CFDA

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wwd)YSL Cruise 2011

“Everybody has a reference in mind because Yves Saint Laurent is so iconic. So how are you going to do it"

While in New York showing for the showing of his Yves Saint Laurent resort collection on Thursday at the French Consulate, Stefano Pilati said about the collection“For me, it’s about understanding now that [the iconic looks] are basically cult. So the answer is to take certain elements from the archives and change them.”As for his show, Pilati said the venue makes perfect sense. “Resort started for the American market,” he said. “And so, this is a sort of a mini-show in New York in a space that could breathe a bit of French history by itself. You know, a collaboration.” read/see more

(wwd)"Made in Midtown"

"In a surprising finding, an independent study of the Garment District found the neighborhood is far from dying and has a future as a productive incubator of ideas — with the right support. That was the takeaway from the much-anticipated “Made in Midtown” survey that will be released today by the nonprofit Design Trust for Public Space after six months of in-depth research and man-on-the-street conversations with a battery of sources. But what was even more surprising to the group’s executive director, Deborah Marton — and perhaps more inspirational to the scores of designers who have yet to make names for themselves — is the vibrancy that exists for start-up businesses and emerging designers.

The fact the area is an incubator of ideas — or more of “a research and development hub” as opposed to an industrial production community — was a bit of a surprise, she said. The degree to which companies of various sizes use the district in that way, especially in terms of plucking fresh talent, was another eye-opener. “Made in Midtown” determined that 846 fashion companies are headquartered in the Garment District, which is more than those based in Paris, Milan and London combined." read more

(wwd)Shorts Return to Fashion

"Retailers report they’re experiencing double-digit increases in the shorts category, and it’s not just because the weather has heated up. Shorts have become fashion items, ranging from denim cutoffs to rolled and cuffed twill shorts to belted cargoes and longer, slinky silk shorts for evening.

Bloomingdale’s, for example, is touting shorts as “the summer essential from minis to knee-length” in signage at the entrance of its contemporary department. Across the country, stores ranging from Lord & Taylor, Belk and Saks Fifth Avenue to Scoop, Olive & Bette’s and Chalk Boutique are seeing customers gravitate toward shorts in greater numbers than previous years.  “It’s one of our big pushes. We got them in early and they started off very well,” said Frank Doroff, vice chairman and general merchandise manager for ready-to-wear at Bloomingdale’s. Some of the brands doing well are Sanctuary, Buffalo and Calvin Klein Jeans, especially in twills and rayons. “The rolled cuffed shorts are working really well. They’re the hottest trend,” said Rodbell. In denim, shorts from AG and Rich & Skinny have also been strong sellers, she said. “It’s easy to wear the rolled look, and the whole military thing is anchoring it,” she said. She said L&T is also doing well with the cocktail short, “which is softer and more fluid. It’s not big volume yet, and it’s more dressed up. It’s flirtier,” she said. Some of those vendors include 860, Love 80 and BCBG. read more

On that note, The Cut recommends J. Crew's Déjeuner pair (pictured above). The silk fabric makes these evening-appropriate, while the drawstring gives them a sporty spin that’s suitable for day.-nymag

(TED)Johanna Blakley: Lessons from fashion's free culture

We are always on the lookout for great TED talks, and here is one that is relevant to the business of fashion. Johanna Blakley talks about copyright laws, how much knock off designers can get away with and whether or not we need copyright laws in fashion to protect designers and their designs.

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

American Apparel Struggles, Target's Profits Rise, Designers and Digital Prints, Lucky's new CEO and A Tour of The CFDA Incubator

(wwd)American Apparel Facing New Credit Crisis

"Shares of the Los Angeles-based retailer fell more than 40 percent Wednesday after it said it does not expect to be in compliance with a covenant covering debt to adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization under a credit agreement with Lion Capital as of June 30. The firm based the projection on “existing trends” and results for the first quarter ended March 31.  London-based Lion provided American Apparel with $80 million in financing in March 2009, allowing it to pay off a $51 million loan from SOF Investment, an arm of computer tycoon Michael S. Dell’s MSD Investments. American Apparel said it is working with the lender to amend the agreement, but could provide “no assurances” it would obtain appropriate amendments prior to the anticipated covenant default."  read more

(wsj)Are You Wearing a Watercolor?

"Presenting high fashion—now brought to you by inkjet printer. The stores and runways this spring are full of clothes with intricate prints—not just flowers but unique, often enigmatic designs resembling artwork. Behind this profusion of patterns is a familiar piece of technology: a printer not unlike the one sitting on your desk." We love that designers can take inspiration and images directly from nature and with digital technology,  instantly turn it into the most beautiful printed fabric.  read more

(wwd)Target 1st-Qtr. Profits Gain 28.5%

"Customers “are putting well-considered discretionary items back in their baskets,” said Kathryn Tesija, executive vice president of merchandising. “They are indulging while feeling smart in their decisions. We’re seeing this trend particularly in home and apparel. Both men and women are freshening up their casual wardrobes and picking up new shoes and accessories for spring.” For the quarter ended May 1, Minneapolis-based Target reported net income of $671 million, compared with $522 million in the same year-ago quarter." read more

(wwd)New Lucky Brand CEO Seeks Sharper Focus

"Four months after joining Lucky, DeMattei is applying his 25 years of retail experience gained at Williams-Sonoma, J. Crew, Gap and Banana Republic to turn Lucky around. His first order of business is to entice shoppers with snazzy display windows that show off jeans selling for less than $119. Second, he plans to do more direct marketing to the 500,000 customers in Lucky’s database with e-mail blasts and catalogues. Third, all Lucky stores will begin using a new computerized replenishment system that will help them restock popular styles more quickly. Last, and perhaps most important, he plans to focus intensely on product and merchandise management. DeMattei is reducing the number of graphic T-shirts, increasing the number of women’s styles by 30 percent and expanding offerings for woven tops, sweaters, dresses, skirts and jackets." read more

(wwd/style.com)CFDA Fashion Incubator Is Ready to Go

"The incubator was launched by the Council of Fashion Designers of America with Mayor Michael Bloomberg in partnership with Newmark Holdings and the New York City Economic Development Corp. The initiative consists of a full floor at 209 West 38th Street, where 12 up-and-coming designers have taken two-year leases for studios at rents from $1,000 to $2,000 — far below the market rate for space so centrally located in the Garment District. It also provides mentorship from industry professionals." read more