Resort

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wwd)YSL Cruise 2011

“Everybody has a reference in mind because Yves Saint Laurent is so iconic. So how are you going to do it"

While in New York showing for the showing of his Yves Saint Laurent resort collection on Thursday at the French Consulate, Stefano Pilati said about the collection“For me, it’s about understanding now that [the iconic looks] are basically cult. So the answer is to take certain elements from the archives and change them.”As for his show, Pilati said the venue makes perfect sense. “Resort started for the American market,” he said. “And so, this is a sort of a mini-show in New York in a space that could breathe a bit of French history by itself. You know, a collaboration.” read/see more

(wwd)"Made in Midtown"

"In a surprising finding, an independent study of the Garment District found the neighborhood is far from dying and has a future as a productive incubator of ideas — with the right support. That was the takeaway from the much-anticipated “Made in Midtown” survey that will be released today by the nonprofit Design Trust for Public Space after six months of in-depth research and man-on-the-street conversations with a battery of sources. But what was even more surprising to the group’s executive director, Deborah Marton — and perhaps more inspirational to the scores of designers who have yet to make names for themselves — is the vibrancy that exists for start-up businesses and emerging designers.

The fact the area is an incubator of ideas — or more of “a research and development hub” as opposed to an industrial production community — was a bit of a surprise, she said. The degree to which companies of various sizes use the district in that way, especially in terms of plucking fresh talent, was another eye-opener. “Made in Midtown” determined that 846 fashion companies are headquartered in the Garment District, which is more than those based in Paris, Milan and London combined." read more

(wwd)Shorts Return to Fashion

"Retailers report they’re experiencing double-digit increases in the shorts category, and it’s not just because the weather has heated up. Shorts have become fashion items, ranging from denim cutoffs to rolled and cuffed twill shorts to belted cargoes and longer, slinky silk shorts for evening.

Bloomingdale’s, for example, is touting shorts as “the summer essential from minis to knee-length” in signage at the entrance of its contemporary department. Across the country, stores ranging from Lord & Taylor, Belk and Saks Fifth Avenue to Scoop, Olive & Bette’s and Chalk Boutique are seeing customers gravitate toward shorts in greater numbers than previous years.  “It’s one of our big pushes. We got them in early and they started off very well,” said Frank Doroff, vice chairman and general merchandise manager for ready-to-wear at Bloomingdale’s. Some of the brands doing well are Sanctuary, Buffalo and Calvin Klein Jeans, especially in twills and rayons. “The rolled cuffed shorts are working really well. They’re the hottest trend,” said Rodbell. In denim, shorts from AG and Rich & Skinny have also been strong sellers, she said. “It’s easy to wear the rolled look, and the whole military thing is anchoring it,” she said. She said L&T is also doing well with the cocktail short, “which is softer and more fluid. It’s not big volume yet, and it’s more dressed up. It’s flirtier,” she said. Some of those vendors include 860, Love 80 and BCBG. read more

On that note, The Cut recommends J. Crew's Déjeuner pair (pictured above). The silk fabric makes these evening-appropriate, while the drawstring gives them a sporty spin that’s suitable for day.-nymag

(TED)Johanna Blakley: Lessons from fashion's free culture

We are always on the lookout for great TED talks, and here is one that is relevant to the business of fashion. Johanna Blakley talks about copyright laws, how much knock off designers can get away with and whether or not we need copyright laws in fashion to protect designers and their designs.

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

DKNY Resort, AE Profits Fall, Cathy Horyn on Ungaro, Burberry's Profits Rise and Obama's Trade Bill With Haiti.

(wwd)DKNY Resort 2011

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(wwd)American Eagle Profits Fall

"American Eagle Outfitters Inc. issued cautious guidance for the current quarter and said the closure of the Martin + Osa business weighed on first-quarter results. Net income was cut in half to $10.9 million, or 5 cents a share, compared with $22 million, or 11 cents a year ago. Excluding the charges and losses related to the shuttered Martin + Osa business, adjusted profits of 17 cents a share met Wall Street’s expectations. Citing weaker business trends, the retailer projected adjusted profits of 12 cents to 16 cents for the second quarter, falling short of the 21 cents analysts expected." read more

(nyt)Cathy Horyn's Take on Giles Deacon and Ungaro

"Ungaro may seem “a poisoned chalice,” as one of my fashion sisters in England called the Paris house, but this is an industry that dauntlessly recovers from bad taste. If my count is accurate, Giles Deacon is now the sixth ready-to-wear designer at Ungaro in the past decade (and I’m not counting the very brief and strange Lindsay Lohan episode). That’s a lot of designers trying to give a modern look to a label known for prints and a zesty femininity. Mr. Deacon is well liked and reasonably well known in England, where he started his business in 2003, and his clothes have a quirky elegance. But many young-uns have busted out since then and the world keeps changing daily. Fashion folks point to the success of Balenciaga and Balmain — very different businesses but examples nonetheless of old houses that have been re-energized." read more

