The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wwd)Indian Cotton Harvest May Benefit Manufacturers

India, the world’s second-biggest exporter of raw cotton after China, is positioned to produce a healthy harvest this year that could help lower world prices and lift global garment manufacturers. During July, the wettest month in India’s June-to-September monsoon season, farmers planted 9.5 million hectares of cotton, up from 8 million last year. Cotton farmers have been encouraged to plant bigger crops to cash in on higher prices amid concerns over global cotton shortages. The U.S. Department of Agriculture has warned that demand this year may outstrip supply. World cotton production is forecast to increase to 113.9 million bales in 2010-11, an 11 percent increase from 102.9 million bales in 2009-10, the USDA said. However, world consumption may rise to 119.1 million bales next season from an estimated 115.9 million. A strong monsoon season, which followed last year’s drought-like weather conditions across much of India, bodes well for the cotton crop, experts said. India’s repeal of curbs on raw cotton exports also has given a boost to cotton farmers. In April, India imposed a ban on cotton exports in an effort to cool down domestic prices that had risen more than 25 percent since October. It partly lifted the ban a month later and, starting Oct. 1, will remove all limits on cotton exports. While that’s good news for Indian cotton farmers and global textile manufacturers, especially in textile-dependent countries such as Pakistan and Bangladesh, Indian garment manufacturers are unhappy the ban has been lifted. As prices rise and cotton stocks fall, their margins could suffer.  “The government should put a total, permanent ban on cotton exports,” said Rajesh Goyal, owner of Ankit International, a garment factory in the north Indian city of Jaipur that exports to the U.S. and Europe.  Goyal said it was important for the government to support India’s textiles industry, which employs 35 million people directly and 88 million indirectly. Rita Menon, secretary at the textiles ministry, said the Indian government was developing a policy to govern cotton exports. It would determine how much cotton was needed by the domestic textiles industry and how much Indian cotton farmers would produce before deciding whether export limits were necessary, she said. read more

(reuters)Chelsea Clinton Marries in 'Royal Wedding'

Chelsea Clinton -- the only child of the former U.S. president and the U.S. secretary of state -- wed Marc Mezvinsky on Saturday at Astor Courts, an historic 50-acre (20-hectare) estate about 100 miles north of New York City. "Today, we watched with great pride and overwhelming emotion as Chelsea and Marc wed in a beautiful ceremony at Astor Courts, surrounded by family and their close friends," Bill and Hillary Clinton said in a statement. "We could not have asked for a more perfect day to celebrate the beginning of their life together, and we are so happy to welcome Marc into our family," the statement said. Photos showed the bride and groom walking down a broad outdoor aisle between rows of guests. Chelsea wore a strapless white gown with a fitted bodice and full skirt with platinum-colored beading at the waist and a long white veil. The groom wore a simple black tuxedo going down the aisle and in a photo with the Clinton family, and a white prayer shawl and yarmulke in separate photos with Chelsea under a flowering tree and amid wedding guests. In the one photo in which she appeared, Hillary Clinton wore a magenta gown. Bill Clinton, who is pictured walking Chelsea down the aisle, wore a simple black tux with a white boutonniere in his lapel.

GUEST LIST LARGELY SECRET

Apart from the parents of the bride, the only other high profile guests seen in Rhinebeck were Bill Clinton's former secretary of state, Madeleine Albright, actors Ted Danson and Mary Steenburgen and fashion designer Vera Wang. Also spotted was real estate scion and movie producer billionaire Steve Bing. Chelsea Clinton, 30, and Mezvinsky, 32, have known each other since they were teenagers. He is an investment banker, whose parents Marjorie Margolies-Mezvinsky and Edward Mezvinsky were once Democratic U.S. House of Representatives members. Chelsea Clinton, who worked at a New York hedge fund and has more recently studied health policy at Columbia University, has kept a low profile since her father left the White House in January 2001, although she campaigned for her mother during her failed run for the 2008 Democratic presidential nomination. Signs and pictures congratulating the newlyweds hang in many shop windows in Rhinebeck, which has been swarmed by media around the world for an event that experts estimate to have cost between $3 million and $5 million. Airspace above Rhinebeck was closed for 12 hours on Saturday for the wedding and media were kept well away from the entrance to Astor Courts. Security in the area was comparable to that surrounding state visits.The guest list was reported to be between 400 and 500, but did not include President Barack Obama. "Hillary and Bill properly want to keep this as a thing for Chelsea and her soon-to-be husband," Obama said on "The View" talk show Thursday. "It would be tough enough to have one president at a wedding. You don't want two presidents." read more

(wired)Why Do We Care About Luxury Brands?

The pricing of fakes reveals something important about how the human mind calculates value. In many instances, we crave authenticity as an end unto itself. We want the real iPhone not because it works better but because it’s the real one. The same logic explains why we splurge on Hermes bags, Rolex watches, Prada T-shirts, fancy Bordeaux, and expensive art. (How much would you pay for a fake Picasso print?) While a Rolex is a lovely piece of time keeping machinery, the value of the watch has nothing to do with its function. Instead, it depends on the intact authenticity of the brand. It’s easy to ridicule this behavior as mere snobbery. We might look down on the pretentious fools carrying Louis Vuitton luggage, or bragging about their Vertu phone, or wearing underwear with a big logo. We probably assume that they’ve just wasted a lot of money on some costly social signaling, or that they’re using the brands to assuage their deep insecurity. Unfortunately, we’re all vulnerable to the same tendency. There’s now suggestive evidence that our faith in the authentic — especially when the authenticity is supported by effective marketing campaigns — is a deep-seated human instinct, which emerges at an extremely early age. Consider a clever experiment led by the psychologists Bruce Hood and Paul Bloom. The scientists tested 43 children between the ages of three and six. The children were shown a “copying machine” — it was actually tachistoscopes that were modified to have flashing lights and buzzers — and told that it could make an exact copy of any object. After the machine was demonstrated for the kids — the scientists “copied” a block and a rubber animal — Hood and Bloom then told the kids that the machine could also duplicate toys. A ‘‘stretchy man’’ was then placed in the box and the illusion repeated. Interestingly, the young children actually preferred the “duplicate” toy and chose it 62 percent of the time. The kids didn’t worry about the “authenticity” of the stretchy man. But Hood and Bloom didn’t stop there. They also had many of the young kids bring in their “attachment objects,” such as their favorite blanket or stuffed animal. (I still remember losing Johnny, my stuffed penguin, at the tender age of five. Grief.) The scientists then offered to “copy” the object for the kids. Four of the children simply refused — they wouldn’t let their blankie anywhere near that nefarious device. But even those kids who allowed their attachment object to be “copied” almost always refused to see the objects as equivalent. The new duplicate was a bootleg blankie, an ersatz stuffed animal. Even though the children were assured that the objects were identical, they intuitively believed that the copy wasn’t the same. It lacked a history, a bond, a sentimental attachment. It was inauthentic. The same principle applies to brands. Although we outgrow stuffed animals, we never get beyond the irrational logic of authenticity and essentialism. There are certain things whose value depends largely on their legitimacy. While I might listen to bootleg music on my iPhone, I want the phone to be genuine. I want that Apple logo to be real. Why? Because the brand has effectively woven itself into my emotional brain. Because when I see that logo, I don’t see a functional object. Instead, I’ve learned to respond to everything that isn’t functional, all those subtle connotations conveyed in the glossy ads. There are many blankets in the world. But there is only one blankie. The best brands are blankies. read more

(wwd)Retail Stocks Climb Monday

Retail stocks began August by padding their 5 percent bounce in July, rising 2.1 percent on Monday amid signs the economic recovery, while not strong or swift, is being sustained. The S&P Retail Index advanced 8.15 points to 413.21 as the Dow Jones Industrial Average picked up 208.44 points, or 2 percent, to end the trading day at 10,674.38. The Dow’s advance came on top of a 7.1 percent rebound last month. Investors were reassured, if not necessarily elated, over several pieces of economic news Monday. Federal Reserve chairman Ben Bernanke told a conference he expects a pickup in consumer spending in the “coming quarters from its recent modest pace.” The Institute for Supply Management said its manufacturing index stood at 55.5 for July, down from 56.2 in June but still above the 50 mark indicative of production growth. Additionally, The Conference Board reported online job openings increased by 139,200 in July, above the recent monthly average of 43,000. Mid-Atlantic states have been “posting steady and strong upward trends throughout the year,” noted June Shelp, vice president of The Conference Board. Liz Claiborne Inc. logged the biggest advance of the 172 equities tracked by WWD, rising 7.2 percent to $5.08. Retailers leaping at least twice as fast as retail stocks in general included Abercrombie & Fitch Co., up 5.1 percent to $38.84; Nordstrom Inc., 4.4 percent to $35.51, and Macy’s Inc., 4.3 percent to $19.46. The Bon-Ton Stores continued its recent upward trajectory with a 4.7 percent pickup to $10.01, and Zale Corp. continued to gain following Golden Gate Capital’s recent expansion of its stake in the troubled jeweler to 34.5 percent, growing 5.1 percent to $1.85. The advance in U.S. equities followed strong days for stocks in Europe and Asia. The CAC 40 was up 3 percent to 3,752.03 in Paris and London’s FTSE 100 rose 2.7 percent to 5,397.11. Frankfurt’s DAX ended the trading day at 6,292.13, up 2.3 percent. While Tokyo’s Nikkei 225 managed just a 0.4 percent gain, to 9,570.31, Hong Kong’s Hang Sang Index logged a 1.8 percent advance, to 21,412.79, and Shanghai’s SSE Composite Index enjoyed a 1.3 percent increase, to 2,672.52. read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wwd)Profiling China's Luxury Consumer

Luxury brands better get to know the Chinese words er nai and xiao san. Those phrases mean mistress and third girlfriend, respectively, and are whispered on an almost daily basis by well-to-do Chinese. “With some fashion brands, we think that almost half of the sales are for mistresses,” said Rupert Hoogewerf, publisher and head researcher of the Huran Report, China’s rich list. “But this is difficult to ascertain.” Equally difficult is defining exactly who is the consumer driving China’s supercharged luxury consumption since specifics are so hard to come by. “That is the billion-dollar question,” said Charles de Brabant, an adjunct professor of luxury branding at China Europe International Business School in Shanghai, who said many luxury brands don’t fully understand Chinese consumers’ status-motivated shopping. “The brands often say: ‘These customers are not like me. They are bling-bling. They are overnight millionaires,’” de Brabant continued. “It’s a far more sophisticated game that goes beyond the Rolex, the dark sunglasses and the souped-up Porsche.” David Stewart, a partner in Jigsaw International, a lifestyle research agency in Shanghai, said the typical consumer profiles of other markets have no correlation in China. “The luxury consumers in China tend to be younger than in other parts of the world. Some of them are independently wealthy. It’s very unclear where their money comes from,” he said. Industry observers said there are several key consumer groups driving the country’s luxury goods market, which is estimated to come in at $9 billion this year, up more than 20 percent from 2009, according to China Market Research. The shoppers range from office worker women looking to snap up a branded handbag to entrepreneurs in polo shirts eager to please their mistresses. The white-collar “aspirational” shopper is the fastest-growing group in China, according to China Market Research. In their 20s, and often not making more than $400 a month, these individuals will nonetheless save to buy a luxury bag. Ben Cavender, a researcher at China Market Research in Shanghai, predicted that going forward, this group will make up 60 to 70 percent of the overall market. The superrich are another significant category of shoppers. Mainland China has 55,000 individuals with net assets of more than 100 million yuan, or $14.7 million, according to the Hurun Report. “This higher-wealth group tends to be slightly older men, age 44, and over 15 percent of these men live in Beijing. They have their own company, but have made their money from property and investments,” said Hoogewerf. Widening the net, there are 875,000 Chinese millionaires with personal assets of more than 10 million yuan, or $1.47 million. This figure includes the 55,000 superrich individuals mentioned earlier. read more

(wsj)A Fashion Identity Crisis at Wal-Mart

Wal-Mart Stores Inc. cannot seem to find the right fit when it comes to selling clothing. By quietly ousting its U.S. division apparel chief last week, the world's largest retailer acknowledged that its clothing strategy has been a dud. Again. Over the past decade, Wal-Mart has veered from one approach to clothing to another. The discount giant has even tried to emulate rival Target Corp. by stocking its own lines of trendy outfits. At other times the Bentonville, Ark., retailer has placed its bets on bulk packs of everyday wear, like tube socks and T-shirts. "Wal-Mart has suffered from not knowing who they want to be," said Allen Questrom, the former chief executive of J.C. Penney Co. who recently left Wal-Mart's board. "They're either trying to be too fashionable or too basic." Some critics have said Wal-Mart didn't listen to customers or suppliers. Company spokesman David Tovar said Wal-Mart thinks it finally has "the right team in place to lead the apparel business forward. He added that the retailer is "listening to what our customers want and speaking with all key suppliers and letting them know we're working in a collaborative way. The retailer said last month that it was going to focus more on basics like underwear, socks, T-shirts and jeans. Part of the issue for Wal-Mart is that it devotes a relatively smaller space to apparel than Target, where apparel represents about 20% of its revenue. At Wal-Mart clothing is only 10% of sales, so fashion items can crowd out basics but the company has been reluctant to give it more space. Clothing sales, which accounted for about 10% of the U.S. division's $258.2 billion in sales in the company's fiscal year ended Jan. 31, were down from about 11% in the previous year, according to Wal-Mart financial documents. Kelly Tackett, a retail analyst at Kantar Retail, a retail marketing and research consultancy in Columbus, Ohio, said that with so many shoppers trading down during the recession, Wal-Mart missed an important opportunity to grow its clothing business by giving its shoppers more fashionable everyday apparel. read more

(wwd)Buranis of MBFG Arrested in Milan

The opulent lifestyles of Walter Burani and his son Giovanni appear to have caught up with them. The former executives of Mariella Burani Fashion Group were arrested Thursday by the Guardia di Finanza of Reggio Emilia, Italy, a police force under the authority of the country’s Minister of Economy and Finance. The arrests, confirmed by a spokesman for the Guardia di Finanza, were requested by Milan prosecutors Luigi Orsi and Mauro Clerici, who have been investigating Burani Designer Holding for fraudulent bankruptcy. BDH is the parent company of Mariella Burani Fashion Group, which produces and distributes collections for La Perla and Vivienne Westwood, among others, and is under state-supported administration. Walter Burani, former chairman of MBFG, is under house arrest, while Giovanni, former chief executive officer, has been transferred to Milan’s San Vittore prison. The spokesman said the Buranis will now be interrogated by the judge for the preliminary investigations, Fabrizio D’Arcangelo. He added that Walter Burani was granted house arrest because of his age, 77, and “attenuated responsibilities.” Only two years ago, the Burani family seemed to have it all: a growing fashion conglomerate and a life in the fast lane. Tales of second-generation Giovanni Burani living in a Renaissance castle were outdone only by his father Walter’s weekends racing vintage Formula 1 cars.  But the pendulum swung — and swung hard. The once high-flying Mariella Burani Fashion Group said earlier this year it was going to be liquidated, weighed down by debts of more than $600 million, and had to pledge 66.4 percent of the company to Italy’s Centrobanca (UBI Banca Group). read more

