010, and Lemaire will take over for the fall-winter 2011 collection, the Paris-based firm said in a statement. The move puts an end to "seven fruitful years of creative partnership" and allows Gaultier "to concentrate on his own projects," the statement said. Much tamer and preppy than his own signature line, Gaultier's collections for Hermes consistently garnered critical acclaim. "This has been a marvelous adventure which has allowed me to learn about a new 'savoir faire,'" said Gaultier. He said he'd maintain "a privileged relationship" with Hermes, which has a 45 percent stake in his own company, Jean-Paul Gaultier." read more

(wsj)These Bags Cost a Lot!

"As shoppers begin to feel the recession lifting and tiptoe back into spending, some mall stores are seeing a small window of opportunity to woo them in a new way: big-ticket handbags. Talbots Inc. will line its shelves with a $425 python-embossed shoulder bag come fall. Teenybopper Abercrombie & Fitch Co.'s megastores now stock $300-and-up bags alongside the belts and flip-flops. And Ann Taylor Stores Corp. is offering new carryall totes for as much as $298. These pricey purses—which feel particularly pricey in stores like Ann Taylor, where the average price of an item sold last year was $38—are the latest incarnation of the accessory craze, which retailers seized on last year after clothing sales plummeted. Penny-pinching shoppers who took a pass on apparel instead snapped up jewelry as a quick way to update their wardrobes. Bags, like jewelry, don't require a trip to the fitting room, and are more likely to be an impulsive, and emotionally satisfying, purchase." read more

(wwd)J. Crew Profits Rise

"Driven by greater full-price selling and differ-entiated merchandise, J. Crew Group Inc. posted strong first-quarter results, with net income more than doubling to $44.7 million and comparable-store sales rising 15 percent. With the business continuing to be on a roll, the company raised guidance for fiscal 2010 earnings to $2.35 to $2.45 a diluted share, as compared with previous guidance of $2.20 to $2.30 and fiscal 2009 earnings per share of $1.91. Also on Thursday, J. Crew opened its first bridal store, at 769 Madison Avenue in Manhattan, and launched madewell.com. And recently, J. Crew launched a partnership with the Net-a-porter fashion Web site, giving J. Crew instant presence in 170 countries as well as some indications where the U.S. retailer might consider international expansion in the future." read more

: wwd-Gucci Cruise 2011

Men's Spring 2011, Burton to Take Over at McQueen, Richemont Profits Fall, Theyskens New to Theory, Gaultier Leaves Hermes, AEO Profits Fall and Everyone is Over Sex and the City 2.

A Change in Seasons in Men's Suits

"For spring 2011, suit vendors are once more celebrating American heritage by featuring the khaki suit as the ultimate ensemble for the season. Look for cotton suits and separates in a multitude of khaki shades in cropped silhouettes and softly constructed blazers."

see more pictures

(wwd)Burton to Be Named Creative Director at McQueen

"Sarah Burton, the late Alexander McQueen’s trusted colleague, is set to be named creative director of the London-based fashion house, WWD has learned. Burton worked alongside McQueen on his women’s wear collection for more than a dozen years, and completed the fall collection after the designer’s suicide in February. Burton’s appointment should further solidify the future of the company. Shortly after McQueen’s death, Gucci Group vowed to keep the company open, saying the designer had set the “building blocks of a brand” that would allow the business to continue. However, Robert Polet, Gucci Group president and chief executive officer, declined to comment on any succession plan at the time."

(wwd)Richemont Sales, Profits Decline in Year

"Sales and profits may have declined last year at Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA, parent of brands including Cartier and Dunhill, but Johann Rupert, Richemont’s executive chairman and chief executive officer is decidedly optimistic about the next 12 months. On Thursday, the company said profits in the year to March 31 fell 18 percent to 603 million euro, or $850 million, due chiefly to currency translation losses on net financial assets. Sales, meanwhile, fell 4.5 percent to 5.18 billion euro, or $7.3 billion, due to a decline in spending worldwide and lower inventory levels during the recession." read more

(boston.com)A genre that's out of fashion

"After more than a decade of Patricia Field-designed costumes for films and TV series, the genre has been wrung out, like the last of Samantha Jones’s delicates on wash day. Which makes the arrival of “Sex and the City 2’’ perhaps the most anticlimactic sequel of the summer, and the reason I won’t be queued up tonight to see it alongside the ladies who smell of cranberry juice, vodka, and Sarah Jessica Parker’s Lovely Moments perfume. Didn’t everyone’s dreams already come true in the first film?" read more

(wwd)Olivier Theyskens to Design for Theory

"Theory is bringing Olivier Theyskens back to fashion. Theyskens will design a women's capsule collection for the contemporary brand, which will bow for the spring-summer 2011 season. For Theyskens, one of the most revered designers, it will mark a return to fashion after stints at Rochas and Nina Ricci. Further details were unavailable at presstime." read more

(businessweek)Hermes Says Jean-Paul Gaultier to Quit Fashion House

"French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier will step down as the artistic director of Hermes International SCA’s women’s ready-to-wear unit after seven years in the role. The 58-year-old French couturier, best known for designing the cone bra worn by singer Madonna on her 1990 Blond Ambition tour, will be replaced by Christophe Lemaire, Hermes said today in a statement. The spring-summer 2011 collection to be presented in October will be the last one created by Gaultier for Hermes. Gaultier’s exit marks the end of a formal arrangement that began when Jean-Louis Dumas, former president and chief executive officer of Hermes, signed the designer up to bring new blood to the maker of luxury handbags and silk ties. Dumas died this month at the age of 72." read more

(wwd)AEO Profits Fall in First Quarter

"American Eagle Outfitters Inc. flew into pockets of turbulence in the first quarter, cutting profits in half, and said Wednesday it expects more choppy skies ahead. While heavy discounting and the cost of closing the Martin + Osa division took their toll on first-quarter results, a second-quarter earnings projection slightly below analysts’ expectations played a larger role in dropping shares of the Pittsburgh-based teen specialty retailer $2.57, or 16.7 percent, to $12.81. For the 13 weeks ended May 1, net income totaled $10.9 million, or 5 cents a share, compared with $22 million, or 11 cents, a year earlier. Stripping out charges from the closure of the 28-door Martin + Osa chain, adjusted profits amounted to 17 cents a share, matching analysts’ estimates." read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Long is in Short is Out, Lacoste's Lemaire at Hermes, Expensive Handbags at the Mall, J. Crew's Profits Rise and Gucci Cruise 2011.

(nyt)A Long, Lean Backlash to the Mini