(wwd)Burberry Profits Rise to $131.5 Million

"Burberry Group plc said Wednesday profits in the year to March 31 rose to 82.2 million pounds, or $131.5 million, fuelled by a 6.5 percent spike in sales and a string of cost-efficiencies. Sales rose to 1.28 billion pounds, or $2.04 billion. The fastest growing category was non-apparel, which accounted for 36 percent of revenue. “Burberry has delivered record profits in what have been very challenging markets,” said chief executive Angela Ahrendts." read more

(wwd)Obama Signs Haiti Trade Bill

"President Obama has signed into law a bill that almost triples the amount of apparel made in Haiti that can be shipped into the U.S. duty free. The bill is intended to help Haiti, the poorest country in the Western Hemisphere, rebuild after the devastating earthquake in January that disrupted the mainstay of its economy — the apparel and textile industry. The centerpiece of the legislation would increase the allowances of third-country fabric of knit and woven apparel to 200 million square meter equivalents from 70 million SMEs in each category. But it would also place sublimits of 85 million SMEs on the duty free benefits for certain high-volume knit apparel products and limits of 70 million SMEs for certain woven apparel products."read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

After slight break from blogging, I'm back! Here is the newest addition to the Style File Group, The Daily Cheat Sheet-- where I will be updating you with the latest news in the Fashion Business for your reading enjoyment.

(WSJ) Talbots Politely Shows Granny the Door

"After spending last year atop the retail death-watch list, Talbots Inc. is now a favorite on Wall Street, thanks to cost cuts and a complex financial arrangement for unloading its enormous debt. Chief Executive Trudy Sullivan is attempting to refocus on women 35 and older. Talbots, known for classic apparel targeted at the middle- and upper-class suburban set, still has work to do. Its image had gotten so old that in a customer survey a couple of years ago, women 65 years of age and older said the brand was for "someone older," says Ms. Sullivan. Making a brand younger is notoriously tricky: Talbots must make its clothes more youthful without alienating its core customers during the transition, and it has to persuade a new swath of women in their 30s and 40s to consider shopping there.Talbots has stepped up its fashion quotient, with offerings that include a sequin-trimmed sweater and leopard-print-lined black booties. So far, it has had some hits and misses. Last spring, "ethnic" prints in bright colors including orange and lime green misfired."

(WWD) Macy’s Swings to 1st-Qtr. Profit

"Macy's inc announced Wednesday that it's profits rose to it's highest point since the recession. Sales totaled $5.57 billion an increase of 7.2% over last years %5.2 billion while comp store sales rose 5.5%. Even Macy's online sales were up 34% since last quarter."

(NYT) Discount Store Is New York Beachhead for Nordstrom

"After more than a century, Nordstrom, the upscale department store chain from Seattle, will make its Manhattan debut on Tuesday. Expect 25,000 pairs of discounted shoes, and an automated checkout line more at home in a supermarket than a purveyor of luxury goods. Like any other Nordstrom Rack, though, only about 25 percent of the merchandise comes from full-line Nordstrom stores. And with the luxury retail business improving, Nordstrom stores have been turning over inventory more quickly than ever."

(WWD) Urban Outfitters, Kohl’s on the Rise

"The retail rebound appeared to be alive and well Thursday morning as Urban Outfitters Inc. and Kohl’s Corp. both beat first-quarter expectations, posting double-digit gains on both the top and the bottom lines. Urban Outfitter’s earnings jumped 72 percent to $53 million and Kohl’s net income rose 45.3 percent to $199 million.Kohl’s also boosted its full-year profit projections. The chain now expects to earn $3.57 to $3.75 a share, up from the $3.40 to $3.63 previously predicted."

(WWD) Warnaco Posts Net Gain, Ups Guidance

"The Warnaco Group Inc. on Monday posted a 27.7 percent increase in first-quarter profits and raised fiscal 2010 guidance. Joe Gromek, president and chief executive officer, said, “Looking ahead, we are optimistic about the prospects for our company….In addition to powerful brands, Warnaco possesses a highly efficient business model, an established global infrastructure and an experienced leadership team.” He said in 2010, the company will continue to focus on global expansion and “opportunities to expand our direct operation through strategic acquisitions of key distribution and franchise partners.”"

(The Frisky)Chanel Cruises Through Saint-Tropez With Playful Fashion Show

"With a sidewalk outside a patisserie as a makeshift runway, there was nothing theatrically lacking about Chanel‘s cruise 2011 fashion show presented yesterday in the jet-setter’s paradise of Saint-Tropez, France. Karl Lagerfeld substituted his usual black suit for a shiny purple ensemble (but kept the fingerless gloves, bien sûr), models approached the runway by yacht, and teen fashion sensation Georgia Jagger supposedly snuck out of the house to walk in the show, finishing it off with a motorcycle ride down the boardwalk. "