(wwd)Congress Passes Duty Relief Measure

Congress has sent a tariff suspension bill to President Obama, ending seven months of increased duties on imported textiles, footwear and apparel components and relieving some of the cost pressures the industry has been facing. The Senate passed the measure by voice vote Tuesday night, sending the measure to the president, who is expected to sign it. The House passed the bill last week on a vote of 378 to 43. Apparel, textile and footwear companies have been paying thousands of dollars in duties on imported components and some finished products since Jan. 1 because Congress let legislation expire that suspended tariffs on hundreds of imported products. The bill, known as the Miscellaneous Tariff Bill, must be renewed by Congress periodically and is meant to help domestic manufacturers compete by giving them tariff breaks on components such as yarns and fibers, or footwear, that are no longer made in the U.S. and must be imported. The 2006 duty suspension bill expired at the end of 2009 and the new bill would extend the tariff breaks through 2012. “This legislation will bring direct and measurable benefits to our economy through job creation and the continuation of well-priced quality products,” said Kevin Burke, president and chief executive officer of the American Apparel & Footwear Association, who called on the president to sign it quickly. “Along with our thousands of employees and our millions of consumers, the U.S. apparel and footwear industry stands to benefit from today’s Senate action and President Obama’s eventual signature.” A key component of the bill is a retroactive provision that will provide full or partial refunds to companies on duties paid on all covered products since January. Textile executives applauded the legislation because it would reinstate the majority of duty suspensions for rayon fiber imports and add several new duty breaks for acrylic fibers. “We’re terribly relieved that this has been done,” said David Trumbull, vice president of trade at the National Textile Association. “Companies took money from other things they might have invested in, like new equipment or worker training, and paid higher duties, while waiting for the government to make them whole, so they really lost the time value of that money.” Footwear executives had concerns about the new bill because some of the imports received higher duties than in the past. According to the law, duty breaks in each category cannot amount to a total loss in tariff revenue to the U.S. government of more than $500,000 a year. If trade grows in a given category, lawmakers increase the duties to bring the overall tariff revenue loss back under the cap. Several hiking boot and shoe imports will see an increase in the duties in the new bill because the volume of imports reached the cap. On the positive side, the measure would still provide many duty reductions on certain imported footwear categories. read more

(wsj)Fashion Nation: What Retailers Know About Us

Luxury-spending data can tell us a lot about the state of the nation—and our own neighborhoods. Take Detroit—not the city where one might expect to see the strongest recovery. Yet when American Express Co. looked at luxury spending in top and midsize cities around the country, Detroit led the list, with growth of 18% in the first quarter of 2010 from the year-earlier quarter. Lo and behold, Ford stock is up, too, suggesting that Detroit's local investors are feeling more optimistic than they were when auto executives were driving hybrids down to Washington to beg for bailouts. New York City, on the other hand, is still cutting back. Luxury spending was down 7.7% in the quarter. Atlanta was down the most at 18.2%. By tracking customers' spending habits, retailers get a bird's-eye view of tastes as they ebb and flow. Online retailers, in particular, see every click we make. They know which brands we've peeked at, how long we pondered, and what we actually purchased. They know the time of day and the days of the week that we shop. They know—and record—our color choices, sizes and tastes so that they can recommend clothes that are in tune with our yearnings. Our banks have nearly as much information about our purchasing habits. "We know where the customers live and we can track their behavior back to where they live," says Ed Jay, senior vice president of American Express's Business Insights unit, which mines its credit-card data for consumer trends and sells reports to clients. American Express says it doesn't provide data on individual consumers. This might seem slightly creepy to pre-Facebook generations who imagine their tastes and habits are private. But all this clicking amounts to a heap of insight into what people are spending on and even what they're thinking about. Some of the data confirm regional stereotypes. Southerners bought more white, green, and pink than other regions' residents, for instance, according to data from private-sale site Hautelook.com, which caters to young, urban professional women. Now I know, too, why I feel like such a loner wearing brown in Los Angeles, where black, white and gray are preferred. Retailers' data also bust a few commonly held beliefs. Though Dallas has a flashy, big-spending image, the average woman there spends less on fashion than one in notoriously frumpy Washington, D.C., according to fashion website ShopItToMe.com. The data also offer a window on populations moving among trendy neighborhoods. ShopItToMe, which notifies members of sales on their favorite brands, observed on its blog recently that New York's "most conservative" dressers reside on the Upper West Side, which has a reputation for being culturally liberal. Of the site's more than 600 brands, Upper West Side residents' favorite is Gap Inc.'s Banana Republic. Meanwhile, residents across town on the Upper East Side favor flashier, more expensive apparel, such as Jimmy Choo shoes. The Web site also looks at city-by-city data. The most popular brand in every ShopItToMe city, including Cleveland, St. Louis, Boston, New York and Los Angeles? Victoria's Secret. Everyone needs underwear. And despite the fashion press's obsession with J. Crew, the company is among the top five brands only in New York City and Boston. Other expectations for the nation only seemto be born out by fashion data—until one looks deeper. When ShopItToMe looked at clothing sizes, the results seemed to confirm what folks say—that women are thinner on the coasts. In New York and Los Angeles, 14% of women selected size 0 tops, compared with only 5% nationwide. ShopItToMe looked at a random sample of 86,225 women who registered between June 2009 and June 2010. But that's not necessarily because of a predominance of tall model types. Petite clothing and small shoe sizes were also popular on the coasts, raising the possibility that the women there are just smaller. Even boredom with fashion appears in demographic data. When the Affluence Collaborative, a research group, asked luxury shoppers to look at a list and choose brands they think are boring, they found that tastes differed by gender. Male luxury consumers with incomes between $75,000 and $199,000—the biggest group surveyed—said they were bored by Saks Fifth Avenue. Women in the category were bored by Best Buy. read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Russia's Newest Spy

Move over, Anna Chapman, there's another "Victoria's Secret" agent sending love to Mother Russia -- and her name's Anna, too. Around the same time Chapman and her Russian spy-ring comrades were sent home, federal agents at JFK Airport nabbed a stunning Texas beautician attempting to smuggle state-of-the-art night-vi sion gear to Moscow. Anna Fermanova, 24, who, judging from her Facebook page, shares more about her body piercing than state se crets, "knowingly and intentionally" tried to bring the highly regu lated gear to Russia, according to court papers. Born in Latvia and raised in Plano, Texas, Fermanova was stopped by agents in March at Kennedy Airport with a $7,000 Raptor 4X night-vision weapons sight and two other $4,000 devices, according to the documents filed in Brooklyn federal court. The agents allowed her to travel to Moscow, but arrested her upon her return July 15. She will be charged with attempting to export the devices, which are considered US munitions, at an arraignment in New York later this month. Fermanova, who was released on $50,000 bail and is being kept on house arrest, called the allegations "hilarious and over-dramatized." "I am a US citizen. I grew up in America. I am not a spy -- that is just funny," she told The Post. "I am freaking out right now." Her lawyer Scott Palmer said there was no espionage involved and that Fermanova's husband planned to resell the scopes to big-game hunters, according to The Smoking Gun. The vision goggles cannot be exported without advance approval from the State Department, since the items are considered weapons, officials said. Fermanova works in Moscow giving English lessons to Russian students. Palmer declined to discuss where Fermanova came up with the $15,000 to purchase the three device. Two devices were purchased for $4,000 each, and a third was $7,000. He also said Fermanova emigrated with her parents to the United States from Latvia when she was a young girl and is an American citizen. According to her Facebook page, she is a 2005 graduate of the Ogle School of Hair, Skin and Nails. Records show that she also holds a cosmetologist license in Texas. The arrest of Fermanova comes after red-headed Russian spy Anna Chapman, 28, and nine others pleaded guilty to federal charges and were deported. The ring was arrested on June 27 and released into the custody of Russian authorities after feds arranged for a spy swap earlier this month. Asked about Chapman, Fermanova said, "I don't even know who that is." Immigration and Customs Enforcement began to probe Fermanova in February when a confidential informant reported she was seeking to acquire the equipment. read more

(wwd)LVMH Reports 52.8% Surge in Profits

The economic recovery may be hiccuping, but the prospects for the luxury sector keep brightening. On Tuesday, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton reported a 52.8 percent leap in first-half profits and said July kept the same pace as the first six months of the year, when revenues rose 16.5 percent. “The numbers speak for themselves,” said a sanguine Bernard Arnault, president and chief executive officer of the French luxury giant, addressing analysts at LVMH’s art-stuffed headquarters here. “We are fairly confident for the second half.” The buoyant LVMH results follow strong showings by other European luxury players. Sales at Hermès International jumped 27 percent in the second quarter, while Burberry posted an overall 30.6 percent sales increase in its first quarter. Further good news from the luxury sector could come Friday, when French retail-to-luxury conglomerate PPR is due to report first-half profits and sales. Despite the strong first-half performance, Arnault, like other industry executives, cautioned the global economic picture remains “uncertain.” But he noted, “We have reason to believe business will be buoyant.” Indeed, he noted that “demand is greater than supply for certain products. It’s an enviable challenge, I would say.” On cue, giant screens flashed images of new workshops and tanneries in France and Belgium for Louis Vuitton, which kept up its double-digit pace of sales growth and powered the fashion and leather goods division to a 17.7 percent gain. read more

Dolce & Gabbana to Dress Chelsea Soccer Players

The players at London’s Chelsea Football Club will have a whole new – Italian - wardrobe in time for the opening of Britain’s premier league soccer season next month. Dolce & Gabbana has signed a three-year partnership to design the players’ formal wear and to re-design the directors’ lounge at the Stamford Bridge stadium in West London, the club’s home. The announcement was made during a cocktail party at Stamford Bridge on Tuesday. “We are really happy about this partnership and to be able to link our name to such a prestigious club like Chelsea,” said Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana in a statement. “Football players are style icons both on and off the pitch, and, on top of this, there is our love of England and of London, which has always been a source of inspiration for our work.” The players’ outfits include a three-piece, two-button suit in dark blue wool twill, a blue poplin shirt, and a blue jacquard tie. The team’s colors are blue and white. Chelsea’s lion crest will be embroidered on the suit’s pocket. There is also a blue wool and cashmere coat embroidered with the club’s logo. For the players’ free time, the duo has designed a blue poplin shirt worn with dark blue denim jeans and black calfskin sneakers. read more

(daily mail)Goodbye Size Zero: Plus-size designer fashion finally makes its debut

The fashion world may continue to argue the plus-size debate for years to come, but one company has taken matters in to its own hands. Saks Fifth Avenue, the ultra chic American department store, will soon be adding plus-sized clothing to the high-end floor of its world famous New York branch - a major coup for designers, shoppers and the fashion industry alike. Due to hit rails in conjunction with the Autumn/Winter 2010 collections, garments that were last season only available up to a US size 10 (UK size 14) will soon be up for grabs up to a US size 14 (UK size 18) and some styles may even be produced up to a US size 20 (UK size 24). Saks Fifth Avenue's legendary third-floor houses collections from the world's most exclusive and celebrated designers. Fashion powerhouses such as Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Akris, Armani, Carolina Herrera, Escada, Donna Karan, St. John, Oscar de la Renta, Max Mara, Valentino, Michael Kors, Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Fendi and Roberto Cavalli can be found covering the floor space of the internationally revered store. With such a wealth of designers soon to be available in larger sizes, designer hungry women can look forward to buying everything from trouser suits to evening gowns and everything in between. This gleam of light in the very murky waters of the plus size argument does have one catch, however. Styles are likely to be produced as one-offs or in small numbers while the trial takes place. There may be many women clamouring to get their hands on this season's hottest items, but only a few lucky ladies will be able to bask in the glory of Saks' plus-size designer heaven. If the trial goes well, Saks will roll out the new venture to its other US stores. Hopefully Saks' UK counterparts will take heed and plus-size designer wear will soon be widely available on this side of the pond too. Hot on the heels of plus-size model Crystal Renn's backlash against the Fashion for Passion campaign shots taken by photographer Nicholas Routzen, in which she was dramatically retouched, the news of Saks' stance on the whole sizing issue is certain to reignite the ongoing plus-size debate. With designers only recently welcoming plus-size models on to the catwalks and the size zero phenomenon still going strong, Saks brings the whole debate to a brand new juncture. One most definitely providing a cause to celebrate. read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Resort 2011 Trend:The Long Way

Whether slender or swirling, resort’s ankle-grazing dresses have a decidedly breezy air. See WWD's collection of long silhouettes for Resort

(wwd)Consumer Confidence Falls in July

Consumer sentiment fell for the second straight month in July, a potentially bad omen for the back-to-school selling season. The Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index dropped to 50.4 for July, down from 54.3 in June and 62.7 in May. Economists were expecting a milder decline to 51. Shoppers were more negative in their take on current economic conditions and in their outlook. “Consumer confidence faded further in July as consumers continue to grow increasingly more pessimistic about the short-term outlook,” said Lynn Franco, director of the group’s Consumer Research Center. “Concerns about business conditions and the labor market are casting a dark cloud over consumers that is not likely to lift until the job market improves. Given consumers’ heightened level of anxiety, along with their pessimistic income outlook and lackluster job growth, retailers are very likely to face a challenging back-to-school season." The Present Situation Index fell to 26.1, from 26.8 in June, and the Expectations Index pulled back to 66.6 from 72.7 a month ago. read more

(bloomberg)LVMH First-Half Net Income Rises

LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, the world’s largest maker of luxury goods, reported first-half profit that beat analysts’ estimates as sales of fashion and leather goods accelerated in the second quarter. Net income rose 53 percent to 1.05 billion euros ($1.36 billion), the Paris-based company said today in a statement after the market closed. The average estimate of 10 analysts compiled by Bloomberg was 956.2 million euros. Second-quarter sales advanced 22 percent to 4.63 billion euros. Demand for luxury goods is returning as Chinese shoppers buy more high-end clothing and accessories, and U.S. and European retailers replenish inventories after the recession. Hermes International SCA, the French maker of luxury handbags and silk scarves, said last week that revenue may grow as much as 12 percent this year, excluding currency swings. “Visibility on results for the sector and particularly for LVMH should be quite good over the next 12-18 months,” HSBC analysts Erwan Rambourg, Antoine Belge and Sophie Dargnies wrote in a July 7 note. Demand for Louis Vuitton luggage and Hennessy cognac will remain “resilient” and currency fluctuations will offer a “substantial boost” to margins, the analysts wrote. They have an “overweight” rating on the stock. LVMH fell 2.77 euros, or 2.9 percent, to 92.26 euros today in Paris. The shares have gained 18 percent this year, giving the maker of Moet & Chandon champagne and TAG Heuer watches a market value of 45.2 billion euros.

Product Launches

“In the current recovery from the economic crisis, LVMH will continue to gain market share thanks to the numerous product launches planned before the end of the year, to its geographic expansion in promising markets and to its cost management,” the company said in the statement. First-half revenue increased 16 percent, or 14 percent excluding currency swings and acquisitions, LVMH said. On a local currency basis, sales gained 18 percent in the U.S., 21 percent in Asia and 11 percent in Europe, the company said at a press conference. Sales rose 27 percent in China. At the fashion and leather-goods unit, the company’s largest, sales climbed 18 percent, LVMH said. Watch and jewelry revenue advanced 28 percent, slowing from the first-quarter’s 33 percent surge, as restocking effects faded. Sales of wines and spirits gained 21 percent, while perfume and cosmetics advanced 12 percent, LVMH said. Revenue at the selective retailing unit, which includes Sephora and DFS, rose 14 percent. read more

Forever 21 CEO: We Don't Have Designs on Pregnant Teens

Fashion retailer Forever 21's debut collection of maternity wear, Love 21, has some concerned that the brand is targeting (and thus condoning) pregnant teenagers. Love 21 is now available in a select locations in Arizona, Alaska, California, Utah and Texas, which also happen to be the U.S. states with the highest rates of teen pregnancy, according to a January 2010 report from the National Campaign to Prevent Teen Pregnancy. Forever 21 EVP Larry Meyer responded: "Forever 21 did not create, design or distribute Love 21 Maternity to target, or appeal specifically to pregnant teens. Any relationship between teen pregnancy rates and the locations of our stores is unintentional." While the "21" in the maternity collection's name echoes the parent brand, the flap also begs the question: so what if Love 21 appeals to moms-to-be of all ages? Don't teens deserve fashionable maternity wear, too? Take it from us: Staying fashionable while pregnant tends to increase the budget in tandem with the belly size, so Love 21's $8.80 cropped leggings and $19.80 cardigans would be welcomed by any mom-to-be. Controversy is nothing new for the brand, which was founded in 1984 by Don Chang, a South Korean immigrant. It has a track record of fashion designers balking at its copycat designs, prompting lawsuits from the likes of Anna Sui and Balenciaga. Chang's original retail moniker of Fashion 21 changed to Forever 21 when its range of trendy, moderately-priced clothes won favor with customers under 21, although it has expanded beyond teen apparel in recent years. Today, the retail chain bills itself as affordable, one-stop shopping for all, with men, kids and women's apparel sections, where high school and college-age shoppers can be found browsing the racks next to career women and moms. read more

(wwd)Retail Stocks Break Into Black for Year

Both retail stocks and the broader market slinked back into the black for the year Monday as investors retraced their steps following a sharp drop in the wake of Europe’s debt crisis and a drop-off in the U.S. consumer’s enthusiasm about spending. The S&P Retail Index rose 1.8 percent, or 7.51 points, to 415.68 Monday, giving the measure of overall retail stocks a 1.1 percent gain for the year. That means investors who bought into retail Monday morning fared better than those trading into the sector almost seven months ago. Retail stocks are still down 16.8 percent from their April high of 499.41. Of the 172 stocks tracked by WWD, The Bon-Ton Stores Inc. had the strongest showing for the second straight trading session with a gain of 11.5 percent to $9.83. Over the two days, shares of the regional department store firm shot up 23 percent despite no apparent developments at the company. Over the past week or so, investors have looked past signs the economic recovery will remain frustratingly tepid and pushed stocks higher on the strength of second-quarter results from big corporations.  And they started off the week with some encouragement from the down — but not totally out — housing sector. Sales of new homes shot up to an annual rate of 330,000 in June, up 23.6 percent from May, according to the Commerce Department. The sales rate is still 16.7 percent below a year earlier but was somewhat better than economists were expecting. The Dow Jones Industrial Average advanced 1 percent, or 100.81 points, to 10,525.43 Monday.  That puts the U.S. market up 0.9 percent for the year. For investors to do better than Wall Street in a major market, they would have had to travel to Frankfurt, where the DAX has posted a 4 percent rise since Dec. 31. Major indexes in London, Paris, Tokyo and Hong Kong are all down for the year. read more

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(wwd)J.P. Morgan: A Personal, but Global, Approach

Investment bankers like Philip Bleser call it a “liquidity event” when the owner of a company cashes out and sells their business. But the sudden ability to keep seven, eight or nine figures in their checking account might elicit something more like “ka-ching!” from everyone else. It’s a moment with which Bleser, managing director and chief executive officer of J.P. Morgan’s midcorporate banking group, has some experience. There have been 38 apparel and retail M&A deals topping $1 billion over the last five years, and J.P. Morgan’s played an advisory role in more than half of them. Still, it’s not all about the money. “We’re in the relationship business,” Bleser said. “There’s crying sometime; it’s a big step” when a company is sold, said Erik Oken, managing director and co-head of retail investment banking. So that’s when Oken goes in for the hug, right? Not exactly. He’s more the type to hunt and fish with clients. But Meredith Vanden Handel, managing director, is ready. “Some of us have hugged,” she said during a group interview in Bleser’s office. “With many clients, this is a family event.” These three, together with executive director Nik Johnston, are a family of sorts, too, and one that seems to genuinely like working together, completing each other’s thoughts. Directing a group that spreads across 22 offices in the U.S. and Canada, the mild-mannered Bleser specializes in commercial and investment banking services for companies with revenues of at least $250 million, or quickly growing firms on their way to that realm. J.P. Morgan has helped nurture brands such as Michael Kors and Tommy Hilfiger as they expanded into the limelight. Bleser spent 70 percent of his time on the road last year, meeting with clients, and he, like the bank overall, is starting to feel better about the economy, while keeping a close eye on job growth.

“There’s uncertainty in the small-business recovery,” he said. “The larger businesses are beginning to hire already.” Many are looking for the quickly growing economies in Asia to provide M&A fireworks, but Bleser said there would be deals made around the world. “Everybody thinks Asia, but it’s not necessarily going to be the case,” he said. “You’ll see Asia and Europe and Latin America and the U.S. all be active. There will be more cross-border opportunity, especially where currencies create opportunity. But what management teams are really after are those brands, those teams and a new distribution channel” that offer growth. Fashion businesses went into cash-conservation mode during the recession and now they face a new, tougher consumer and are looking for expansion opportunities. Oken said executives at companies that in the Nineties could afford to be exclusively in North America are now taking a look at the landscape and asking, “Do I need a new concept? Do I need to expand geographically?” For many, the answer appears to be yes, especially given the decline in U.S. real estate development and the slow economic growth. Investment bankers work hard to understand the industry and then pitch their ideas to executives. “If you’re looking to create personal relationships, that has to be done in person,” Oken said. “I’d love to say I could do that over the phone, but I’m not that charming. What I like is whispering in the ceo’s and cfo’s ears.” That whispering might include a bit more about private equity firms. Although Oken said private equity at its peak only accounted for about a third of the deal flow, the big-money investors are looking to get into deals in new ways. “Private equity firms are trying to figure out a way to successfully integrate themselves into strategic transactions,” Oken said. “The walls between the strategic world and the financial world have broken down.” Dealmakers are a leading indicator of sorts, since it can take 18 months or more to go through the entire acquisition process. “It’s only been a short period of time for companies to review where they are,” said Johnston, adding it hasn’t even been 18 months since the market bottomed out last year. That means fashion M&A could perk up even more down the line. As Vanden Handel noted of retail, “Every season can be a reinvention. There’s always that optimism." read more

(wwd)Reinventing Fashion Via Crowdsourcing

The crowd is taking charge. Thanks to the Internet, the line between designer, consumer and brand is blurring more and more. Large brands and retailers such as Keds, Bloomingdale’s and Nike, as well as small start-ups like ModCloth and Spoonflower, are increasingly setting up businesses in which the consumer gets a say about what is designed and produced. Creators can share and rate each other’s designs. In some cases, anyone can create a design and get paid when someone else orders it.  Major brands and retailers see crowdsourcing as a way to increase customer loyalty, while smaller firms build entire businesses from it. And in a fashion democracy that already is accelerating at an alarming rate, ultimately anyone could be a designer, creator or manufacturer, with profound implications for the structure of the fashion and retail worlds, as well as the overall economy. Analysts estimate that crowd-sourced and customized products could eventually make up as much as 10 percent of the total market for apparel, accessories and footwear. “If you make the technology and tools accessible to large enough numbers of people, you have the possibilities of new industries evolving and the balance of power shifting,” said Stephen Fraser, co-founder of Spoonflower, which custom prints fabric by the yard. “The textile industry — and the same is true of the apparel industry and the craft fabric industry — their whole bread and butter for decades has been trying to predict what people will want. There’s a huge apparatus for selecting what’s going to be popular. [Our business] is really different from the traditional product marketing and manufacturing mentality, where you’re trying to figure out what people are going to want and creating a demand for whatever product you’ve developed.” The new businesses borrow elements from crowdsourcing, mass customization and group buying or simply exploit the Internet’s capacity for assembling ad hoc groups of people around a common interest or purpose, no matter how fleeting. read more

(fashionscollective)Does Digital Mean the End of Control?

Possibly one of the most significant obstacles for luxury brands when faced with digital marketing is the fear of losing control…and rightfully so. Historically, luxury has translated to exclusive. The idea that access was not widely attainable made luxury brands, and goods, covetable. As the internet launched and gained momentum and warp speed, it brought with it full and totalinclusion. Anyone with an internet connection, anywhere around the globe, can access a brand, twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week. Social media has staged a coup d’etat on the brand marketers by distributing images, commentary and content throughout vast social networks without the permission, and often even acknowledgement, of the brand itself. With now 500 million people on Facebook, and the number of internet users growing exponentially across the world, brands need to figure out how to participate in online communication, but does this mean losing control? read more

Cathy Horyn talks about Snooki's past and her new celebrity in the New York Times. Here it is if don't already know enough about the Snooks, Snooki's Time.

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(wwd)Inflation Could Return To the World of Fashion

Life is getting more expensive in the fashion world, and consumers could get stuck with some of the bill. “The era of apparel deflation is now over,” said Richard Noll, chairman and chief executive officer of Hanesbrands Inc. Cotton prices are up more than 50 percent from a year ago, labor and transportation expenses are rising and factories that closed during the recession remain dark, keeping a cap on supply as demand perks up. To top it off, Chinese officials have become more willing to allow the yuan to appreciate against the dollar, which could make goods made in the country even more expensive. “You’re starting to see price increases come through the entire supply chain, not just from commodity costs, but also from a supply and demand imbalance,” Noll said. “There is no question that costs are working their way through the supply chain and you will see a broad-based increase, I think, in retail prices for apparel in 2011.” The industry is also working on tighter inventories and pushing suppliers for quicker turns. Noll said his company had spent $15 million more on air freight so far this year to bring in goods from Central America and Asia. “When you’re running with such short lead times, you need to speed it up and air freight is just a lot more expensive than ocean freight,” he said. In that vein, Columbia Sportswear Co. also said Thursday it had incurred increased costs to “expedite production and delivery of fall orders to customers.” Retailers and vendors would like nothing more than to pass the additional expense on to consumers. That will be a tall order given an unemployment rate of 9.5 percent, a sharp downturn in consumer confidence over the past month and what Eric Wiseman, chairman and ceo of VF Corp., described as an apparent “pause” in the recovery.  Still there’s a growing sense that the pressures building in the supply chain will sooner or later make their way to the consumer. It could be a rude awakening after more than a decade of shrinking price tags. According to Commerce Department figures, apparel prices hit their high in 1992 and have fallen each year since with just two exceptions, including last year when prices inched up 0.6 percent. Even with the increase, apparel in 2009 cost a staggering 20.4 percent less than it did 17 years earlier. read more

(LA Times)Gift shops go glam: High-end hotels are collaborating with designers

Luxury hotel chains are upping the ante on their retail offerings by bringing in exclusive items and, in some cases, designing their own. In an era of global sameness, they have opted to offer unique, localized experiences. The Standard hotels (including the property in downtown Los Angeles) are collaborating for the second year with surf lifestyle brand Quiksilver, selling board shorts ($75), bikinis and sunglasses (both $88) in poolside vending machines. The Morgans Hotel Group has hosted a series of curated retail stores, the newest in West Hollywood at the Mondrian, where Los Angeles-based retailer Ron Robinson has opened a pop-up shop with handpicked merchandise such as exclusive Pamela Love T-shirts ($25), as well as Stephen Webster jewelry and Apothia beauty products. "As we get more design-oriented hotels, the idea will continue to percolate," said Bruce Baltin, a hotel industry analyst and senior vice president of Colliers PKF Consulting USA, a management consulting firm in Los Angeles that covers the hospitality industry. "It's a point of differentiation. And now that you have designers like Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani getting into the hotel business, they will pair that with retail opportunities as well." Historically, W Hotels have been innovators in hotel gift shops, with the first W store opening at the W Times Square in 2001. "From the beginning, the concept was designed to go beyond the basic idea of providing the same 400-thread-count sheets that are in the rooms," said Eva Ziegler, W's global brand leader (yes, that's her title; she's in charge of the chain's growth strategy). In the past, the resort chain has targeted Diane von Furstenberg to create a Fashion Emergency Kit (a black wrap dress and thong underwear) for its stores, and Michael Kors to design staff uniforms. But in February, Ziegler hired an expert, naming Amanda Ross, a stylist and designer consultant, to the newly created post of fashion director. So far, Ross has attended fashion weeks on the hotel's behalf, consulted on uniforms for new properties and helped select designers for the Global Glam collection of apparel created especially for the chain and sold in all 17 W Hotel stores. The store at the W Times Square feels like a trendy Robertson Boulevard boutique, with $80 Melissa brand jelly shoes, $275 jeweled caftans and gift books with such cheeky titles as "Is Your Dog Gay?" If there were exclusive products, they weren't obvious, but the merchandise is a far cry from garish costume jewelry and packages of dried fruit and nuts that one might associate with a hotel gift shop. read more

(wwd)Fast Retailing to Close Small Japanese Apparel Operation

"Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. said Thursday it plans to shutter five of its small women's apparel brands in a move to boost the efficiency of its other businesses. The corporate parent of Uniqlo said it has decided to discontinue the product lines as of early next year. The brands concerned, which include Zazie and Enraciné, are small lines targeting young Japanese women. Cabin, the division that manages the brands, will be merged into another Fast Retailing subsidiary: Link Theory Japan. Fast Retailing said the restructuring will generate 3 billion yen, or about $34 million, of extraordinary losses for the fiscal year ending August 31. A spokesman said those losses will "impact" the company's current profit target, which it already cut earlier this month on uneven sales of spring items. The company said just two weeks ago it was expecting its full-year net profit to rise 35.6 percent to 67.5 billion yen, or $774.82 million at current exchange. Fast Retailing said it had spent the last few years trying to make Cabin a significant part of its women's business but ultimately decided to liquidate the brands. "The current business climate in the women's wear retail industry continues to be unfavorable, due to the changing lifestyles and tastes of the young female consumers," the company said. Cabin's retail network consists of about 198 stores in Japan. Fast Retailing said it will examine Cabin's current store locations and may switch some of them over to other Fast Retailing brands. The spokesman specified that these spaces are unlikely to become Uniqlo stores due to their smaller size. read more

(NYT)Shoppers on a ‘Diet’ Tame the Urge to Buy

Imagine that horrible though all-too-familiar feeling: You are standing before a fully stuffed closet and yet have nothing to wear. Now, imagine something worse: Your closet contains only six items, and you are restricted to wearing only those six items for an entire month. Now, if you can bear it, imagine something unspeakable: No one notices. Nearly a month into what amounted to just such a self-inflicted fast of fashion, Stella Brennan, 31, an insurance sales executive from Kenosha, Wis., realized last week that not even her husband, Kelly, a machinist, had yet figured out that she had been wearing the same six items, over and over, since June 21. The sad punch line is that Mr. Brennan is the one who actually does the laundry in the family. During her experiment — something called a “shopping diet,” actually — which ended on Wednesday, Ms. Brennan made do with the following: a black blazer and pants from H & M; two button-down shirts, one black and one pink; a pair of Old Navy jeans; and one well-worn pink T-shirt. How she settled on those items was complicated by the fact that she has two young children, a golden retriever and three cats, and that she was starting a new job last month with an hourlong commute. She said she needed “six items that are animal-hair-, kid-, food- and wrinkle-resistant. I need these items to be professional, but also work for playing football with my son and tea parties.” She agonized the longest over the T-shirt — the button-down shirts and suit separates were for work, but the right T-shirt could be worn casually with jeans or dressed up with the blazer. Her revelation at the end of 31 days, after her husband still had not noticed, even when she wore her floral-printed pajamas to do yard work: “Obviously, I didn’t need all of these clothes.”  This self-imposed exercise in frugality was prompted by a Web challenge called Six Items or Less (sixitemsorless.com). The premise was to go an entire month wearing only six items already found in your closet (not counting shoes, underwear or accessories). Nearly 100 people around the country, and in faraway places like Dubai and Bangalore, India, were also taking part in the regimen, with motives including a way to trim back on spending, an outright rejection of fashion, and a concern that the mass production and global transportation of increasingly cheap clothing was damaging the environment. read more

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(wwd)Target Takes Manhattan

Isabel and Rueben Toledo Towel for Target

Target expects its first Manhattan store at East River Plaza, which opens Sunday to conservatively do $60 million to $70 million in annual sales, but is hoping for a volume of $100 million to $115 million, according to sources. The 110,000-square-foot store marks a big step for the $63.5 billion Target after years of searching for a site in New York City. “East River Plaza provides for single-level layouts for the retailers,” said Peter Ripka, a partner in Ripco Real Estate and the project’s leasing agent. “It’s more akin to [Target’s] suburban operations and very familiar to their customers.” It may be difficult for Target to find single floor space in Manhattan for its next store. “[Target] has turned the spigot on again and is now actively looking in Manhattan,” said a source close to the company. “They’re considering some things along the West Side. It may depend on how the [Harlem] store comes out of the box. Target’s Atlantic Terminal store in Brooklyn was a huge success and is consistently one of the top-performing stores in the chain. A lot of customers are going there from lower Manhattan. You can bet Target is going to study where the Harlem store’s shoppers are coming from.” Target already knows that many of its future customers live in the neighborhood. The store appeals to those multiethnic residents with signage in English and Spanish and graphics featuring African-American, Hispanic and white models. “The East Harlem Target is unique to the area due to its urban setting,” said Trish Adams, senior vice president of Target. “The merchandise has been tailored based on shopping patterns and the demographics of the neighborhood. We’ll offer an edited assortment overall, with more space devoted to commodities, basics for the home and items for apartment dwellers such as storage solutions and air beds.” Target’s latest salvo in the price wars, announced Wednesday, is Back in Black Friday. The online event Friday is a play on promotions that usually occur on the day after Thanksgiving. For women, offers will include Zebra rain boots, $15, a 40 percent savings; Mossimo maxidresses, $21.99, buy one, get one free, and a Soap and Glory set for $7.99, a 47 percent savings. read more

(wwd)Luxe Spending Rises, but Apparel Lags

Luxury spending is on the rise, but apparel isn’t feeling the love.  The country’s richest consumers will drive luxury spending up between 6 and 8 percent this year, according to a survey of affluent Americans conducted by American Express Publishing Corp. and Harrison Group, but apparel is unlikely to benefit. Apparel spending by these consumers has recovered somewhat, but continues to slide, falling 5 percent in the first quarter and 4 percent in the second quarter. By comparison, apparel spending by this group slid 8 percent during the fourth quarter of 2008 and 9 percent in the first quarter of last year.  Overall spending by the most affluent 10 percent of the U.S. population is expected to surge $56 billion this year versus 2009, and half that amount is expected to go toward the purchase of luxury products. Harrison Group vice chairman Jim Taylor told WWD at a Luxury Marketing Council presentation in New York Wednesday that apparel spending is generally discretionary and not a necessity. “It has become an event-driven business,” he said. “Still, I think it will be a pretty good Christmas.” The survey polled 1,910 respondents from households with incomes representing the top 10 percent of the American population. These consumers collectively account for 50 percent of all retail sales and 70 percent of all retail margins. This group also holds about 80 percent of all non-retirement account assets. read more

(wsj)Fashion Sites Try to Lure Guys

GiltMan.com

Online fashion shopping sites like Gilt Groupe and Rue La La have been a hit with women since launching over the last three years. A new push to get men to shop in these web boutiques is proving more difficult. As they struggle to figure out ways to reel in male shoppers, the sites are throwing all sorts of things at the wall to see what sticks, including offering sporting gear and gadgets (a high-end ax, anyone?) and making virtual men-only shopping areas so guys won't have to scroll through women's fashions. Gilt Groupe, a two-year-old site that holds limited-time only "flash" discount sales of designer merchandise, added sports gear such as golf clubs and surfboards last fall when it introduced a separate site for guys. Ideeli, a three-year-old flash-sales site, plans to add a men's section with clothing plus sporting goods, gadgets and packaged travel outings aimed at men. Meanwhile, high-end fashion retailer Net-A-Porter announced in June that it would launch Mr. Porter, a dedicated men's-only site, next January. Rue La La, which launched in 2008, plans to "quadruple" the amount of men's brands it carries this year, says CEO Ben Fischman. Though these sites are familiar to many women, they are hardly household names among men. Women make up 75% of Gilt's 2.5 million members, and the numbers are similar for its rivals: women represent 90% of HauteLook's 2.7 million members and 70% of the 1.8 million members at Rue La La. When BIGresearch asked a little more than 8,000 men to write down which sites they shopped for clothes most often, among the top 10 were Amazon, Wal-Mart, eBay, Macy's and Lands' End. Gilt, HauteLook, and Rue La La weren't mentioned. And in general, men's online spending trails women's—$4.3 billion compared with $9.6 billion during the 12-month period that ended in April, according to market researcher NPD Group.

So why bother with guy shoppers? Because when it comes to the upper income consumers that these sites target, men may buy less than women, but they spend more. Affluent men, those with income levels in the top 20% of U.S. households, spent an average of $3,970 on Internet purchases during the fourth quarter of 2009 compared with $1,958 for women, according to Unity Marketing. read more

(guardian)Are the Guccis fashion's most quarrelsome family?

This week's amusing fashion news story brings bad tidings for Elisabetta Gucci, who is being sued by the Gucci Group for, essentially, being called Gucci. She is the great-grandaughter of Gucci founder Guccio Gucci, so it's not like she isn't one of those Guccis, plus she worked for the Gucci Group until 1995, but now she has had the temerity to plan a group of hotels which will be called Elisabetta Gucci Hotels. Shall we rearrange the words "freaks" and "control"? Has anyone ever used the word Gucci so many times in one paragraph before? Questions, questions. The Gucci Group told WWD "Gucci wants to make clear that it has no relationship to Elisabetta Gucci Hotels and that it is not involved in any project whatsoever with Elisabetta Gucci Hotels." FS is beginning to feel rather sorry for her now. Her managing director (of the hotels, we assume, not her personally) retorted that "Elisabetta Gucci is doing her job. She cannot cancel her name or her background. If she has a famous name or a famous background, that's not her fault and we are not trying to use it as much." FS finds itself rather intrigued by that last word. Simple misquote? Or Freudian slip? As much as what - or should we ask, whom? Elisabetta should probably consider herself lucky to be facing a mere lawsuit, for the Gucci family have a notorious history of feuds, fights and somewhat darker affairs. Paolo Gucci was once the chief designer at the company, and the man who created the famous double 'G' logo. But he kept up a long-running trademark battle with the company after they fired him over his management practices. His father Aldo tried to stop him, so Paolo shopped him for tax evasion, which led to a prison sentence. Oh, and Paolo was imprisoned himself for failling to pay child support. Later, one of Paolo's daughters and his ex-wife were also taken to court and banned from using the family name on the grounds that doing so "infringed and diluted" the Gucci trademark. All this, however, is positively friendly by Gucci standards. Back in 1998 Patrizia Reggiani was jailed for 26 years for arranging the murder of her estranged husband, Maurizio Gucci. When investigating the crime, Italian police found her diary, in which she had written ''There is no crime that money cannot buy" - and, on the day he was shot, the single word entry read "paradise". That, FS friends, is what's known as a bit of a clue. Ridley Scott is now rumoured to be making a film of this delightful episode. Who can he have in mind for the role of Patrizia, a woman who once claimed "I would rather weep in a Rolls-Royce than be happy on a bicycle?" And surely Tom Ford - once Gucci creative director and now feted film maker - would be the perfect director? read more

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(wwd)Lanvin to Open First New York Store

“We’re the last designer house in the world that didn’t have a store in New York,” said Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz. And now it has one. Lanvin is poised to open at the end of the week its first location here at 815 Madison Avenue near 68th Street. The store will occupy 3,550 square feet and the first three floors of a 6,875-square-foot, five-story town house. The two upper floors will become the company’s corporate headquarters in September. “It’s about time,” Elbaz said by phone from France. “It took us four years to put it together. We’re really slow. I can’t tell you how proud I am” that the store is opening.  The designer said the raw space dictated in part what the finished store would look like. “I’m not very flagship oriented,” he said. “We don’t take a concept that we opened in Paris or Tokyo [and replicate it]. We have to go with the structure of the store and the architecture. Sometimes when I work with a fabric it has a mind of its own. I have to listen to the fabrics. Some are very stubborn. The easiest thing is to do a white box.”  Lanvin’s flagship is definitely not a white box. In the main display window, Schläppi mannequins, their white faces painted with red cupid’s-bow lips, hold birdcages. The ground floor resembles a residential apartment from the Twenties, the decade when the house’s founder, Jeanne-Marie Lanvin, was at the height of her career. read more

(the cut) Six Things We Learned From Diane Von Furstenberg’s TimesTalk

Diane Von Furstenberg has been in the biz since "antiquity," she joked during last night's TimesTalks panel, which also featured Norma Kamali, Prabal Gurung, and Fern Mallis. And though she knows a thing or two about timelessness, as evidenced by her ever-popular wrap dresses, she also works hard to keep abreast of current social happenings (Twitter) and Next Big Things (China, for one). Best of all, she's never stingy with her two cents. Click ahead to read six pieces of wisdom gleaned straight from the D to the V to the F.

1. Leopard print will never go out of style.

2. Be careful with Twitter, lest you offend the Spanish government.

3. Fashion would exist with or without designers.

4. Soon, China will be buying our products.

5. She's kind of over talking about wrap dresses, but it's cool that women still wear them. Especially when women wear them and get jobs or get laid.

6. You don't need a signature look to survive in the industry.

click to read what DVF said about each.

(wwd)TJX Canadian Push

The TJX Cos. Inc. said Tuesday that it will open its first Marshalls store in Canada in the spring as part of a six-unit rollout in the country next year. Like TJX’s Winners, HomeSense and StyleSense nameplates, the Marshalls stores will be managed by the company’s TJX Canada group. Carol Meyrowitz, president and chief executive officer of Framingham, Mass.-based TJX, said TJX Canada provides the company “our highest financial returns” and estimated the country could ultimately support 90 to 100 Marshalls units. No specific locations for the Marshalls stores were disclosed. In the U.S., Marshalls is part of the Marmaxx Group and operates 819 off-price units in 42 states and Puerto Rico. TJX entered the Canadian market through its 1990 acquisition of Winners, which has 208 stores in Canada. Last year, TJX’s sales rose 6.8 percent to $20.29 billion.

(wsj)Wal-Mart Is Sued Over Care

Wal-Mart Stores Inc. is facing a potentially costly legal challenge in Colorado, where a class-action lawsuit accuses the world's largest retailer of conspiring to limit medical care for injured employees in a bid to save money. The lawsuit alleges that Wal-Mart broke state and federal laws by using a subsidiary to control the treatment for employees with workplace injuries. Wal-Mart sent the injured workers to clinics run by Concentra Inc., which operates 300 medical centers and 250 workplace clinics in 40 states. The suit, filed last year in the U.S. District Court for Colorado on behalf of roughly 7,000 current and former Wal-Mart employees in the state, accuses Wal-Mart, Concentra and insurer American Home Assurance Co., part of American International Group Inc., of conspiring to violate a Colorado worker's compensation law that bars companies from dictating medical care for workers hurt on the job. Lawyers for Wal-Mart, Concentra and American Home deny the allegations. "The health and wellness of our associates is important to Wal-Mart, and we want our associates to get the best treatment and care," said Wal-Mart spokesman Greg Rossiter. Lawyers for the Wal-Mart employees suggested the retailer could face similar legal action in other states, such as New York, Texas, Wisconsin, Arizona, Iowa, and Oklahoma, which likewise bar companies from dictating injured workers' care. "The motivation here is clearly to save Wal-Mart money," said Solomon B. Cera, a San Francisco attorney on the legal team representing the plaintiffs. In Colorado, like other states, the law gives employees with on-the-job injuries the right to file medical-care claims against their employer. Most companies carry insurance policies to pay such claims. Wal-Mart is self- insured in much of the U.S., but uses American Home as its carrier in Colorado. Employers have the right to choose the doctors injured employers see, but Colorado requires them to pay for all "reasonable and necessary" treatment their designated doctors recommend, and to refrain from interfering with physician's care decisions. The state is the referee in any dispute. read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Holiday Preview

Cold Comfort: Specialty Stores Offer Cozy Items for Holiday

LOFT Loft was all about the mix for holiday, whether it was a sporty shearling jacket worn with a printed dress or a blazer with a ruffled blouse and faux-fur necklet. Knitwear was also prominently featured — in chunky sweaters and cardigans, as well as details on outerwear.

CLUB MONACO Club Monaco worked a masculine-feminine counterpoint for holiday by mixing romantic pieces such as lace tap shorts with classic men’s wear styles like tailored coats and chunky knits. In accessories, gloves in black leather or shearling, long and short, were the key items.

GAP “We’re making holiday all about you,” said Patrick Robinson, executive vice president of design. “All anybody wants as a gift today is electronics. So we’re offering clothes for you to fall in love with yourself. If you love it, then you’ll buy it for somebody else.” That translated into superlightweight puffer jackets, skinny jeans and sweaters in a variety of hues designed to be worn in layers.

TALBOTS Strong outerwear and feminine details were the message at Talbots. The collection featured coats for every occasion, from tailored day looks to satin evening styles, as well as faux fur and puffer looks.

(nyt)Trying to Make the Fashion Life Look Glamorous

Edwin Gierbolini is an account excutive with the Swiss luxury clothing company Akris. Not everyone gets his style sense.

Ever since I was a kid I was into fashion. So it’s no surprise that I work in the industry. My job requires a lot of travel, and I think I’m in a plane more than some pilots and flight attendants. When I’m flying, I sometimes feel like I live in my own little bubble. That becomes very clear when I’m sitting next to someone who is working on a presentation with a lot of numbers and graphs and I’m sorting through pictures of jackets and skirts. The looks I get from seatmates are priceless. It’s worse, though, when I rush to my seat and then pull the things I need to review out of my carry-on. Those things can be a dress and a pair of stockings. I think some of my seatmates want to move away from me, but the plane is usually full. I almost always make a point to talk to my seatmates and explain what I do for a living. Once people get over their initial reactions, both women and men will start to ask for fashion advice. I always give the same answer: Don’t be afraid of trying something new. I find that, for the most part, people appreciate fashion on some level even though it’s not like I’m curing cancer or saving the planet. But people have a skewed view of the industry. They think it’s all about the glamour, the jet-setting and the fabulous parties. Who am I to burst their bubbles and let them in on the reality that it’s a lot of hard work in a very tough, very competitive business? Sure it can be a lot of fun, but the last really fabulous party that I could let loose at was back in college with my fraternity. If I make a spectacle of myself on the plane, it’s usually worse when I have to get my luggage. I often have to travel with multiple pieces of checked gear, sometimes up to 10 suitcases. If I go overseas, it can be up to 20 cases. As I load the stuff on a cart or three and then try and make my way through the airport, people actually do point and stare. That’s because I’m usually out of breath and probably look like I’m about to pass out as I’m pushing the carts. Sometimes I’ll put on a scarf and big sunglasses and try and fool them into thinking I’m someone famous rather than a guy who is just doing his job. I know I’m not fooling anyone, but it makes me feel better. read more

(wsj)Internet Retailer Yoox Confident of U.S. Growth

Internet fashion retailer Yoox SpA is confident it will continue to grow in North America even if the U.S. consumer mood darkens, said the Italian company's chief executive and chairman Monday. Any adverse economic event would only have "a marginal impact" on the growth of the e-commerce sector, which is on the rise, said Federico Marchetti, adding that "we are just at the beginning of the [e-commerce] story, not in the middle and not at the end." Yoox, which listed on the Milan stock exchange in December, has become a bellwether for investors tracking the luxury industry's transition to the Internet. Many luxury brands once snubbed the Internet, convinced that online shopping was a poor substitute for the pampering customers receive at brick-and-mortar boutiques. In the wake of the financial crisis, however, the relative low cost of Internet retailing has lured designers like Giorgio Armani and Roberto Cavalli, who have tapped Yoox to design and operate their websites. The U.S. is currently Yoox's second-largest market by revenue after Italy but has the potential to be its main revenue driver by the end of 2011, Mr. Marchetti said. He added that "we expect the U.S. market to rise at double-digit growth in the coming quarters and in the following years." Yoox's U.S. revenue more than doubled to €9.5 million ($12 million) in the first quarter and accounted for 19% of total revenue thanks to "a strong recovery" from the global recession and improved local organization, Yoox said in May. Yoox Corp., the U.S. subsidiary of Yoox SpA, appointed Mark Lee, former CEO of the Gucci brand, to its board this month. Mr. Marchetti said his appointment will provide "a lot of support" for the company's further development in the U.S. market. For the first quarter of 2010, Yoox reported an increase in net profit to €2 million from €400,000, while revenue rose to €50.3 million, up 43% from €35.1 million a year earlier. The company had an average of 8.8 million visitors on its websites each month. Mr. Marchetti also said he has no concerns about the second-quarter results, due Aug. 5, and is confident of meeting analysts' expectations for the full year. He confirmed that Yoox is investing "time and resources" to enter the Chinese market within the first six months of 2011, adding that details on the project will be disclosed toward the end of this year. Yoox's concept is to buy up last season's items from upscale fashion houses and sell them at discount prices on its website, but the company also operates 20 online monobrand stores for top designers including Giorgio Armani, Valentino and Roberto Cavalli. read more

(wwd)Hermés Posts 27 Percent Sales Jump

Sales at Hermès International jumped 27 percent in the second quarter to 567 million euros, or $723.5 million, versus 446.6 million euros, or $608.3 million, in the year-ago period. During the first half of the year, sales totaled 1.07 billion euros, or $1.43 billion, up 22.8 percent from 874.9 million euros, or $1.17 billion, during the same period last year. Dollar figures are converted from euros at average exchange rates for the periods to which they refer. “The growth rate registered in the first six months cannot recur in the second half owing to a less favorable comparison basis,” Hermès said in a statement. “However, owing to an excellent second quarter beyond expectations, sales growth target for the year ranges between 10 percent to 12 percent at constant exchange rates.” In the three months ended June 30, the French luxury firm posted a solid performance in its own stores — up 27.7 percent — with all key divisions showing strong increases. Sales of leather goods were up 31.5 percent, while ready-to-wear and fashion accessories posted a 25.7 percent rise. Sales of silk and textiles, including the company’s iconic silk scarves, rose 24.3 percent. Wholesale revenues were up 19.8 percent in the second quarter, with most of the increase due to watches, which saw sales rise 35.9 percent as consumers regained their appetite for luxury timepieces. Perfume sales were up 16.9 percent, helped by the launch of Voyage d’Hermès, though the increase was down from the 38.1 percent jump registered in the first quarter. In regional terms, non-Japan Asia registered the strongest performance in the quarter, up 57.1 percent, with the Americas up 35.5 percent and Europe – excluding France – up 26.3 percent. In Japan, sales were up 10 percent. read more

(wwd)Swiss Watch Exports Spike 35 Percent in June

For the second time in 2010, Swiss watch exports registered a monthly increase of more than 30 percent. In June, foreign sales of Swiss watches increased 35 percent year-on-year to 1.45 billion Swiss francs, or $1.28 billion, driven largely by bimetallic watches and gold timepieces, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry said. Dollar figures are converted at average exchange rates for the period to which they refer. “All price segments registered an increase in June, with rates of growth rising in proportion to the value of watches,” the federation stated. Sales in Hong Kong, the largest market for Swiss timepieces, rose 58.6 percent, while China’s business grew 69 percent. For the first half of 2010, foreign sales of Swiss watches grew 19.7 percent to 7.3 billion Swiss francs, or $6.75 billion, almost the same level as in 2007. read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(nbc)Something Lingering in the Lingerie? Bed Bugs Hit Victoria's Secret

Victoria's Secret had to close for a few hours this week after a bed bug sighting in the store on Lexington Avenue at 58th Street. The lingerie retailer released a statement on Friday saying: "As a proactive measure, we tested our Manhattan stores.  When we found small, isolated areas that may have been impacted, we immediately took action to resolve the situation." The buggy discovery at this underwear retailer follows recent exterminations at Manhattan locations of Abercrombie and Fitch and Hollister. Not to mention thousands of complaints from New York City residents that these little nocturnal pests have been creeping around with increasing regularity. "They're hard to kill," said Lou Sorkin, a leading bug expert at the American Museum of Natural History. New York health officials say the good news is bed bugs are not particularly dangerous, because they don't spread disease and up to 30 percent of humans don't feel the bites one bit. That's small comfort for Upper East Siders who've seen a rash of bed bugs in the high-priced co-ops of East End Avenue, among other tony addresses "This woman I know couldn't sleep," said writer Lisa Birnbach. "Because she felt they were around her. It'll turn anyone into a lunatic. And great for our real estate values. Thanks alot." read more

(wwd)CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalists Named

The designers are: Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra, Christian Cota, Prabal Gurung, Robert Geller, Eddie Borgo, Oliver Helden and Paul Marlow of Loden Dager, Pamela Love of Pamela Love Jewelry, Moss Lipow, Gregory Parkinson and Billy Reid. “This year’s 10 finalists show a depth of creativity and talent that is inspiring to the industry as a whole,” said Steven Kolb, executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “The designers’ compelling portfolios clearly demonstrate that the future of American fashion is expansive and bright.”  The fashion fund, now in its seventh year, was created by the CFDA and Vogue magazine to help cultivate emerging talents with a combination of a cash prize and a mentorship program by industry leaders. Previous winners are: Sophie Theallet, Alexander Wang, Rogan Gregory of Rogan, Doo-Ri Chung, Trovata and Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough. The winner receives an award of $200,000, and the two runners-up take home as much as $50,000 each. The fund’s Selection Committee will meet this month with each of the 10 finalists and discuss their most recent collections. Committee members will also visit the finalists’ studios. Each finalist is being asked to participate in a design project underwritten by Ann Taylor, and will create a unique look for it. They will also be a part of a fashion show underwritten by Frédéric Fekkai on Oct. 19 at the Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles. The 2010 winner and runners-up will be named on Nov. 15 at a gala underwritten by eBay.  The fund is sponsored by J. Crew, and underwritten by Vogue, Theory, Nordstrom, American Express, Barneys New York, Appleman Foundation, L’Oréal Paris, Juicy Couture, Coach, Liz Claiborne Inc. and Lord & Taylor.  “Fashion is probably the only industry in the world where its fledgling talents are expected to be as creatively adept at running a business as they are at design,” said Anna Wintour, Vogue’s editor in chief. “Many, clearly, are not, and it’s through the support of the fund that these promising designers will be able to build a future for themselves—and for American fashion.” read more

(miami herald)Swimwear fashion events are taking over Miami Beach

Think of it as the Art Basel of the swimwear world: dripping with international cache, spawning new events each year, filling Miami Beach hotels and dropping millions of dollars into the South Florida economy. And even art collectors may agree it's sexier showcasing bikinis than Boteros. Swimwear designers, models, retailers, fashion show producers and international press are all descending on Miami Beach this weekend for the largest and most important swimwear trade show in the world, SwimShow 2011 -- plus various fashion shows and ancillary events surrounding it. The recognition they bring to Miami -- videos shown round the world, photos gracing the pages of magazines -- make the events the pinnacle of the summer, said Rolando Aedo, senior vice president of marketing at the Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau. "We're the epicenter of sensualness and sexiness on the global scale, and this further validates that point,'' he said. SwimShow 2011 begins Saturday at the Miami Beach Convention Center and runs through Tuesday, as the opening show of the swimwear season worldwide, where 350 manufacturers, with 2,000 lines, will reveal for the first time next year's collections to more than 2,500 buyers. In all, 7,500 people are expected to flow through the convention center for the show, said Judy Stein, executive director of the Swimwear Association of Florida, which has produced the trade show in the Miami area for more than two decades. SwimShow 2011, which Aedo said brings in $1.2 million alone, is the forerunner for other events, and has cemented Miami Beach's position on the swimwear map. "I absolutely feel that Miami Beach is the swimwear capital of the world,'' Stein said. Meanwhile, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim, a series of sexy fashion shows at Miami Beach's Raleigh Hotel, kicked off its sixth year with a Trina Turk fashion show and party Thursday night. In all, 26 designers' fashions will parade on the runway during the evenings, by invitation only, through Monday. The event, which brings in models, hair and makeup people, lighting and sound producers, and other planners who prepare for weeks, has tripled in size during the last three years, said Peter Levy, senior vice president and managing director of IMG Fashion Worldwide, which produces the show. read more

(wwd)Norma Kamali Designing Sleepwear for Wal-Mart

Norma Kamali will launch her first line of sleepwear on walmart.com Oct. 10. The sleepwear, which eventually will be sold in stores, joins other apparel and accessories categories such as dresses, outerwear, sweaters and skirts that Kamali has been designing as a lifestyle brand for Wal-Mart since 2007 under her name. The capsule collection of eight styles, rendered in a butter-soft blend of cotton and Modal, is sized for both the contemporary misses’ customer in sizes XS to XXL and a modern plus-size line in 1X to 3X. The same styles and colors will be featured in both the average size and plus-size lines. “Wal-Mart is working with suppliers who are professional, efficient and really want to make it work,” Kamali said. “The looks are comfortable and beautiful.” Suggested retail for the average-size line is $8 to $12, and the plus-size group is $9 to $14. Ready-to-wear-inspired styles include a knit boyfriend shirt, a cardigan wrap robe and six styles in lightweight jersey — a crewneck sleep T-shirt, a sleep shirt with an oversize ciré peace sign logo, lounge leggings, a long lounge gown that looks like a slinky evening gown, a sleep tank and a wide-leg sleep pant. Solid colors are dark heather gray, pale pink and dark gray heather, and there are also light gray stripes. “There are two worlds at Wal-Mart, the store for the people, where people shop for groceries, which I do, and slide by and buy a dress or a pair of jeans,” Kamali said. “Then, there’s the customer who likes to shop online. Now, there is a new, more sophisticated customer who is now shopping at Wal-Mart stores and online. I may have contributed to this, but it also could be due to the economy.” Regarding plus sizes, Kamali, said: “I realized that I never thought I was designing for plus-size women when I was designing the collection. But then I noticed that the XLs were selling and I thought, I need to focus on plus sizes because this woman likes what I’m doing. So I thought I’ll do something that I can wear and the plus-size woman can wear, too. I never thought I would be ecstatic about designing plus-size sleepwear.” Asked if lingerie will be her next project, Kamali replied: “I’ve started with sleepwear and we’ll see what happens.…[Wal-Mart has] to ask me to do it. Everything is very strategic. read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(babble)Maternity Fashion For Teens

Forever 21 sells affordable fashion to a mostly under-21 demographic. However, they have dabbled  Menswear, Children's wear and now... Maternity!? Perhaps we can thank MTV shows like I'm 16 and Pregnant for this for this new market. Don't get us wrong, affordable fashion is important, but we just can't help but wonder if this is a new trend we will see in the near future- teen maternity lines:

"Youth-focused trend-purveyors Forever 21 are proving the point with a new maternity wear for their (largely teenaged) customers. Some people are wondering whether a clothing line that sells primarily to teens should be doing a maternity line at all. Is selling maternity clothes to teens marketing teen pregnancy? Or are we beyond that by now? As Heather at Kidglue jokes: “If you’re a pregnant teenager, no doubt the first thought that crosses your mind is, “Darn, if only I could get my hands on some trendy and affordable maternity clothes!”  (I mean, what else could you possibly have to worry about?)” She also points out that the in-store locations are conveniently located in the states with the highest teen pregnancy rates. The Love 21 Maternity line is fashion-forward and wallet-friendly, not unlike Forever 21’s other offerings. And like their other offerings, these clothes will probably be worn by women who are well over the under-21 target audience. (Forever 35 doesn’t have quite the same ring.) read more

(wwd)Levi’s Loss Expands in Second Quarter

"Levi Strauss & Co. said its second-quarter loss widened as financing costs erased the positive effects of higher sales and margins and advantageous currency swings. For the three months ended May 30, the net loss attributable to the San Francisco-based denim and sportswear firm rose to $14.4 million from $4.1 million in the year-ago period. Included in the bottom-line result was a $16.6 million pretax loss on the early extinguishment of debt. Operating income, exclusive of the debt effect, was up 23.4 percent to $69.2 million from $56.1 million a year ago. Sales rose 8.1 percent to $958 million, versus $886.5 million in the 2009 quarter, and licensing revenue grew 3.2 percent to $18.6 million from $18 million. Total revenues moved up 8 percent to $976.5 million from $904.5 million, and gross margin rose 522 basis points to 51.1 percent of sales against 45.9 percent in the year-ago period. The company said that the improvement reflected the increased contribution of the company’s stores and their higher margins compared to wholesale operations. In the Americas, sales were up 8 percent, to $558 million, and grew 6 percent on a constant currency basis. In Europe, sales increased 9 percent, to $240 million, and gained 7 percent at constant currency. Asia-Pacific sales hit $178 million, an 8 percent rise that, upon conversion for currency effects, translated into a 2 percent decline. “We continue to invest behind the brands,” John Anderson, president and chief executive officer, said on a conference call with analysts. “We believe we have a compelling consumer proposition. We selectively look to continue to invest in retail. It’s a battle.”  He said Japan continues to detract from results in the Asia-Pacific region, but added that he was somewhat encouraged by results in Europe: “If there’s good news, it is that there is no further deterioration.” read more

(wwd)EBay Ups Fashion Game With iPhone App

"The Web site, which revolutionized e-commerce in 1995 by connecting buyers and sellers in an auction format where price was set by the convergence of supply and demand, unveiled its first fashion app for the iPhone on Thursday. The company recently introduced an iPad fashion app, and an app for the BlackBerry mobile phone is due next. The new fashion app could have major consequences for eBay and its competitors, and for consumers as well. Users will have access to the 20 million fashion items offered through eBay’s Marketplace. The app can be used to browse, virtually try on and buy products at any time of the day, anywhere the iPhone gets a signal (airplanes, yes; subways, no.) It can be downloaded for free on iTunes. EBay’s core iPhone application has been downloaded 10 million times, the company said. A measure of the iPhone app’s potential: EBay expects to more than double its $600 million gross fashion merchandise volume of last year to $1.5 billion this year. “Over the past year, we have made significant investments in dramatically enhancing the way customers shop for fashion on eBay,” said Dinesh Lathi, eBay Inc.’s vice president of North America. “[We] feel that mobile offers a great medium to continue our innovation in delivering a personalized experience and connecting our buyers with the world’s largest online selection of branded, designer and vintage clothing, shoes and accessories. It also enables our sellers, regardless of their size, to participate in mobile commerce in groundbreaking ways.” With $5.45 billion in worldwide gross merchandise volume in apparel last year, eBay is the largest seller of clothing online. Apparel is also the company’s top mobile category in terms of items sold, and the second-largest after automobiles in terms of volume. Not content with merely selling more apparel online than any other company, eBay wants to offer more exclusive fashion to its client base of more than 90 million active users. For example, eBay this year introduced exclusive capsule collections by Narciso Rodriguez and Norma Kamali. Products are listed under the headings women’s, men’s, kids, baby and vintage, with the latter organized by decade." read more

(wwd)Burberry Buys Back China Operations

"Burberry has agreed to buy back its China operations for 70 million pounds, or $107.8 million at current exchange, in cash. The company said it would acquire the stores and “related assets” in China currently operated by its longstanding franchisees. Burberry said the transaction was in line with its strategy to unify and consolidate operations worldwide, and increase its exposure to high-growth luxury markets. “With a solid foundation of 50 stores across 30 cities, operational expertise and strong brand momentum, this is an optimal time for Burberry to integrate this business,” stated chief executive Angela Ahrendts. She said Burberry planned to “drive productivity” in existing stores and to open new stores, while rapidly implementing digital marketing initiatives. The transaction is expected to add up to 20 million pounds, or $30.8 million, to group operating profit in the fiscal year 2011/12."

(fibre2fashion)IMG, Japan Fashion Week Organization Reach Deal

IMG Fashion announced that it has signed a five year agreement to partner with the Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFWO), which organises and manages Tokyo Collection Week held biannually in Tokyo. IMG Fashion will act as JFWO’s sole and exclusive representative for the exploitation of sponsorship rights. IMG Fashion will help to maximise the efficiency of a series of industry and consumer events that make up Tokyo Collection Week staged by the JFWO. JFWO has been created to strengthen the competitive power of the Japanese textile and fashion industry, and to encourage growth. It is also designed to further increase Tokyo's reputation as a significant textile and fashion hub. The event brings together manufacturers in the textile and fashion industries, fashion designers and distributors from across Japan, greater South East Asia and the world. "This is a very exciting partnership," said Mr. Peter Levy, Senior Vice President and Managing Director of IMG Fashion, Worldwide. "Tokyo Collection Week is one of the more significant fashion events held annually and has reached a stage in its lifecycle where it is capable of achieving substantial growth. Our globally connected team at IMG Fashion is ready to take on this challenge and work closely with the JFWO to realize the event’s true potential."

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wwd)Chinese Textile Industry Warns of Bankruptcies

"China’s textile industry could face serious repercussions if the value of the yuan appreciates 5 percent against the dollar, state media reported Tuesday. China National Textile & Apparel Council vice president Gao Yong told the China Daily that a 5 percent currency appreciation could cause half of the country’s textile companies to go bankrupt. He said the bankruptcies would be spurred by the industry’s thin profit margins of around 3 to 5 percent. The textile industry output in 2009 accounted for just more than 11 percent of China’s gross domestic product, a Ministry of Commerce report said. The Chinese government conducted a yuan stress test in March that indicated textile manufacturers’ profit margins would decline 1 percent if the currency appreciates by 1 percent, according to the newspaper. China’s central bank announced last month it would allow greater flexibility in the value of the yuan against the dollar, amid pressure from the U.S. and other trading partners. The People’s Bank of China did not say how far the currency might fluctuate. Analysts told state media that textile industry profit margins already have been affected by rising raw material and labor costs, together with an appreciating yuan, which rose 21 percent against the dollar from 2005 to 2008. Zhang Bin, an analyst with Sinolink Securities, said textile products have become more expensive, resulting in diminishing price advantages compared with Vietnam, Indonesia and other Southeast Asian countries. China’s textile manufacturers could further be squeezed by rising labor costs, Zhang said. Demands from factory workers for higher wages have become a central focus around the country after a spate of suicides at Foxconn Technology, a hardware producer in the southern city of Shenzhen." read more

(bloomberg)Polo, Hugo Boss, Hermes-Linked Fashion Notes Sold By Vontobel

"Vontobel Holding AG, a Swiss private bank, is marketing structured notes that track the stocks of fashion companies including Hugo Boss AG, Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. and Hermes International SCA. The two-year note is aimed at private banks and asset managers, according to Georg Vonwattenwyl, Vontobel’s Zurich- based head of financial products distribution. The bank will issue as much as 20 million euros ($25 million) of the notes, which start trading July 16 on the SIX Swiss Exchange Ltd. and Germany’s Stuttgart and Frankfurt bourses. Luxury goods companies in Europe are expected to post sales growth of 7 percent on average this year, after slumping 6.6 percent in 2009, according to a Vontobel report. Fashion companies returned about 50 percent last year, according to the Swiss bank, almost double the 27 percent gain in the MSCI Europe Index of 461 stocks. “We have seen some interest in the fashion story this year,” Vonwattenwyl said. “The global development of wealth and the demand for luxury products, particularly in Asia, should benefit these stocks in the future.” Vontobel’s notes will return to investors any gain or loss on the basket of 11 stocks that also includes Bulgari SpA, Burberry Group Plc, Coach Inc., Cie Financiere Richemont SA, Louis Vitton Moet Hennessy SA, Swatch Group AG, Tiffany & Co. and Tod’s SpA. The Swiss bank issued similar notes in 2004 that earned 20.3 percent for buyers that held them for all of their 18-month term." read more

(wwd)J. Crew Names Jenna Lyons President

Jenna Lyons was named Tuesday as president of J. Crew Group Inc. after the resignation of Tracy Gardner, president of retail and direct channels. Lyons will retain her responsibilities as executive creative director. Gardner is leaving the company effective Sept. 13. “This is nothing other than an important personal decision” for Gardner, said Millard “Mickey” Drexler, chairman and chief executive officer, adding that she wants to “spend more time with her children.” Drexler, who worked with Gardner for almost 20 years at J. Crew and their former employer, Gap Inc., described her as “a great merchant, business partner and human being. But we have a really strong team and there are people in place to step up and take on more responsibility.” Drexler said J. Crew will spread Gardner’s duties among executives. Libby Wadle, who had overseen the factory outlets, will become executive vice president of retail and factory. Charlie Phillips, senior vice president of men’s and women’s retail merchandising, now will serve as senior vice president of factory and men’s retail merchandising. Renee Brantjes will continue as vice president of women’s retail merchandising. Merchandise production responsibilities will be under James Scully, chief administrative officer and chief financial officer. Trish Donnelly will continue as executive vice president of the direct channel, and Laura Willensky will remain as senior vice president of the Madewell retail channel. The last person to hold the president’s position at J. Crew was Jeff Pfeifle, a close associate of Drexler, who left the company two years ago. “The team at J. Crew has considerable depth, and I am…confident in our ability to achieve a seamless transition,” Drexler said read more

(myfashionplate)Stella McCartney To Design Olympic Sportswear

"Stella McCartney is one of the UK’s most successful fashion designers and has previously collaborated with the likes of H&M on accessible ranges for those of us who can’t afford designer price tags in our virtual closet organizer. But now the daughter of the former Beatles legend has been appointed as the creative director of Adidas’ 2012 Olympic Team GB ranges. Of course, this is not the first time McCartney has worked with the sports brand, as she designed a performance collection back in 1995. "As a British fashion designer it is an amazing, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be creative director of Team GB as the hosting nation of the London 2012 Olympic Games," McCartney said. Plus, it is not just the athletes that will get to wear the fashionable sports gear, as there will also be a fan wear range to match. McCartney launched her own fashion house as a joint venture with Gucci Group in 2001. They may only be sports kits, but it’ll still be interesting to see what she comes up with! We’ll just have to remember to keep our eyes on our own athletes as well." read more

(wsj)French Court Kicks Google/LVMH Case Back To Appeals

The French Supreme Court Tuesday referred a previous ruling against Internet search giant Google Inc. (GOOG) back to the Court of Appeal, effectively canceling an earlier decision in favour of French luxury goods company LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA (MC.FR), which complained that searches on Google's website for its Louis Vuitton trademark generated adverts for counterfeiters and fake Louis Vuitton goods. The court, which is known in France as the Cour de Cassation, canceled a June 2006 Court of Appeals decision condemning Google to a EUR300,000 fine, and referred the case back to the appellate bench. The dispute concerns Google's AdWords business. Google, like others in the multi-billion-dollar Internet search industry, derives valuable income from enabling advertisers to tag their ads to particular search words, often famous brands. LVMH has complained that searches on Google's website for its Louis Vuitton trademark generated adverts for counterfeiters and fake Louis Vuitton goods. On March 23, the European Court of Justice ruled that Google could allow advertisers to use trademarks of brands as search keywords, but may be liable for polic

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wwd)Fakes Continue to Grow, Despite More Seizures

"As quickly as they’re seized, more flood the market. Counterfeit products are benefiting from the economy’s woes as consumers still try to flaunt a well-known brand but are perhaps no longer able to afford the real thing, while the criminal element, including terrorists, seeks to generate ever more funds by moving into the counterfeiting business. The result is that, even as federal and local governments crack down harder on fake goods, the activity is increasing at a record rate. The flood of counterfeit goods into the U.S., mostly from China, costs legitimate businesses an estimated $250 billion a year in lost revenues and is responsible for the loss of 750,000 jobs annually, according to the International AntiCounterfeiting Coalition. In fiscal year 2009, U.S. Customs & Border Protection seized $260.7 million of fake merchandise. Shoes are the most common counterfeit product, accounting for 38 percent of infringing goods seized, but handbags, watches, jewelry, sunglasses, perfumes, pharmaceuticals and other consumer goods continue to be knocked off at alarming rates, according to the most recent figures from Customs. In 2009, seizures netted $99.8 million of footwear, $21.5 million of handbags and wallets, $21.5 million of wearing apparel, $15.53 million of watches and $10.5 million of jewelry. Luxury brands’ counterfeit problems have escalated even as statistics from Customs & Border Protection reveal a slight decline in seizures. The value of goods seized in 2009 dropped 4 percent to $260.7 million from $272.7 million in 2008, and the number of seizures declined 1 percent to 14,841 in 2009." read more

(nyt)High Fashion Relents to Web’s Pull

"In the genteel world of luxury, companies long felt that the Web was no place for merchandising exclusive products. And there was a gentlemen’s agreement with department stores not to siphon sales by reaching out directly to wealthy customers. Then, in came the recession, and out went the niceties. Department stores slashed prices on $1,200 handbags, while luxury lines fretted about losing their exclusivity. Now, come September, marcjacobs.com is going retail, 10 years after most brands opened Web showrooms. “I was so annoyed last year that I wished no one had our merchandise,” said Robert Duffy, the president and vice chairman of Marc Jacobs. “All the department stores were panicked, and they were marking things down.” Other luxury brands — Jimmy Choo, Hugo Boss, Vince, Lancôme, St. John, Theory, Kiehl’s, Lilly Pulitzer, Donna Karan and La Perla — have started or soon will start selling their products through their Web sites. If it infuriates department stores or brings in customers who might have earned a glare from haughty clerks, who cares, as long as people are buying at full price? “These brands are finally taking the plunge to establish an online retail presence,” said Jeffrey Max, chief executive of Venda, which handles technology for e-commerce sites. “The recession forced these manufacturers to realize they needed to look for revenue wherever they could.” Adding to the Web’s appeal, profits are much higher on clothes sold directly to consumers, since no middleman takes a cut. And the brands can control pricing and styling on their sites.Hugo Boss uses the same models from its ads so its marketing is consistent, for instance, while Lacoste “won’t have any discount pricing on the Web, never, never, ever,” said Eric Bascle, director of strategic projects and e-commerce. When companies started to sell items online in the 1990s, most luxury brands paid little attention. By the mid-2000s, a few high-end companies were selling their products directly, but most still didn’t bother. “The classic luxury brand Web site is basically a Flash site with lots of beautiful imagery, but no one ever goes to it,” said Aaron Shapiro, a partner at the Web design firm Huge. Brands whose boutiques have fresh flowers and fawning salespeople could not translate that to the Web. “Luxury brands were a little hesitant or reticent, because they were struggling with how to convey and create an experience that was rich,” said Mark Brashear, chairman and chief executive for the Americas at Hugo Boss, which introduced its e-commerce site in April. But by the time the luxury market slid last year, attitudes were changing. Technology was improving, so sites could add features like zoom, videos and live help. And with budgets for store openings frozen, a Web store was a relatively cheap way to expand a business." read more

(wwd)Billabong Agrees to Buy RVCA

"Billabong International Limited said Monday that it has reached a “conditional agreement” to buy California.-based skate and lifestyle brand RVCA for an undisclosed amount. “RVCA is not defined by any single sport or culture. It represents a community of culturally aware youth and is inspired by a diverse range of interests, each of which is underpinned by an original, highly creative design element,” Billabong International Limited chief executive officer Derek O’Neill said. “It is a brand that has developed a very strong presence in the United States, particularly in southern California, on the strength of its fashion-forward ranges in categories including art-driven t-shirts, denim, wovens, boardshorts and, more recently, its girls’ line,” the executive said. The acquisition includes the current management team, headed up by RVCA founder Pat Tenore, who established the brand in 2000."

(wwd)Macy's Names Langenstein

Macy’s Inc. has its fashion guru.  Molly Langenstein has been promoted to executive vice president of fashion and new business development, establishing the Macy’s veteran as the department store chain’s first national fashion director.  “She’ll be in charge of the overall fashion direction for Macy’s,” said Jim Sluzewski, Macy’s corporate spokesman. It’s the one top national slot Macy’s hasn’t filled since it centralized into a national chain from four divisions last year and seven divisions two years ago, and reorganized the top management with new assignments and titles. Langenstein will work with the market on fashion direction and trends that translate into sales opportunities and will report to chief merchandising officer Jeff Gennette. Nicole Fischelis continues as fashion director for women’s and will report to Langenstein. Other fashion directors in men’s wear and home areas also will report to Langenstein. Langenstein also will be responsible for procuring lease business opportunities and overseeing the multicultural business development organization, which seeks to develop minority- and women-owned merchandise suppliers and identify merchandise for multicultural customers. Macy’s leased operations inside the stores include Sunglass Hut and Motherhood Maternity shops, but the company is seeking to add more leased shops to fill voids in the assortments. “We are always looking to fill any white space,” Sluzewski said. “It tends to be specialty businesses — niche categories that take a special expertise.” Previously, Langenstein was group vice president and divisional merchandise manager for neo sportswear [contemporary brands] and Impulse [young contemporary sportswear]. Moving up to Langenstein’s previous spot is Tim Baxter, who has been group vice president and dmm of fashion jewelry and watches. Langenstein joined Macy’s in January 1985 as a group manager for ready-to-wear in Boynton Beach, Fla., and steadily rose up the merchandising ranks."

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

This Weekend's High Temps, J Woww's Fashion Sense, Hot Weather Clothing, Recycle NYC, and Givenchy Couture.

(wwd)Heat wave: what NYC wore when it hit 105°.

WWD has a recap of what NYC wore when NYC experienced the hottest weather in a long time. long maxi dresses,floral sun dresses, straw hats and SHORT shorts were among some of the fashion choices this weekend. Here's a slideshow of more pictures if you need ideas for the rest of the week, it's going to be a scorcher!

(wwd)Hot Times at Retail: Soaring Temps Drive Consumers to Stores

"Consumers throughout the Eastern U.S. sought relief from record-breaking temperatures Tuesday any way they could — including going shopping. As the thermometer topped 100 degrees in Manhattan and elsewhere, retail executives said traffic to their air-conditioned stores and malls was heavier than normal. Even the bedbug-plagued Hollister store in SoHo, which reopened Saturday, saw a large influx of consumers. The searing heat followed the warmest July 4th weekend since 2007 and the third-warmest June in 50 years. And the heat wave was forecast to continue through at least Friday, when temperatures are expected to dip to the more-normal mid-80s. Over the weekend, businesses in the eastern two-thirds of the U.S. experienced double-digit increases of seasonal purchases compared to the coldest 2009 period in a decade, according to Planalytics, which analyzes and publishes the weather’s impact on retail. While consumers on the West Coast were still waiting for summer to start and holding off on seasonal purchases, other shoppers were able to think about fall wardrobes and even boots — despite the heat. Retailers said that the gain in traffic and sales will likely last as long as the heat wave — a much-needed boost as consumers’ reluctance to spend increases along with unemployment and fears of a second recession. Cold water is likely to be splashed on retailers’ recent good mood on Thursday when stores report comparable-store sales that, while expected to show growth, also will stir concerns over margins and rising inventories going into the key back-to-school season. “We had high double-digit increases,” said Susan Davidson, president and chief executive officer of Scoop. “East Hampton was off the charts. They’re buying fall early, driven by designers like Azzedine Alaïa, Missoni, Michael Kors, Phillip Lim and Marc Jacobs. We’re selling Chloé shoes and boots. Also, swimwear, shorts and little dresses.” She said business was “off to a good start” on Tuesday." read more

(nbc)Pret-A-Re-Porter: NYC Launching Massive Fashion Recycling Program

Starting in September, New York City will launch one of the largest textile recycling initiatives in the nation. The aim is to make it easy to donate clothing, almost as easy as throwing it away. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, Americans pitch almost 10 pounds of socks, jeans, shirts and sheets per year, per person. In New York, where 190,000 tons of textiles entered the city's landfills in 2008 alone, the plan would place 50 collection bins in high-traffic areas. "I moved three times in the last five years, and each time I ended up throwing away clothes," says 25-year-old Tracy Feldman. "It is just too hard to haul it all over the city. If there was a bin on my block, I wouldn't hesitate to recycle them." The city is taking bids for a 10- to 15-year contract with a nonprofit company that will be responsible for the bins. Goodwill Industries International is one of the companies bidding on the contract. "There has not been another program like this that we know of," said Goodwill spokesman Alfred Vanderbilt. "We think they are being very creative and we hope this sets a new standard." A Goodwill Industries survey of 600 adults in the United States and Canada found that more than half of people who donate clothing say they wouldn't go more than 10 minutes out of their way to make a donation. Robert Lange, the director of the Bureau of Waste Prevention, Reuse and Recycling in New York, said his department discovered the same problem. "You can open a black bag at the landfill and see what looks like new clothing," he said. "It is easier to throw it out than recycle." Not all used clothing can be recycled into usable clothing — take those old, stinky sneakers and torn clothing. But that doesn't mean those items can't be donated. While Goodwill is mostly looking for clothing that can be resold, there are ways to recycle even the old tattered pieces. At Wearable Collections, a New Jersey-based textile recycling company, almost half of donations are good for resale, according to the owner. The other half is split nearly evenly between being used for rags for businesses like the automotive industry and being broken down for insulation. Less than 5 percent of the total is unusable and goes to the landfill. Officials say that if New York's campaign is successful, it could lead to a nationwide movement to recycle clothing." read more

(dailymail)J not so Woww! (we'll spare you the pictures)

Not that we would want to give her any more publicity for horrible clothing, but we are giggling a bit about the launch of her new line. When we ran into her at Fashion Week back in Feb. 2010 and couldn't stop gawking at her skin-tight clothes, we were slightly curious (just slightly) to see if she would actually follow through with her own line. Not quite sure if you would call this an accomplishment however.

"With her skimpy bikinis, tight miniskirts and plunging dresses, she's not exactly known for her sophisticated sense of style. And JWoww's new  'Filthy Couture' fashion line may have a looked a little trashy to some at its Las Vegas runway show. Models sashayed down the runway in tight padded lace mini dresses, ripped white jeans and clashing corset-style tops with plunging necklines. The Jersey Shore star's range of swimwear looked a little like lingerie, with chains added to one bikini and another decorated with black lace. 'For the bathing suits I wanted to go with a grungy, or sexy-grungy look with the chains, but I also wanted to keep it girly with the lace,’ JWoww explained to People.com, adding that she found her runway debut ‘very unreal.’ The 23-year-old star sported a low cut pink lacy dress - her own design - at the event, held at Vegas hot spot Ghost Bar. ‘I’ve had this vision for a long time, and I’ve been in school for seven years doing it but I never thought it would come true.’" read more

A Couture Treat: New from Givenchy

Givenchy Fall 2010 Couture

"Death, religion, sensuality. Provocative topics for cocktail conversation, and for fashion, as well. As starting points for Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, the themes made for an arresting, finely honed collection. Tisci’s three-part motif stemmed from what the designer called the three obsessions of Frida Kahlo (whose 103rd birthday is today, for those into such coincidences.) The artist’s fascination with the Mexican Day of the Dead inspired the skeletal lace tracings that recurred throughout the tight, 10-look lineup, delivering ample bravura."

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

What in the world do the new Eat, Pray, Love scents actually smell like?

"Fresh has teamed up with Sony Pictures to create the Eat, Pray, Love fragrance collection, based on the best-selling memoir of the same name by Elizabeth Gilbert. The trio is set to launch on July 15, before the movie of the same name — starring Julia Roberts — is released on Aug. 13. “We have been working for the past 18 months on several new directions for the brand,” said Jean-Marc Plisson, chief executive officer of Fresh Inc. at LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics North America. “We used to be a very fragmented brand with lots of great, but unrelated, products in the eyes of the consumer. One of our key strategies has been to create lifestyle items that you get excited about in-store. In beauty, we have to find ways that give interest to the customer to see you and feel good about it. With the Eat, Pray, Love collection, we’re partnering with Sony and with movie theaters and retailers to provide not just a product, but an experience.”

Eat has top notes of Italian lemon, basil and bergamot; a heart of plum, red current and rose, and a drydown of caramel, meringue and vanilla. Pray has top notes of elemi, pink pepper and juniper berry; middle notes of incense, peony and rose, and a drydown of patchouli, amber and musk. Love has top notes of bergamot, red currant and mango blossom; a heart of tiare and dewy jasmine, and a drydown of sandalwood, vetiver and velvet amber.  Each will retail for $32 for a 1-oz. eau de parfum spray." read more

(wsj)Designers Pitch Brand New York

"Young labels like the Row, Jason Wu, Nellie Partow, Waris Ahluwalia and Prabal Gurung are trumpeting their New York roots on apparel and labels in an effort to create a sartorial version of the locavore movement. The idea: to link locally-made clothes with artisanal values to promote stitched-in-New York sales. As New York's Garment District struggles to survive, a consortium of designers and manufacturers have launched a campaign, Made in Midtown, in hopes that clothing shoppers will become more conscious of the impact of their purchases.

A recent study by Made in Midtown found that New York's fashion industry accounts for 5% (over 172,000) of jobs in the city. By comparison, there were more than 300,000 apparel jobs in New York in 1949. "Part of what can come out of this study is, how do you talk about locally-made products in a way that connects the consumer to making the decision [to buy them]?" says Council of Fashion Designers of America executive director Steven Kolb, adding that he hopes lessons can be borrowed from the green and local movements to promote domestic purchases of apparel." read the full article

(wwd)David Yurman CEO to Exit

"Paul Blum, David Yurman’s chief executive officer, is stepping down. Blum, who joined the jewelry and timepiece firm in February 2006, will remain in his role until a successor is named and become a member of its board. “Paul joined us four-and-a-half years ago and has succeeded in building an efficient organization that has helped us grow our business even through some fairly difficult times,” David Yurman, who serves as the company’s chairman, said. “While we are sorry to see Paul go, we are pleased to know he will continue to retain a voice within our company as a board member and we fully support him in his decision and in his future endeavors.” Prior to taking over the ceo role from the namesake designer, Blum had been president of Kenneth Cole. At Yurman, he is credited with transitioning the company from a largely wholesale-based operation to a multichannel business that has wholesale, freestanding retail and e-commerce. Blum also implemented a strong management structure at Yurman." read more

(wwd)Gucci Launches Children's Line

"The official launch of Gucci’s children’s wear line Thursday at the Pitti Bimbo trade fair in Florence coincided with a $1 million pledge from the luxury goods house to UNICEF’s Schools for Africa program. The new initiative, aimed at increasing access to quality basic education, further strengthens the long-standing partnership between Gucci and the humanitarian association. Their six-year collaboration has helped raise more than $8 million, primarily through the house’s holiday initiative when creative director Frida Giannini develops a special gift collection whose proceeds are partly devolved to the organization. “I am especially proud of this collection for the new creative challenge and would like to use the opportunity of this launch to reinforce Gucci’s commitment to UNICEF,” said Giannini. “I visited Malawi last November and saw the difficult situation children face in sub-Saharan Africa, where every third child doesn’t get the chance to go to school. UNICEF’s Schools for Africa program is successfully giving more children access to a good education, providing a start in life that so many of us take for granted.” read more

(mtv)From the 'Eclipse' Premiere

If you haven't had enough glitter covered Vampires  in your life lately, we've come across a few articles that highlight some of the fashion on the red carpet from the recent Premiere of 'Eclipse'. In our opinion Dakota Fanning stole the show.

'Eclipse' Premiere Fashion Recap: mtv.com

'The Twilight Saga: Eclipse' premiere pictures from the red -- er, black -- carpet: LA Times

(styleite)American Apparel Is On The Brink Of Financial “Collapse”

"In a perfect world, Dov Charney would appear in our newsfeed as little as possible. Instead, we would be greeted by headlines shouting “Alexander Wang Designs for H&M” or “Alber Elbaz Saves A Tree Full of Stray Kittens” — but we can only dream.In a perfect world, Dov Charney would appear in our newsfeed as little as possible. Instead, we would be greeted by headlines shouting “Alexander Wang Designs for H&M” or “Alber Elbaz Saves A Tree Full of Stray Kittens” — but we can only dream. Once again, American Apparel made headlines today when MSNBCpublished an article that strayed away from the company’s problems we all know too well and divert our attention to another: American Apparel is not making bank. Oh really? Guess it has been tough for our minds to wrap around that when we’ve been bombarded by the company’s other problems — like a leak of memos going into details of image policies and $1 million breach contracts. But according to the article, it turns out the recent controversies are not the crux of the financial problems that the company is currently facing. Instead, it’s the CEO’s inability to turn in his financial filings on time and production problems within the company’s Los Angeles factory. Mysteriously, Charney seems to believe that the problem is temporary and everything will be okay:

“Our company in the past has been through these types of issues before and it’s never really presented us with any particular difficulties in running our business.”

Not according to MSNBC’s recent findings, and in this paragraph they sum up what’s really going on:

Even if the clothing company is able to resolve that crisis, production problems at its factories, which are contributing to its poor financial results, could take months to work out, the company has conceded. The Los Angeles-based company also has warned that it risks having its stock delisted from the Amex because it has repeatedly been tardy with its financial filings.

Mr. Charney, please divert your attention away from your doe-eyed models and instead deal with this internal mess once and for all." read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wsj)Forever 21 Pursues Big-Store Branding

"Forever 21 Inc. is set to open a massive new store in New York's Times Square on Friday, the latest and most aggressive step in the low-priced fashion retailer's plan to expand from a clothing boutique into a department store. The privately held, Los Angeles-based company is expanding aggressively at a time when most retailers are holding back or downsizing, a move enabled in large part by the recession. Forever 21 snapped up real estate vacated by brands such as the now-bankrupt Mervyns LLC chain that were forced to downsize or close because of dwindling sales. Teens continue to swarm Forever 21's piles of inexpensive, high-fashion-imitating party dresses and tank tops. But moving into cavernous spaces, like the 90,000-square-foot spot near 46th and Broadway, is forcing the chain into new categories like menswear, children's clothing and beauty, where its hold on consumers is less certain." read more

(wwd)H&M Profits Up 24 Percent in Second Quarter

"Hennes & Mauritz AB, the world’s third-largest fashion retailer, said net profits rose 24 percent in the second quarter, but sales of its spring garments were disappointing due to unusually cold weather in most of its markets. Net profits in the three months ended May 31 amounted to 5.21 billion kronor, or $710 million, on sales of 31.6 billion kronor, or $4.3 billion. Same-store sales were down by 1 percent in the quarter. Dollar figures are converted at average exchange rates for the period. Like-for-like sales fell 4 percent in May compared with the same month last year, with the retailer reporting that unspecified calendar effects had a negative impact of 3 to 4 percentage units in the month. Including new stores, sales grew 6 percent in May and 22 percent during the period of June 1-22, it added. The Swedish high-street giant said weaker-than-expected spring sales had left it with 2 percent more stock than last year. “This could lead to a higher price reduction level in the third quarter compared to the corresponding quarter last year,” it said. Gross margin — a key measure of profitability — rose to 65.9 percent in the second quarter from 61 percent a year earlier, boosted by a weaker dollar during the purchasing period for garments sold in the quarter. “Other factors, such as greater surplus capacity at suppliers, lower transportation costs, favorable raw material prices and efficiencies in the buying process also impacted the gross margin positively in the second quarter 2010,” it said. H&M announced it would enter Croatia and Romania in 2011 with store openings in Zagreb and Bucharest in the spring. Also next year, Morocco will become a new franchise market with a store opening in Casablanca in the fall. The company said it had postponed the planned opening of a COS store in Hong Kong from fall 2010 to sometime next year."

(wwd)U.S. Retailers Push in China

"China is beckoning mainstream U.S. retailers as never before. With the country’s middle class growing fast — projected by Euromonitor to total 700 million people in 2020 — companies such as Gap Inc., American Eagle Outfitters Inc. and Bebe Stores Inc. are making their first forays into China. Others, including Guess Inc., Iconix Brand Group Inc. and Levi Strauss & Co., are enlarging their footprints. The activity comes as China has decided to let its currency appreciate gradually against a basket of currencies, including the dollar, which could — along with rising wages for Chinese workers — boost the purchasing power of its consumers and make the world’s most populous nation an even more enticing market.  The push by retail and apparel firms in China, preceded by the expansion of luxury brands, has accelerated as they seek to diversify geographically because the international economic crisis exposed the vulnerability of developed markets while China’s economy grew 8.7 percent last year."

(Independent)Madonna's Fashion Line to Hit Macy's in August

"Macy's has released the first images of popstar Madonna and her daughter Lourdes's first fashion range for the US department store, called Material Girl - due out for back-to-school season in August. Judging from the sketches, there will mainly be 1980s-inspired clothes (complete with a range of fingerless gloves), including flowery bustier dresses, star prints, and 'jeggings.' According to the press release, the new line relies on mixing unexpected items, "like a tutu dress and studded-combat boots, or an oversized boyfriend sweatshirt with a floral print mini skirt." Even though the fashion world is starting to get fed up with celebrity fashion lines, this collection is highly anticipated not just because of Madonna's star power, but also because of her successful design debut for Swedsih retailer H&M a few years back. All items, expected to cost under $40, will hit Macy's stores and its website on August 3." read more

Fashion's Night Out--Officially--Coming to L.A.!

"Cynthia Ruiz, the president of the city’s Department of Public Works—and also known as the mayor’s fashion ambassador—confirmed that the mayor’s Office of Economics & Business Policy, under the jurisdiction of Deputy Mayor Austin Buetner, has started to plan Los Angeles’ participation in the night-long shopping extravaganza. The U.S. edition of Fashion’s Night Out was created last year through a partnership between Vogue, the Council of Fashion Designers of America and N.Y.C. & Co. (New York City’s tourism site) as a global initiative to celebrate fashion and boost consumer confidence, shopping and the local economy. The F.N.O./L.A. committee will soon reveal how the city of Los Angeles is planning on translating this much-awaited night into sales, events and an opportunity for local designers to be showcased. “I love the idea of L.A.’s FNO having some of the elements that the Downtown L.A. Art Walk has been able to implement—a little something for everybody,” Commissioner Ruiz said. Last year during the inaugural launch of F.N.O. in New York, Los Angeles held a few in-store shopping events around town. Now, after the efforts of many, L.A. will officially join the lineup of Fashion’s Night Out cities, alongside New York and several other fashion capitals around the world."

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Kate Spade Resort 2011

"Deborah Lloyd’s resort and holiday collections have Kate Spade’s retro-modern whimsical spirit. Resort looks include navy-and-white-striped jersey jackets and T-shirt dresses along with ruffled blouses and dresses in a shirting fabric with a pop of color in accessories, such as a color-blocked bag or shoes. New this season are denim handbags and Lloyd’s first pair of jeans. Holiday features sparkly, shiny dresses and skirts, made more casual by adding colorful hosiery or chunky scarves."

Vionnet Cruise 2011

"Creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga continues to display his knack for distinctive shapes and cuts this season. Dresses steal the spotlight at Vionnet — from loose jersey numbers to skimpier versions in two-toned sequins and ruched styles featuring rounded hems."

(wwd)Macys.com Names Kantor

"Macy’s Inc.’s Web sites — macys.com and bloomingdales.com — exceeded $1 billion in sales last year, but the corporation wants much more. WWD has learned that Macy’s is developing a strategy to speed growth of its e-commerce businesses and has reassigned a top merchant, Jeff Kantor, to become president of merchandising at macys.com, effective Aug. 1.  Kantor will succeed Helaine Suval, executive vice president of merchandising for macys.com, who is retiring in the spring. In the meantime, she will oversee the development of “an accelerated growth strategy for the e-commerce business,” working closely with Sachse and Kent Anderson, president of macys.com operations, Macy’s said. On the agenda, taking macys.com international. The company will begin to fulfill overseas orders later this year." read more

(Washington Post)Wendy Brandes on why fashion 'torments' women leaders

"Before switching career paths into jewelry design, Wendy Brandes spent 15 years in media and marketing, working at People.com, the Wall Street Journal and investment banking firm Lehman Brothers. In 2004, after designing her own engagement and wedding rings, Brandes became a full-time entrepreneur, drawing on her affinity for strong, powerful women leaders to fuel her own collection. Her website-store offers a mix of whimsical pendants, bold statement rings and eye-catching earrings, some inspired by iconic figures such as Cleopatra and Anne Boleyn, and others taking their story from more obscure sources, such as Marie-Thérèse Charlotte, the eldest daughter of Marie Antoinette. Her latest achievement? Getting a pair of her earrings into the recently released "Sex and the City" sequel. For Brandes, the allure of these luxury items - some cost as much as $15,000 - lies in the backstory of the women who have inspired them. Like so many successful entrepreneurs, Brandes has an eye for detail: Many of her items have a mechanical element, allowing them to open and close, unscrew or twist to reveal some hidden detail, such as a tiny silver chicken tucked inside a gold egg. As she steers her small company and attempts to grow its presence through social media, she draws on her own experiences with good and bad leadership and takes notes from the success and failures of famous women around the world." read the interview with Wendy Brandes and Holly Thomas of the Washington Post.

(wwd)Kabat to Exit Prada

"Randy Kabat, executive vice president, marketing and advertising at Prada USA, is leaving the company, effective July 9. Kabat joined Prada in 1997, immediately taking a leadership role in a business-side trajectory that kept pace with, and reflected, Miuccia Prada’s creativity. Kabat told WWD she considers the past 13 years a privilege, having represented “this company with its incredible brands and visionary leadership...The breath and depth of my role at Prada USA over the years in marketing, advertising and communications has been truly rewarding.” She said that the time “just feels right to make a change. I'm looking forward to leveraging my experience from Prada, and some other great brands before, towards my next professional challenge.” Prior to her arrival at Prada, Kabat worked first at Giorgio Armani, and later, Swatch."

(style.com)In the Mood For Shorts

Style.com has some really cute and affordable alternatives to the light, dark and acid wash jean cutoff's you wore last summer. We love the wrap-front looks and tribal patterned jacquard pair from J.Crew. Here they are at style.com

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Happy Monday!

(Style.com)A Guide to Neon

If you've ever wondered how exactly to pull off wearing an electric green watch or glowing orange silk top, here is Style.com's guide to wearing neon this summer. Personally we love the Roarke braided bracelets. Perfect for stacking and so cool for the summer!

Louis Vuitton Cruise 2011

“A little bit Lolita” was how Louis Vuitton style director Julie de Libran described Marc Jacobs’ resort lineup. That means retro, ultrafeminine clothes, with prints of fruit vines and peonies worked onto flouncy skirts, and bows adorning cinch-waisted shorts and trousers. It isn’t all flou and frou, however: There is louche glamour in the cool striped silk blouses and solid suede jackets, and a chic ease to the dresses, particularly a pale pink and cream-trimmed bouclé number with a gentle full skirt.

Lanvin Cruise 2011

"Declaring that women should “have it all,” Alber Elbaz loads Lanvin’s cruise collection with transformable clothes, many with stretch properties and all of them chic. Swimwear is a new category, and draped maillots morph into what Elbaz calls “robes de yacht,” thanks to matching short skirts. Black chemise dresses for day shelter linings of draped tulle or ruffled chiffon, reversing with one zip into fetching cocktail wear."

(wwd)Teen Retailers Hit by Fashion Shift

"Specialty stores catering to fickle 13- to 19-year-olds are struggling as these consumers grow tired of the Americana and surf-and-skate fashions they’ve long snapped up and search for a new look — even if they’re not quite sure what that look might be. Their ennui is setting off alarm bells over the crucial back-to-school season even as schools let out for the summer.

Not only is demand soft, but competition is growing. Fast-fashion retailers such as H&M, Zara and Forever 21 are gaining momentum since their looks change every six weeks or less, and mass merchants are picking up market share, as well. According to Hana Ben-Shabat, a partner in the retail practice at the A.T. Kearney consulting firm, between 4 and 6 percent of teens last year shifted from shopping at specialty stores to shopping at mass merchants and discounters.

Part of this is being driven by the hangover from the recession — and continued high unemployment. That means teens don’t have money to spend on new clothes, and nor, in many cases, do their parents. Apparel spending, which had averaged 50 percent of teens’ discretionary purchases in 2008, fell to 40 percent last year." read more

(LATimes) Tony Awards Fashion 2010

"Rain couldn't deter the good cheer on the red carpet Sunday in New York, as Broadway celebrated its biggest night, the Tony Awards. The night was perhaps a bit more glam than in previous years, as Hollywood seemed to move East for the evening. Radiant in green, Scarlett Johansson, nominated for "A View From the Bridge," waved to the crowd, gathered outside Radio City Music Hall.  Her costar and fellow nominee Liev Schreiber arrived with  Naomi Watts. Catherine Zeta-Jones, nominated for "A Little Night Music," was glowing in a powder blue gown.

Hamming it up on the carpet was Green Day -- Mike Dirnt, Billie Joe Armstrong and Tre Cool -- whoseshow "American Idiot" is up for best musical. Among the others making the trek includedDaniel Radcliffe,who appeared in "Equus" on Broadway in 2008; Antonio Banderas, star of  "Nine" in 2003, and wife Melanie Griffith, who appeared "Chicago" that same year; and Bebe Newirth, a star of "The Addams Family" musical. And, of course, the nominees of the evening were looking their best as they headed into the hall:Laura Linney, up for "Time Stands Still"; Christopher Walken, star of  "A Behanding in Spokane";  grand dame of theater Angela Lansbury, nominated for "A Little Night Music"; Kelsey Grammer, honored for "La Cage aux Folles"; and the evening's host and "Promises, Promises" nominee Sean Hayes. "Glee" was well represented, with star Lea Michelle, who appeared on Broadway in 2006 in "Spring Awakening," prepared to sing "Don't Rain on My Parade"; Matthew Morrison, who will sing "All I Need is a Girl"; Vocal Adrenaline's Jonathan Groff, another "Spring Awakening" alum, who says he'll next be appearing in "Mousetrap" in London; and Idina Menzel, Tony winner for "Wicked" who was seen recently on "Glee" arrived sans husband Taye Diggs." read more

(wwd)Luxury Counterfeiters Found Guilty

"A federal jury in Richmond found two New York importers guilty in a landmark case involving more than $100 million in counterfeit luxury goods. In one of the largest luxury counterfeit goods prosecutions in U.S. history, Chong Lam and Siu Yung Chan, also known as Joyce Chan, were each convicted of one count of conspiracy to traffic in counterfeit goods imported from China, two counts of trafficking in counterfeit handbags, wallets, purses and carry-on bags and two counts of illegally smuggling counterfeit goods in the U.S. A third defendant, Eric Yuen, was found not guilty of the same charges. The three were charged in January 2008. Evidence presented at trial showed that Lam and Chan, along with their co-conspirators, operated an extensive international manufacturing, import and wholesale counterfeit goods business. Lam and Chan were controlling officers of at least 13 different companies in the U.S. and overseas, and were running at least eight separate factories that produced counterfeit bags, according to the Department of Justice." read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Proenza Schouler Resort 2010

"After a recent trip to India, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez thought about what their Proenza Schouler girl needs for resort — which went beyond the expected saris and rich embellishments. So they chose to use Bandhani tie-dyeing techniques and sweet tie closures rather than buttons and hardware. The cool tie-dye looks range from easy Ts to lightweight dresses, while textured gold dresses are rich and luxe. And beachy Baja tops and tailored coats make the perfect toppers."

Urban Zen 2010

"After years of talking up in-season shows, Donna Karan finally practiced what she’s been preaching on Thursday. Her first Urban Zen presentation, held in the rooftop garden of the Greenwich Street building that houses the line’s store, featured 13 models in sexy, draped pieces, grounded in T-shirt dressing from the collection that’s currently in stores. “For me, Urban Zen is about bringing it to the consumer,” said Karan. “I wanted to give an immediate experience.”

Neiman Rating Raised, Barneys Unchanged

"Neiman Marcus Inc. got a thumbs-up from one ratings agency Thursday, while Barneys New York Inc. received a less flattering assessment from another.

"Moody’s Investors Service upgraded Neiman’s corporate family rating to “B3” from “Caa1” based on a “solid recovery in credit metrics,” while Standard & Poor’s Ratings Service took Barneys off CreditWatch without changing its “CCC” rating. However, S&P lowered its issue-level rating on Barneys to “CCC-minus” from “CCC” and lowered its recovery rating to 5 from 3 “based on our view that the company’s valuation has diminished over the past few years.” Barneys was placed on CreditWatch with positive implications on April 22. “The negative rating outlook reflects our concern that Barneys’ capital structure is unsustainable and that some sort of restructuring is a likely outcome,” wrote S&P credit analyst David Kuntz. He cited the store’s “weak liquidity position, participation in the narrow luxury segment, small store base, absence of a chief executive officer since mid-2008, highly leveraged capital structure and thin cash flow protection measures” in his research note explaining the action." read more

Uma Thurman Named Ambassador to Key to the Cure

"Uma Thurman and Donna Karan are teaming to combat women’s cancer. Saks Fifth Avenue and The Breast Cancer Research Foundation tapped the actress as this year’s ambassador to the retailer’s annual Key to the Cure initiative. Karan designed the limited edition T-shirt that will be sold as part of the campaign and benefits a slew of organizations devoted to the fight against cancer. It’s a cause that Thurman and Karan take very seriously. Both have known women affected by the disease, and Thurman was particularly inspired to step up her efforts in the fight against it when she attended the Susan G. Komen Race for the Cure in Central Park in September and shot the starting gun. “It was amazing to see so many women, both survivors and nonsurvivors alike, united in this effort,” said Thurman. “When [Key to the Cure] was presented to me, I thought, ‘This is something I want to make the time to do, something that matters a lot to me.’” Thurman joins past celebrity ambassadors including Gwyneth Paltrow, Charlize Theron, Hilary Swank, Heidi Klum, Glenn Close, Renée Zellweger and Nicole Kidman. Like them, Thurman is to appear in a national public service announcement sporting the Karan-designed T-shirt, which will be placed in September and October issues of fashion and lifestyle publications." read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Resort Collections 2011:

Marc Jacobs Resort 2011

"The buoyant spirit of wealthy beach towns comes through at Marc Jacobs, where resort is flush with girlish quirks. He works a pastel palette in jumbo tweeds, webby knits and dresses with frothy, floral appliqués, all of which are feminine and flirty to the extreme in the case of full skirts — some midlength, some microsocopic — that kick out at the rear. And on the subdued side are A-line skirts, shorts suits and tipped knits for the playful preppy."

Stella McCartney Resort 2011

"For Stella McCartney, resort is not a question of show versus showroom, but rather how to temporarily transplant her collection to New York and upstage everyone else with a presentation-as-garden-party. This season, the venue was Gavin Brown’s enterprise staged with vignettes: models playing chess, dancing to an a cappella group, posing in a faux photoshoot (with real NYC photographers cycling through), etc. It all served as a charming, if at times chaotic, backdrop for snappy floral dresses, sporty shorts and jackets done with scalloped edges, McCartney’s signature tailored blazers, lace tops and cropped trapeze trenches. “We just try to have a bit of fun,” said McCartney, shrugging off her inspiration as “flowers, an English garden in New York.”

(wwd)Talbots Reduces Loss in 1st Qtr.

"The Talbots Inc. on Tuesday posted a first-quarter loss that was narrower than a year ago and smaller than analysts expected, but shares fell 9.5 percent on the retailer’s anemic second-quarter forecast and questionable inventory position. For the three months ended May 1, the net loss was $4.4 million, or 8 cents a diluted share, compared with a year-ago loss of $23.6 million, or 44 cents. On an adjusted basis, income from continuing operations, excluding one-time charges related to restructuring and its merger with BPW Acquisition Corp., was $21.7 million, or 38 cents a share, 22 cents above the 16 cents expected, on average, by analysts polled by Yahoo Finance. Sales rose 4.7 percent to $320.7 million from $306.2 million as same-store sales increased 2.4 percent, full-price selling was up 21 percent and markdown selling dropped 31 percent. Referring to these numbers, Trudy Sullivan, president and chief executive officer, told analysts on a morning conference call, “After 11 quarters of a year-over-year sales decline, we have turned the corner to positive sales growth.” read more

(US)JWoww Debuts "Filthy Couture"

We've been waiting (not quite at the edges of our seats) since we saw J-Woww at NY Fashion week in September, hoping that maybe it was serving as inspiration for something wearable, but now we're not quite sure..."At Sunday night’s MTV Movie Awards, Jenni “J-Woww” Farley wasn’t shy about showcasing her latest project, clothing line Filthy Couture. The Jersey Shore star stepped onto the red carpet rocking a lacy pink minidress from the new collection, telling PEOPLE of the revealing plunge-front look, “The dress has a thousand Swarovski crystals. Farley describes her personal style as “sexy gothic,” a look that will anchor Filthy Couture, which is set to debut this July on the heels of her line of made-to-order tops. “I’m more like rocker-edgy, but very sexy,” she said. “Definitely all my dresses and bathing suits and my jeans and shirts will be like that.” And is there such thing as too risqué for the 21-year-old “guidette”? Said J-Woww, “I keep it sexy classy. I won’t go to porn star sexy. I won’t go that far.” For more info on Filthy Couture, visit jwoww.com." read more

(wwd)Google Exec Touts YouTube as Brand Builder

"One of the biggest brand building mediums today is video, said Kevin Kells, national industry director of consumer packaged goods for Google Inc., which owns YouTube. It tells a story and creates an emotional connection between a brand and its customers. “The very nature of the medium forces you to be engaged with it,” he said, referring to clicking, searching, sharing and commenting. “Video is nothing more than sight, sound and motion storytelling. It’s a really powerful storytelling device.”  In the last month, 77 percent of Americans online watched a video. Only five years old, YouTube garnered 2 billion views a day in May. Every 60 days, more minutes of video are uploaded than the top three broadcast channels produced in 60 years, he said. YouTube is the second-largest search engine in the world after Google, and a quarter of YouTube sessions contain at least one search opportunity for brands, Kells said. Companies can advertise on the home page, next to video that’s important to customers, or they can create brand channels and archive company video." read more